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7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes) Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the 7.3 Liter In-Direct Injection Navistar engines.

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Old 11-17-2011, 07:34 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Heater not hot??

I have a 93' F350 w/7.3 non turbo,manual tranny,and the heater will not get hot. Blows out the defrost and vents and floor but only luke warm. Even this summer would not get hot. Have replaced the thermostat twice from Oreilly?

Replaced 1 of the vacuum lines that was broken, actually a hard plastic white line that the mice chewed up and spliced in a piece of vacuum line?

Have not checked the heater core yet

Replaced the belt as well.

Also have a bad squealing noise from the belt or pulleys?

thanks
rose88
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Old 11-17-2011, 08:06 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by rose88 View Post
I have a 93' F350 w/7.3 non turbo,manual tranny,and the heater will not get hot. Blows out the defrost and vents and floor but only luke warm. Even this summer would not get hot. Have replaced the thermostat twice from Oreilly?

Replaced 1 of the vacuum lines that was broken, actually a hard plastic white line that the mice chewed up and spliced in a piece of vacuum line?

Have not checked the heater core yet

Replaced the belt as well.

Also have a bad squealing noise from the belt or pulleys?

thanks
rose88
Squealing is probably an idler pulley going bad or possibly your vaccuum pump going out.

Check the heater core for flow of water through it and for the air flow. Also check coolant level.
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Old 11-17-2011, 08:49 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Check the temperature of the 2 hoses at the heater plenum if they are the same then the coolant is flowing....... If you had a vacuum problem I would start there......but it only does the doors and direction of the air. There is an adjustable heat cable inside the glove box.........ensure it is locked together.

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Old 11-17-2011, 09:35 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Coolant level is ok, I will check the other out asap.

thanks again
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1993 F-350 2wd, Reg Cab, Flat Bed, Short Wheelbase, 7.3 Non Turbo, 5 Speed Manual, 4.10 Gear

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Old 11-17-2011, 10:45 AM   #5 (permalink)
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OK checked the heater core and flows great both ways, flushed with water pressure both ways. Checked all vacuum and doors are moving accordingly. Also noticed that on vent it gets warmer than def or floor?

I can turn the temp selector to cold and it gets cold and slowly go to hot and it gets warm and that's it?

Def doesn't blow as strong as floor or vent?

Cable is secure behind glove box.

Also noticed that there is very hot air coming from under the heater box where the passengers feet would be, GOOD HOT air, could there possibly be something in there?

Gasket leaking?

Reason I ask is that when this truck set for about a year, I put new batteries in and fuel filter and solenoid under hood (because it wouldn't shut off), and a snake came out of the engine and it set another 30 days with the hood up before I worked on it again, LOL

Anyway the wipers are not working like they should either and that makes me wonder if there is a nest or something in this truck that would cause the heat not to work properly?

thanks again
rose88
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1999 F-350 4wd, Crew Cab, Dually, Lariat Pkg, 7.3 Powerstroke, Automatic, RTV Torque Converter, Hypertech Tuner, 4.10 Gears, Clear L.E.D cab lights, L.E.D. tailights, 3rd brake light, headlights, Fender Markers.

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Old 11-17-2011, 01:44 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Check where the wipers are and see if a mouse built a nest or chewed any wires.
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Old 11-18-2011, 05:14 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Will check that as well.

With the heater box getting hot I think maybe it could be a nest or some kind of blockage?

If I remember right this truck was doing this before it set up?

Both heater hoses are about the same temp, and it flows good.

Thanks again for your help. I will find it ,

may have to tear apart the dash but it will show up.
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1999 F-350 4wd, Crew Cab, Dually, Lariat Pkg, 7.3 Powerstroke, Automatic, RTV Torque Converter, Hypertech Tuner, 4.10 Gears, Clear L.E.D cab lights, L.E.D. tailights, 3rd brake light, headlights, Fender Markers.

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Old 01-01-2012, 05:32 PM   #8 (permalink)
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have you fixed the problem. My truck does the same thing. Same white line was eaten into as well. The truck sat for two years with a turbo problem. I repurchased it from the prior owner because I could not stand to see the truck destroyed. Now I am the 3rd and 5th owner..Warm air but not hot.
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Old 01-02-2012, 08:00 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Not yet, Next step will be to remove dash and start looking in there?

I have flushed the heater core and its good,new thermostat, just seems like if you could turn the heater control knob farther it would get hotter?

Will post when I find something.
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Old 01-02-2012, 09:04 AM   #10 (permalink)
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blend door failure or blend door actuator failure or blend door actuator vac line failure
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Old 01-02-2012, 10:07 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
new thermostat
Quote:
Have replaced the thermostat twice from Oreilly?

There is only one thermostat for our engines...... Ford or IH
CAUTION:
The specified/required thermostat does not contain an internal bypass, since the bypass is located in the cylinder block. Whenever the thermostat is replaced, it is mandatory that only Motorcraft E5TZ-8575-C or Navistar 1807974C94 thermostat be installed.
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Old 01-02-2012, 10:35 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I had the exact same problem with my 1994 f250. The problem ended up being that pencil fell down the defrost louver on the dash and blocked the heat directional door from closing completely. I managed to remove a cover and reach in with two fingers and got it out. Now the heat control dial moves its full motion and I have plenty of hot air.
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Old 01-16-2012, 07:52 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I just replaced my thermostat with a Navistar one. The one I put in two weeks ago was a stant. I am not like others that post that you need to use a OEM themostat and not give examples of why. I am telling you from experience. Get the orielly thermostat out of the truck and use a OEM. My truck now runs warmer and the temp gauges shows movwment when the thermostat opens, also I have warmer heat. I still have to put cardboard to get the best heat but the thermostat was part of the problem.

UPDATE I have since found a leak in the brake booster, after changing the booster and stoping the vacuum leak I now have heat.
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Old 01-17-2012, 01:00 AM   #14 (permalink)
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there is a vacume actuator under the dash (dash doesnt need to be removed to access) its close to the center but a little closer to the ps. my truck is doing the same but when i manualy switch it by hand the heat gets hot
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Old 04-01-2012, 08:49 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by octoberfarm View Post
I had the exact same problem with my 1994 f250. The problem ended up being that pencil fell down the defrost louver on the dash and blocked the heat directional door from closing completely. I managed to remove a cover and reach in with two fingers and got it out. Now the heat control dial moves its full motion and I have plenty of hot air.

BINGO!! That was it had a pencil not letting the door close. Wow! what a job getting to it. I took the whole dash out working my way to the problem, but Hey, I got some good cleaning done while I was in there! LOL

And no Snake there!!!
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1993 F-350 2wd, Reg Cab, Flat Bed, Short Wheelbase, 7.3 Non Turbo, 5 Speed Manual, 4.10 Gear

1999 F-350 4wd, Crew Cab, Dually, Lariat Pkg, 7.3 Powerstroke, Automatic, RTV Torque Converter, Hypertech Tuner, 4.10 Gears, Clear L.E.D cab lights, L.E.D. tailights, 3rd brake light, headlights, Fender Markers.

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