The the Napa(Autolite?) glow plugs went out in our '91 SuperDuty tow truck last week and I refuse to pay any more for them than I have to!(Been using ether to start it the last couple days-cold here-and yes the block heater is always plugged in) I was doing a lot of searching on here about what the best type of glow plugs are and it's obvious the Motocraft ZD-9s are. However, we don't have an Autozone around here and Oreily's has them for $8.99 which ain't bad but still isn't $2.99! If someone here can still get them locally for $2.99 each then I will gladly reimburse you for the cost of a set+shipping.
Thank you, Daniel
Last edited by DanMans5.9CTD : 01-22-2008 at 11:36 PM.
The $2.99 days are gone sorry to say........ $8.99 is still a good price, you can try an.........
IH Internation dealer for: IH 1819649C1
Beru/Motorcraft # ZD-9..... Ford part # F2TZ-12A342-A
__________________ http://photos.thedieselstop.com/show...0/ppuser/28329
93 F250 7.3 IDI S/C XLT 4X4 E40D 3.55LS, Captains chairs, Tutone Mocha, Leer 48" Hiboy cap, FR & RR hitches, full DeeZee running boards. Factory ordered/delivered Jan 93 has 160K+, it's basically a stock truck with all the Ford options, just no disc player.
Toys: 26'Jayco FK TT, 18'Sylvan Pro Fish.
I'll just digging around or settle for 8 bux apiece...... that's better than 12 bux we paid for the last ones that lasted about 3 years.
A mechanic told my buddy that if we put a pan heater on it that it combined with the block heater would heat the block up enough that we wouldn't hardly need the glow plugs, is there any truth to this?
I highly doubt it. In Texas, maybe. Definitely not in Minot, ND. It is waaayy too cold up there for that.
No matter how hot you get the coolant AND oil, you still won't reach anywhere close to the same temperature in the combustion chamber as a glowplug.
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1994 Ford F250 4x4: 7.3L IDI factory turbo, supercab longbed, E4OD *DEAD*. ZF5 swap,Dana 60 swap, GM 14 bolt rear w/ 4.10s, 4" exhaust from stock downpipe back to a 5" stack, IP maxed=1100 degrees max pulling uphill, "modified" wastegate=11psi max,99+ F450SD cab/chassis leaf springs in rear
--motor/trans sold--
2000 VW Jetta TDI = 48+mpg
1997 Dodge 3500: 2WD Cab & Chassis, 12V Cummins, 47RE Automatic, Dana 80, 194,000mi. Parting out.
1989 12V VE Cummins out of Chevy C60? at the machine shop...going into the Ford.
If you use the Beru's, the block heater for 3 hours prior to starting and 10-30 oil it will start down to-40F every time. That is provided the starter, batteries and fuel system are up to scratch and you use the CORRECT starting sequence.
To start turn key on press fuel pedal to the floor, then if above 30*F hold at 1/2 throttle, if below 30*F hold at 3/4-full throttle start engine. Once started release the fuel pedal to the fast idle setting or feather pedal to keep running.
__________________ http://photos.thedieselstop.com/show...0/ppuser/28329
93 F250 7.3 IDI S/C XLT 4X4 E40D 3.55LS, Captains chairs, Tutone Mocha, Leer 48" Hiboy cap, FR & RR hitches, full DeeZee running boards. Factory ordered/delivered Jan 93 has 160K+, it's basically a stock truck with all the Ford options, just no disc player.
Toys: 26'Jayco FK TT, 18'Sylvan Pro Fish.
I wasn't aware that there is a CORRECT starting procedure for these things.
It's been hovering between -5/-10 to 10 above at night for the last week around here. As for testing the glow plugs to find the failed ones, some quick searching the other night brought up the continuity light tester method. Removing the wires from the gps, hooking the the test light to the battery and touching the top of each injector and see if the light lights up. Is this a fairly accurate method?
Any other opinions/facts on the pan heater theory? I do understand that a pan heater is gonna get the oil warm along with the block but I'm doubting it's ability to get the combustion chamber hot enough to fire without the gps.
Nope, not a baser. Native. Born and raised on a farm and been married for close to 4 years with an awesome 1 year old boy. We live on the edge of town and I work at Northern Bottling full-time. I'm co-owner of D & D Towing & Recovery and do my part when I can.
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