Went to Indiana last week towing a 33 ft. 5th wheel gross weight 14500
I was on the Ohio turnpike when the temp guage would start to climb on heavy load 65mph in o.d. Was not searching for lower gear. If long steady climb temp would go from al of normal on guage to the last line in normal range. It did not go past & no other lights. I just keep eye on it and made it to Elkhart. Stayed 7 days drove all around and temp ran normal never above middle on temp guage. Now return trip I started back and same thing only worse now every so often same thing only eng temp light came on but as soon as i crest the hill and start down temp would drop and light would go out. Also if i came to toll booth or to get fuel as soon as i slow down temp drops to mid point. I did notice that if i keep it at 60 mph with od off rpms running 2700 the temp would hold steady. Every looks good in cooling system my though would be fan clutch or termostate. Sorry
for such long read but more info maybe better to find problem. If fan cluch where to get cheaper I called advancedand was $170.00 Ouch!!
Thanks For any advice
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94 F350 7.3 idi turbo crew cab 4x4 8 foot bed dually dark green custom 114,000 mile wit 4.10 rear end and E4OD 14,000 l.b.5th wheel 96 F250 72,000 miles extended cab white with 351 cid and E4od 2 wheel drive single wheel and 96 Explorer Sport white 4.0 66,000 miles
14500 GVW trailer would be a slight struggle on hills, with A/C on the temps would rise as speed decreased and airflow decreased. Do the fan test on my gallery... What was the CGVW of the truck and trailer. Do you have an extra cooler on the trans and a temp guage.
__________________ http://photos.thedieselstop.com/show...0/ppuser/28329
93 F250 7.3 IDI S/C XLT 4X4 E40D 3.55LS, Captains chairs, Tutone Mocha, Leer 48" Hiboy cap, FR & RR hitches, full DeeZee running boards. Factory ordered/delivered Jan 93 has 160K+, it's basically a stock truck with all the Ford options, just no disc player.
Toys: 26'Jayco FK TT, 18'Sylvan Pro Fish.
First thing to do is STOP RELYING ON THAT IDIOT GAUGE, and get a real mechanial gauge. Get a mirror and look to see if the thermocouple coil/spring on the front of the fan clutch is dirty/covered with grease. Clean it off with brake cleaner spray. Then if you're still having a problem go ahead and replace that fan clutch. Even though they seem to have sufficient drag/resistance to spin, they can be shot/bad/kaputt/Autolite. Autozone has the lowest price that I've found for a rebuilt/lifetime warranty for $149.00 [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif[/img] You'll need to rent or buy the special tool for the fan clutch nut. It's a big sucker. Check the wrench on fan clutchh nut BEFORE you get all the home and find that the counter idiot gave you the little nut wrench [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif[/img]. Put a piece of cardboard between the fan and the rad BEFORE you spin the fan off and it drops and bangs up the rad fins. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img]Baja [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img]
Now, THAT sounds like the voice of experience! Did you have to do this repair under the shade of a cactus somewhere in the middle of the Baja peninsula? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
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If you don't have anything to do, get a used diesel and a camper!
Truck 1: 1985 F350 dually 4WD 6.9 diesel crew cab auto with 83k original miles. C6 trans, 4.10 rear end. Mods are Banks Turbo, US Gear overdrive, 45gal rear tank, hydroboost brakes, additional leaf springs all around, Hellwig airbags, rear sway bar, GM glowplug controller, fuel Koalescer. 235/85 R16 Michelin XB Rib radials. 11ft.6in Vacationeer cabover camper, TorkLift tiedowns.
Truck 2: 1988 F250 7.3, C6 auto, 2WD w/3.55 limited slip rear axle, Banks Sidewinder Turbo, Gear Vendors overdrive, Utility box, hydraulic lift gate, lumber rack.
Auto: 1987 MBZ 300D Turbo 3.0 Liter 6 cylinder engine. 205K miles. Working on all the "little things" that previous owner neglected. Putting in wvo tank.
If I were going to change the fan clutch (in a few weeks) I would go with he lower temp kick in. I have been through 2 changes of the autozone one and it has made no differance. It is coming on just a little late, So I plan on spending the extra money and get the modified one. Also, I just retarded my timing a little and it helped a lot. Just an idea.
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1990 F-350 Dually 4X4 CC Rebuilt Turbo and NEW 7.3L DAS engine, rebuilt rear diff, Reman E4OD Stage 1 injectors Stage 1 pump Baumann recal kit and TDC for E4OD dead trans again...
2004 F-350 4X4 CC 6.0 PSD
2004 Wilderness 320dbhs TT
The fan clutch is from MSTech. Someone here will post info. Several use it, or seach to previous posts. The fan clutch comes on at 210 instead of 230 (not sure about the temp #'s sorry). Starts cooling sooner. Lots of praise about them. I called and they were not real helpfull, but they got the part I want... http://www.mstechinc.com
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1990 F-350 Dually 4X4 CC Rebuilt Turbo and NEW 7.3L DAS engine, rebuilt rear diff, Reman E4OD Stage 1 injectors Stage 1 pump Baumann recal kit and TDC for E4OD dead trans again...
2004 F-350 4X4 CC 6.0 PSD
2004 Wilderness 320dbhs TT
Discount Auto Parts (like Au Zo say on there signs) are exactly that. i would rather spend a few bucks more and buy an OEM from Ford or a supplier of the oems, than a lesser unit. last thing i want to do is watch radiator fluid spill all over the road on a nice long climb. ask a reputable shop where they buy there parts, and the answer you will likely here is Napa or the stealership. the last thing i EVER want to do in my shop is replace a part a second time when i bought an "cheap" part. not worth it to me. i dont even buy inexpensive parts for my truck. yes Au Zo sells motorcraft glow plugs, and Motorcraft aftermarket supplier oil filters, but thats the most i would ever buy from them. my local IP rebuilder sells me Motorcraft or Bosch's for less than i can but Autolites for. try a factory unit, and see what happens. i mean look at the thermostat the discount chains want to sell you, we know what happens when you run them. the Napa t-stat i installed in my truck was a reboxed Int. part, for $4.00 less than my Ford parts supplier..
Try using chain vice grips to remove the fan clutch! Worked great for me and didnt round the nut. No renting those stupid wrenches that dont fit when ya get home. I think thats actually the only use for those vice grips i have found.
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85 F350 6.9 T-19 flatbed
straight pipe drw dana 70
4.10s 15 leafsprings per side
boxed frame
1100 cca batts
(sold)84 F350 7.3 T-19 XL dually
straight pipe 1100 cca batts
dana 70HD 4.10s
homemade cowl induction
powerstroke oil filter
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