Hi guys,
My truck has been running great but just started having trouble starting.
I recently replaced the glow plugs and a return line kit, after that it ran like a new truck.
Over the last week it started having trouble starting, I have to crank it three or four times and pump the gas pedal to get it to start.
Once it warms up it starts on the first try.
I found a wire on top of the fuel filter burnt in two, I replaced the wire but am leaking fuel around where the cap goes.
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1988 Ford F250 Lariat XLT extra cab
7.3 IDI with 3 speed C6 automatic Transmission.
US Gear-dual range auxiliary trans. #170-48080
That's the fuel heater, and it's a fairly common spot for fuel leaks and air intrusion (the reason it's hard to start first thing.) There are 2 (IIRC) O-rings around the beige plastic part underneath the filter head. Remove the filter element, fuel inlet and outlet, and any hoses and wiring, then unbolt the filter head. The heater is held in by the filter nipple, remove that and you can pull the heater out. Install new O-ring(s), lube with Vaseline, and install the heater. Assemble everything in reverse order.
1990 Jeep Wrangler Sahara, 4.2l, 5-speed, Dana 30/35 w/3.07s (for now!), 33x10.5x15 BFG Mud-Terrain KM2s on 4" Rough Country springs. Engine being rebuilt after an awesome afternoon in the mud LOL
Thanks,
Dumb question but do I need to replace the heater or just the O rings?
Also, this cap came off the top, it was leaking around it. Where can I get a replacement?
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1988 Ford F250 Lariat XLT extra cab
7.3 IDI with 3 speed C6 automatic Transmission.
US Gear-dual range auxiliary trans. #170-48080
If the fuel is leaking around the beige part just replace the O-ring(s). If it's coming up through the beige part, you can try to seal it with epoxy or just replace the heater.
The part in your 2nd post is the fuel heater connector body, I highly doubt it's available separately. I'm pretty sure a 3/16" female spade terminal will work, you probably won't find them at Autozone or O'Reilly though.
1990 Jeep Wrangler Sahara, 4.2l, 5-speed, Dana 30/35 w/3.07s (for now!), 33x10.5x15 BFG Mud-Terrain KM2s on 4" Rough Country springs. Engine being rebuilt after an awesome afternoon in the mud LOL
Yep, that's the story. Unless the heater itself has cracked, which is entirely possible. Point is, that cap's job is not to keep fuel in, it's to keep dirt and other contaminants out of the plug. If you can afford it, it is prudent to keep a spare heater on hand in case it fails. (I don't have a spare any more, I'm running on it!) And it's nice to have on hand when you disassemble the filter head (I did it on-vehicle, actually, which makes it pretty simple) so that if the old one is broken, you have it to install.
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1992 F250 XLT 4x4 Super Cab 7.3 IDI E40D 3.55 ATS 088 4"R.C 360k
1982 MBZ 300SD W126 California model w/Sunroof, no EGR
you know, if the wire burned then the heater has shorted out internally, too. you don't need it unless it gets REALLY cold, but that's also when you want your truck to run the most...
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1992 F250 XLT 4x4 Super Cab 7.3 IDI E40D 3.55 ATS 088 4"R.C 360k
1982 MBZ 300SD W126 California model w/Sunroof, no EGR
Same issue on mine only it was the internal seals in the thermistate that had failled. replaced the heater and well damn, it works like a trick now.
__________________ New truck: 1988 F-350 1 ton dualy 2*4, 7.3L IDI Naturally Aspirated, Dual tanks with Camper package. Mods: Enhanced gauge cluster; Transmission temp, rear diff temp, coolant system pressure, Vacuum pressure, Fuel pressure, Crappy tire Air horn Kit, Raycor pre filter/water sep. All LED Dash lighting, thinking of adding an electric blower for mild boost.
Generator sets: Honda 3.5Kw (Fixed and running!) Onan 3.5Kw Electric/Remote electric Start. Remote start pannel made and hooked up, I love it!
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