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7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes) Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the 7.3 Liter In-Direct Injection Navistar engines.

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Old 01-05-2013, 04:02 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Help with rough starting

Hi guys,
My truck has been running great but just started having trouble starting.
I recently replaced the glow plugs and a return line kit, after that it ran like a new truck.

Over the last week it started having trouble starting, I have to crank it three or four times and pump the gas pedal to get it to start.
Once it warms up it starts on the first try.

I found a wire on top of the fuel filter burnt in two, I replaced the wire but am leaking fuel around where the cap goes.
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US Gear-dual range auxiliary trans. #170-48080
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Old 01-05-2013, 04:32 PM   #2 (permalink)
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That's the fuel heater, and it's a fairly common spot for fuel leaks and air intrusion (the reason it's hard to start first thing.) There are 2 (IIRC) O-rings around the beige plastic part underneath the filter head. Remove the filter element, fuel inlet and outlet, and any hoses and wiring, then unbolt the filter head. The heater is held in by the filter nipple, remove that and you can pull the heater out. Install new O-ring(s), lube with Vaseline, and install the heater. Assemble everything in reverse order.
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1991 F350 Lariat XLT, 7.3l, 5-speed, crew cab, SRW, 3.55, 2WD.

1990 Jeep Wrangler Sahara, in the process of a major overhaul/upgrade. OM617 on the horizon! Front & rear Dana 44s from a Wagoneer till I get some 1-ton axles built & narrowed, and eventually a front shackle reversal. Diesel YJ, bay-BEE, and not a cookie-cutter 4BT conversion!
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Old 01-05-2013, 05:06 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks,
Dumb question but do I need to replace the heater or just the O rings?
Also, this cap came off the top, it was leaking around it. Where can I get a replacement?
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1988 Ford F250 Lariat XLT extra cab
7.3 IDI with 3 speed C6 automatic Transmission.
US Gear-dual range auxiliary trans. #170-48080
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Old 01-05-2013, 07:51 PM   #4 (permalink)
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If the fuel is leaking around the beige part just replace the O-ring(s). If it's coming up through the beige part, you can try to seal it with epoxy or just replace the heater.

The part in your 2nd post is the fuel heater connector body, I highly doubt it's available separately. I'm pretty sure a 3/16" female spade terminal will work, you probably won't find them at Autozone or O'Reilly though.
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Check my lists of common part numbers in my photos! Updated often!

1991 F350 Lariat XLT, 7.3l, 5-speed, crew cab, SRW, 3.55, 2WD.

1990 Jeep Wrangler Sahara, in the process of a major overhaul/upgrade. OM617 on the horizon! Front & rear Dana 44s from a Wagoneer till I get some 1-ton axles built & narrowed, and eventually a front shackle reversal. Diesel YJ, bay-BEE, and not a cookie-cutter 4BT conversion!
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Old 01-05-2013, 08:44 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Use #12 and #14 Viton O-rings
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Old 01-05-2013, 08:58 PM   #6 (permalink)
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that cap isn't meant to be fuel-tight. re-use it.
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Old 01-05-2013, 09:00 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Thanks guys.
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Old 01-06-2013, 07:18 AM   #8 (permalink)
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that cap isn't meant to be fuel-tight. re-use it.
You think if I replace the O rings fuel will stop leaking from around this cap?
Thanks.
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US Gear-dual range auxiliary trans. #170-48080
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Old 01-06-2013, 08:12 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Yep, that's the story. Unless the heater itself has cracked, which is entirely possible. Point is, that cap's job is not to keep fuel in, it's to keep dirt and other contaminants out of the plug. If you can afford it, it is prudent to keep a spare heater on hand in case it fails. (I don't have a spare any more, I'm running on it!) And it's nice to have on hand when you disassemble the filter head (I did it on-vehicle, actually, which makes it pretty simple) so that if the old one is broken, you have it to install.
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Old 01-07-2013, 07:50 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Use #12 and #14 Viton O-rings
I'm looking online for the O-rings, when I look up #12 and #14 they have several diameters.

Does anyone know a part number?
Should I just take them out and try to match them up at the local Autozone?

Thanks
Dan
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US Gear-dual range auxiliary trans. #170-48080
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Old 01-07-2013, 11:25 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Dan here are the sizes of the o-rings you will need

#12
O.D. (outside diameter) is 1/2"
I.D. (inside diameter) is 3/8"
Width is 1/16"

#14
O.D. Is 5/8"
I.D. Is 1/2"
Width is 1/16"

And make sure you lubricate them with clean diesel or ATF when putting them in!
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Old 01-08-2013, 05:33 AM   #12 (permalink)
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you know, if the wire burned then the heater has shorted out internally, too. you don't need it unless it gets REALLY cold, but that's also when you want your truck to run the most...
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Old 01-08-2013, 06:15 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Hey guys,
Thanks so much for your help.
Dan
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US Gear-dual range auxiliary trans. #170-48080
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Old 01-08-2013, 11:46 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Same issue on mine only it was the internal seals in the thermistate that had failled. replaced the heater and well damn, it works like a trick now.
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Old 01-12-2013, 07:13 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Mine has leaked on me multiple times so so i just removed all components and pluged the hole. No problems yet
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