I was headed to a buddy's house last night and my radio cut off and my headlights got bright for a few seconds then everything went back to normal. This happened 2 or 3 more times. I noticed that my volt gauge was jumping up above what it normally is. I just put a new voltage regulator on it (again) today. Still having the same issue. Could it be the alternator? (brand new) I need to get this fixed ASAP. Any help is great. Thanks guys!!
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1989 F-250 4X4 C-6 7.3 IDI, 4.10 SRW, Cobra 148GTL, 4ft bed mounted whips, 12" Powerbass sub, 600W Powerbass amp, Sony Headunit, GPC override(thanks M.L.S.C), Factory Ford aluminum rims from OBS PSD, 4" exhaust, no soupbowl, B&M shift kit
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1992 F350 Crew Cab 4x4 7.3l IDI E4OD No Turbo
1993 F350 Crew Cab 4x4 7.3l IDI E4OD No Turbo
1990 F250 Super Cab 2x4 7.3l IDI E4OD Utility bed
1987 E250 Quadravan 4x4 6.9 IDI C6 Banks Turbo, Gearvendor, and U.S. Gear Exhaust Brake
ok i JUST had this problem... if you remember i post regaurding a no charge from my alt. replaced volt reg also.
Ended up replacing the main power lead from the alt. Even though the wire looked fine. Replaced that and now it charges like it should and i don't have any surges of voltage. (or lack there of) Just make sure you replace it with an adequate wire.
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7.3 IDI F-350 4x4 1990 150k miles
-Custom: '92 interior; '04 Hydroboost brake system; Volt/Temp/Oil Pressure/Oil temp/Trans temp/Boost/Pyro meters; Banks Sidewinder Turbo into 4" glasspack and dual 4.25" Stacks
-Reman'd: Heavy Duty E4OD and Billet Converter; Transfer Case; Water pump; Power Steering pump; Steering Box; Denso Starter
-New: Brakes; Engine seals and oil pan; Oil pump; RUST-FREE Cab and Bed
-Pro Comp "Holley Red style" electric fuel pump
-Dual 30micron to 2micron filter system... WMO WATF! Free Fuel!!
-3" Body Lift
-Fresh under coating on frame No more face full of rust under the truck!!
-16x10 Eagle Alloy 186 with 33's
-8ft snow plow
ok i JUST had this problem... if you remember i post regaurding a no charge from my alt. replaced volt reg also.
Ended up replacing the main power lead from the alt. Even though the wire looked fine. Replaced that and now it charges like it should and i don't have any surges of voltage. (or lack there of) Just make sure you replace it with an adequate wire.
OK I'll look into that. Thanks. It's very intermitten and is one of those hard things to track down. Only happens occasionally. I was thinking possible short?? I would have thought that if something was wrong with the main power lead on the Alt. it wouldn't charge enough insted of over charging and surging the voltage..? Not a correct assumption?
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1989 F-250 4X4 C-6 7.3 IDI, 4.10 SRW, Cobra 148GTL, 4ft bed mounted whips, 12" Powerbass sub, 600W Powerbass amp, Sony Headunit, GPC override(thanks M.L.S.C), Factory Ford aluminum rims from OBS PSD, 4" exhaust, no soupbowl, B&M shift kit
I was headed to a buddy's house last night and my radio cut off and my headlights got bright for a few seconds then everything went back to normal. This happened 2 or 3 more times. I noticed that my volt gauge was jumping up above what it normally is. I just put a new voltage regulator on it (again) today. Still having the same issue. Could it be the alternator? (brand new) I need to get this fixed ASAP. Any help is great. Thanks guys!!
A good battery will seldom go over 15.9 to 16.2 volts till it goes bad then it will get real high. A bad connection (ground on block) or + on the batt. it's self and a bad regulator will do what you described. A good regulator will hold at the correct voltage but if the alt. gets a bad signal and thinks the battery is low it will charge harder till it get's the correct voltage back to it. thats what the wiring to the alt. is critical. When you finish checking the wiring make sure you don't have a problem at the solonoid where the hot sources come from and batt. cables and be sure to check the grounding on the block. I would guess you might have fried another regulator so be carefull there also. The Chinese just dont build them like we used to I guess. It dont help to shop around the parts store's anymore, you are going to get Chinese where ever you buy it unless you go to the ford place and I can't afford them anymore.
checking the wiring make sure you don't have a problem at the solonoid where the hot sources come from and batt. cables and be sure to check the grounding on the block.
There is a solenoid on the hot lead of the alternator?
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7.3 IDI F-350 4x4 1990 150k miles
-Custom: '92 interior; '04 Hydroboost brake system; Volt/Temp/Oil Pressure/Oil temp/Trans temp/Boost/Pyro meters; Banks Sidewinder Turbo into 4" glasspack and dual 4.25" Stacks
-Reman'd: Heavy Duty E4OD and Billet Converter; Transfer Case; Water pump; Power Steering pump; Steering Box; Denso Starter
-New: Brakes; Engine seals and oil pan; Oil pump; RUST-FREE Cab and Bed
-Pro Comp "Holley Red style" electric fuel pump
-Dual 30micron to 2micron filter system... WMO WATF! Free Fuel!!
-3" Body Lift
-Fresh under coating on frame No more face full of rust under the truck!!
-16x10 Eagle Alloy 186 with 33's
-8ft snow plow
Got it fixed and yeah It fried the voltage reg. Off to get a free one from Advanced. Thanks guys. Oh, it was the positive connection on one of the batteries. I checked it I don't know how many times. Can't believe I missed it. Oh well
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1989 F-250 4X4 C-6 7.3 IDI, 4.10 SRW, Cobra 148GTL, 4ft bed mounted whips, 12" Powerbass sub, 600W Powerbass amp, Sony Headunit, GPC override(thanks M.L.S.C), Factory Ford aluminum rims from OBS PSD, 4" exhaust, no soupbowl, B&M shift kit
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HELP...voltage problem
Linear Mode
