high water temp climbing hills at highway speed no-load
Hi guys longtime listener 1st time user. I'm trying to figure out why my temps risin climbing hills at highway speed. My timings right, ambient temp 70 to 100, new water pump, good antifreeze, good oil, stock exhaust, 269000 mi. I'd appreciate it if you guys have any suggestions
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7.3 IDI turbo E4OD dana60 mono beam front 10.25 floating rear
Re: high water temp climbing hills at highway speed no-load
What are your water temps? If they are under 230* and you are pushing it pretty hard, you are probably okay. Do you hear your fan clutch kicking in? Need some more details. If you don't have a numbered guage with actual temp readings, don't pay attention to the idiot guage. Horrible sensor. If you can give us some readings, we can help you out more.
Mike, even with Bad HG's, my truck still didn't have troubles with keeping its temp under 230*. Scotty
Re: high water temp climbing hills at highway speed no-load
[ QUOTE ]
Hi guys longtime listener 1st time user. I'm trying to figure out why my temps risin climbing hills at highway speed. My timings right, ambient temp 70 to 100, new water pump, good antifreeze, good oil, stock exhaust, 269000 mi. I'd appreciate it if you guys have any suggestions
[/ QUOTE ]
You've probably got the WRONG thermostat in there. This is one of the few things that YOU MUST BUY FROM A FORD STEALERSHIP of a IH dealer. I've heard that some autoparts stores are now carring the correct part, but I'll believe it when I see it with my own eyes. If it looks like every other car thermostat that you've ever installed, IT'S THE WRONG ONE!!!! Someone will point you to a photo of the correct part soon. there is also the 'Little Steel Ball' to deal with.
The first place I'd look is at the thermostat. The PO might have used a regular one from the Autoparts Store. WRONG THING TO DO!!! These engines MUST use one of these: Motorcraft E5TZ-8575-C or Navistar 1807945-C1 thermostat
Also thermostat number 1807974c94 is the current updated part #.
There is also check ball that allows air to escape from the block while holding back A/F flow until the tstat opens.
CAUTION:
The specified thermostat does not contain an internal bypass,
since the bypass is located in the upper side of the thermostat housing. You'll need to take off the upper thermostat housing and clean out the cavity that the 'little steel ball' sits in. There is a cork o-ring that holds the ball in there. Be very careful not to damage it. There should be an opening into the upper neck area. As I understand it, the normal pressure of coolant flow will push the steel ball up to block off the opening into the upper neck, but if the engine is off the ball will drop but still allow any trapped air to escape thru the upper neck area.
CAUTION:
Check the new thermostat before installing it for correct opening temperature. Before suspending in boiling water, with a flashlight check where the rubber and the flat metal flange meet for bad seal.
Tstat starts opening barely at 180-192f, fully open 200-212f.
You're gonna need to buy more of the correct type of antifreeze while you're there. Prestone - in a black bottle with purple trim, 2 gal minumum. This is the first and least expensive place to start looking for cooling system problems. Next would be the fan clutch. Sprat simple green on the thermocouple spring on the front of the fan clutch and be sure it is clean and free of grease and be sure it stays that way. If clutch is still a suspect, replace it, but it's a spendy puppie $150-ish. If you're still having problems replace that radiator core with a new 4-row or a new 5-row core if you can afford it. If you're still having problems....sell the truck [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img]Baja
Re: high water temp climbing hills at highway speed no-load
Might check my photos for the Napa one. The part #'s listed in the comments section.
Pete and I had a conversation about stock use on em a while ago and never got around to reporting back on the t-stat performance. I have had it installed for some time now and have drove the ole Beef like I stole her and have had no problems with the Napa thermostat yet.
I don't have an IH dealer close and refuse to pay stealership prices if I can get something that will work for less.
My .02
Welcome to the basement.
Ron [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]
Goldie 1990 F-350 Custom 4x4 C/C DRW conversion. 7.3L Banks non-waste gated turbo, ZF-5 with 4" custom Exhaust complimenting a RDT venturi system, Autometer Pyro and boost 2 gauge pillarpod and your standard compliment of mechanical gauges. Clutch pedal Heim joint mod.
The Beef 1989 F-350 Lariat C/C DRW 7.3L N/A, ZF-5. Clutch pedal heim joint mod. Original price $500.00.
Currently slated for an extreme makeover ground up restoration.
Mater 2007 F-250 Lariat 4x4 6.9L IDI, T-19 trans pushing a 7'6" Western plow. Completely assembled from the tires up!
Re: high water temp climbing hills at highway speed no-load
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Hi guys longtime listener 1st time user. I'm trying to figure out why my temps risin climbing hills at highway speed. My timings right, ambient temp 70 to 100, new water pump, good antifreeze, good oil, stock exhaust, 269000 mi. I'd appreciate it if you guys have any suggestions
[/ QUOTE ]
You've probably got the WRONG thermostat in there. This is one of the few things that YOU MUST BUY FROM A FORD STEALERSHIP of a IH dealer. I've heard that some autoparts stores are now carring the correct part, but I'll believe it when I see it with my own eyes. If it looks like every other car thermostat that you've ever installed, IT'S THE WRONG ONE!!!! Someone will point you to a photo of the correct part soon. there is also the 'Little Steel Ball' to deal with.
The first place I'd look is at the thermostat. The PO might have used a regular one from the Autoparts Store. WRONG THING TO DO!!! These engines MUST use one of these: Motorcraft E5TZ-8575-C or Navistar 1807945-C1 thermostat
Also thermostat number 1807974c94 is the current updated part #.
There is also check ball that allows air to escape from the block while holding back A/F flow until the tstat opens.
CAUTION:
The specified thermostat does not contain an internal bypass,
since the bypass is located in the upper side of the thermostat housing. You'll need to take off the upper thermostat housing and clean out the cavity that the 'little steel ball' sits in. There is a cork o-ring that holds the ball in there. Be very careful not to damage it. There should be an opening into the upper neck area. As I understand it, the normal pressure of coolant flow will push the steel ball up to block off the opening into the upper neck, but if the engine is off the ball will drop but still allow any trapped air to escape thru the upper neck area.
CAUTION:
Check the new thermostat before installing it for correct opening temperature. Before suspending in boiling water, with a flashlight check where the rubber and the flat metal flange meet for bad seal.
Tstat starts opening barely at 180-192f, fully open 200-212f.
You're gonna need to buy more of the correct type of antifreeze while you're there. Prestone - in a black bottle with purple trim, 2 gal minumum. This is the first and least expensive place to start looking for cooling system problems. Next would be the fan clutch. Sprat simple green on the thermocouple spring on the front of the fan clutch and be sure it is clean and free of grease and be sure it stays that way. If clutch is still a suspect, replace it, but it's a spendy puppie $150-ish. If you're still having problems replace that radiator core with a new 4-row or a new 5-row core if you can afford it. If you're still having problems....sell the truck [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img]Baja
Re: high water temp climbing hills at highway speed no-load
I had a very similar problem, right after I replaced the injectors, which shouldn't have mattered that much...realized probably had original radiator, it was leaking & upon inspection not good enough to acid dipped & repaired,(too many things to fix) new was cheaper, baught new hoses, truck has been happy camper since. New coolant w/sca.
jerry
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'91 F350 CC,7.3NA w/K&N,E40D(rebuilt--way too many times), 2WD,3.55 rear end,new IP,new u-joints & carrier bearing, new rotors, new calipers, new drums & hdware, added Auburn limited slip unit (2/8/05)w/valvoline synth 80-90w, new batt.cables,new window motors,new radiator & hoses, 500K, (new injectors)+ mi (now 678K miles)& still Truck'n. If I can fix it, it ain't broke, I'd rather do it myself.(yes, I add,stanadyne, lucas or power sytems fuel additive in every tank, w/maybe 1-2x year full big bottle dose split between both tanks). New tires & pretty wheels, front end rebuild 3/17/05. Bilsteins added 6/12/05. New motor mounts & valve cover gaskets (9/06.)Future hopes finally fixing my electric door locks & adding remote entry/alarm system. http://community.webshots.com/user/jl_mendoza
Re: high water temp climbing hills at highway speed no-load
BG... Based on the pics from D_D_C... the NAPA offering (#385-190..$10 @ my locale) looks like the OEM thermostat... Is more cylindrical (top to bottom) than the common auto t-stats you mentioned. Based on it being the correct shape and temp (190°?), what's reason you only recommend the FoMoCo/IH parts? The partshouses pawning off the automotive style (obviously not the right part) or some other reason?
Just wondering, because like D_D_C... the IH house is 30 miles away & the 3 local stealerships are all smoking crack price wise...
Re: high water temp climbing hills at highway speed no-load
[ QUOTE ]
BG... Based on the pics from D_D_C... the NAPA offering (#385-190..$10 @ my locale) looks like the OEM thermostat... Is more cylindrical (top to bottom) than the common auto t-stats you mentioned. Based on it being the correct shape and temp (190°?), what's reason you only recommend the FoMoCo/IH parts? The partshouses pawning off the automotive style (obviously not the right part) or some other reason?
Just wondering, because like D_D_C... the IH house is 30 miles away & the 3 local stealerships are all smoking crack price wise...
[/ QUOTE ]
Well, they do look similar to the 'real thing'. If you'd like to be our guinea pig and try it out, be my guest. I realize the Ford Stealership wants an arm and a leg, but considering the cost and hassle(2 more gallons of antifreeze, distilled water, finding DCAs, more dead neighbor cats and dogs) of having to take it out and 'do it right this time', it's just not worth not having the correct part in this case. Remember the old sign on the mechanics garage wall....Pay Me Now, or Pay Me Later...just don't complain to me when you've gotta pay me later TOO. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]it's up to you. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img]Baja
Re: high water temp climbing hills at highway speed no-load
Been running mine now for about 2,000 miles so far and have seen no temp variations compared to the previous. Run the livin' snot out of it too. Just last night my neighbor got in my case about my driving habbits. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif[/img]
If needed I can vouch as the guinea pig. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]
Goldie 1990 F-350 Custom 4x4 C/C DRW conversion. 7.3L Banks non-waste gated turbo, ZF-5 with 4" custom Exhaust complimenting a RDT venturi system, Autometer Pyro and boost 2 gauge pillarpod and your standard compliment of mechanical gauges. Clutch pedal Heim joint mod.
The Beef 1989 F-350 Lariat C/C DRW 7.3L N/A, ZF-5. Clutch pedal heim joint mod. Original price $500.00.
Currently slated for an extreme makeover ground up restoration.
Mater 2007 F-250 Lariat 4x4 6.9L IDI, T-19 trans pushing a 7'6" Western plow. Completely assembled from the tires up!
Re: high water temp climbing hills at highway speed no-load
[ QUOTE ]
Been running mine now for about 2,000 miles so far and have seen no temp variations compared to the previous. Run the livin' snot out of it too. Just last night my neighbor got in my case about my driving habbits. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif[/img]
If needed I can vouch as the guinea pig. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]
Ron
[/ QUOTE ]
D-D-C, Ok, Tag, you're it. But ya gotta change your handle to "Diesel GuineaPig Catcher [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif[/img], and ya gotta keep giving us 'updates' [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img]Baja
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