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7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes) Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the 7.3 Liter In-Direct Injection Navistar engines.

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Old 01-17-2008, 08:04 AM   #1 (permalink)
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How to jump correctely

Ok. It's a simple question but I wonder how much conversation it will generate. Also i need to know so I can crank my truck.
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Old 01-17-2008, 08:14 AM   #2 (permalink)
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To boost correctly..... from/too your vehicle: Positive > battery post and then negative > lift ring on the manifold or a hard ground point.
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Old 01-17-2008, 11:24 AM   #3 (permalink)
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My batteries have a notice on the drivers side: "DO NOT JUMP FROM THIS BATTERY" from that caution you should jump to the pass side battery for the pos +, and use the engine for the negative like cdnsarguy said to.
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Old 01-17-2008, 12:41 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Just to add one more caution- when making the connections the vehicle with the good battery should be off, make the connections as stated, start the 'good' vehicle and then start the vehicle with the bad batteries. This helps prevent any 'jolt' to the charging system on the 'good' vehicle.
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Old 01-17-2008, 03:55 PM   #5 (permalink)
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And I might as well add my useless thoughts...


Other batteries should be used to BOOST, not start all out from a dead battery. The jumper connections where you put it only let so much current through and i have never been able to successfully start my truck by jumping after batteries were run down. Over time the other cars alternator will charge the battery in its bay and eventually charge yours but that could be hard on the alt. They are meant to maintain voltage, not recharge a battery. I hardly ever use jumper cables on my truck anymore...easier and quicker to string out 100-200ft of extension cord and use a charger.
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Old 01-17-2008, 04:13 PM   #6 (permalink)
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And I might as well add my useless thoughts...

The jumper connections where you put it only let so much current through and i have never been able to successfully start my truck by jumping after batteries were run down.
Good point anthony2010. That is why it's important to have jumper cables that have enough capacity to use on a diesel engine. The cheapo ones from most of the parts stores will not flow enough current to 'start' a diesel engine with a dead battery. Just look at the difference in size on the diesel's battery cables...
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Old 01-17-2008, 05:22 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I have never understood the reasoning behind the theory of clamping the ground cable onto the engine instead of straight to the negative post on the battery. It's just placing it further away, and potentially not getting as good a connection.
Also, don't worry about the warning of not using the one battery to jump. I can guarantee you the cable running from the driver's side battery to the pass. battery, then to the starter is MUCH larger than your jumper cables (and 100x more cross-sectional area than the jumper cable clamps). The only reasoning I could see behind it is if you had small cables connecting the two batteries, and also going back to my point of clamping it further 'down the wire'...
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Old 01-17-2008, 05:55 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I've always just hook up the good car, then hook up the bad car. I hold each clip far apart, red in one hand, black in the other. When I hook up the good car i set the other end up the jumpers on the ground spread apart so they don't touch too. I just hook up directly to battery terminals. I've heard otherwise but never had a problem and the negative battery terminal is attached to the frame anyways.
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Old 01-17-2008, 06:07 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I have never understood the reasoning behind the theory of clamping the ground cable onto the engine instead of straight to the negative post on the battery.
the reasoning is, you should try to limit sparks near batteries.clamping a piece of metal bolted to the block does not create near the right conditions for explosions.Clamping the battery ground post ,almost always creates a spark---Rob
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Old 01-17-2008, 06:35 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Umm...Clamping a cable onto the engine is THE same exact condition as clamping it to the negative post. If it doesn't arc, that means you don't have connection. I understand the theory about gasses released from batteries when they are under high load (boiling can be heard). I think it's hydrogen gas being given off...but the chances of creating a situation where an explosion can take place is obviously few and far between, or some of us would have had problems thus far.
To sum it up...I agree about the spark issue, which is why I clamp the dead battery's +, good battery +, bad battery -, good battery - in that order. There will be NO spark at the dead battery (where the potential for gasses is higher, because the battery has most likely been worked hard from trying to start the car).
That's just my .02 cents.
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Old 01-17-2008, 06:45 PM   #11 (permalink)
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pull your vehicle to theirs---shut off!!!! hook cables to your vehicle--then to theirs----properly--then start your vehicle-----------after theirs starts-------disconnect off your vehicle first--as there could be some gas generated from their battery--and spark could set it off----your batt will be draining some--so shouldnt be making any gas----
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Old 01-17-2008, 06:54 PM   #12 (permalink)
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yes asauer it is hydrogen. I hate it when people say hydroGEN cars run off WATER.......they dont run on water. they run off the hydrogen produced through electrolysis. Thats the same process that happens when you charge a battery too fast. It starts breaking the hydrogen and oxygen bonds. On sealed batteries like what I and i think most of us have, hydrogen cant really escape unless the batteries are junky and have holes in them. Better safe then sorry though i guess...hydrogen is nasty stuff once ignited. i have to admit i never put the ground on the engine....


The problem with hooking up another car or even another truck to these engines is that the starter takes up so much amperage you might as well put it on a charger.
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Old 01-17-2008, 07:50 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Nicely said. And speaking of battery chargers- the 'proper' charging procedure is charge current @ 10% of battery's rated cranking amps as a general rule of thumb.
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Old 01-17-2008, 08:28 PM   #14 (permalink)
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if im in a hurry i do 40 amp for 5 minutes usually got it good enough to start. Starting used to kill the batteries pretty easy and id be charging on a regular basis. I have nice new batteries and connectors and starter. It starts withing 6 seconds of cranking in 16* now with one glow cycle. Haven't had to charge for months now. NOW...10 percent of my 875 batteries would be what? 85-6 amps? 40 is half that but i have non maintenance batteries and im worried about electrolysis like i said and blowing up with gas? I dont know maybe its a farse.

NORMALLY i let it on 2 amp for several hours. I have to be careful with my charger because its not automatic and will overcharge the batteries. Mine has 2,40,and 200 engine start. 2 amp is the most comfortable i am with it being alone. if im discharging right away i dont mind the 40 amp so i wont use 40 to just charge a battery. Just the way i do battery charging for reference.....
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Old 01-17-2008, 09:14 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I should have clarified. It's reccommended to charge at NO MORE THAN 10% of total rated cranking amps. The less charging amperage, the better I'd say.
But to answer your question, 10% of 875= 87.5 MAX.
I also haven't figured out the theory of being able to "overcharge" a battery. A battery would charge much in the same as a capacitor- when discharged, voltage is low, but will readily 'take on' current, hence a rapid rate of charge. As the battery charges up close to the battery charger's voltage, current would drop off exponentially, therefore have a much slower rate of charge. Finally, once a battery has reached the same voltage as the charger, in theory, current flow will cease.
However, I know this phenomenon does exist. My reasoning is that the battery's internal resistance is a cause of current flow even while the battery is fully charged, causing excess heat and 'gassing'. This is also the same reason that leaving your truck sit for months with the batteries disconnected from the truck (but connected to eachother) will cause them to drain.
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