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7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes) Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the 7.3 Liter In-Direct Injection Navistar engines.

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Old 12-31-2011, 06:28 AM   #16 (permalink)
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You don't even have to cut it at a 45, make it five inches long and clamp it on and you can make it bend 90 degrees at the bottom of the tank, in that little well. Since the stock fuel pickup has a bypass on it that opens when the filter screen clogs, you're not really losing any protection either way.
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Old 01-01-2012, 12:24 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Lightbulb

I had a sender that didn't work ( 2 tanks).... I ran the tank dry, put a piece of carpet under it and undid the straps,lowered it down,, hit the ring and popped the sender/fuel pickup out .... in my case the float split and filled up and sank....... but I went to picanpul and dropped some tanks from ford pickups ( no vans)_ ... they use that sender unit, a printed circuit board with a wiper on the board...... I think they are common to lots of fords of that era...... not hard to fix at all..... I got spares while I was at the yard, not a hot-moving item.. I tried to get a sender from ford .... no dice part NA anywhere... fixed it myself, so can you
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Old 01-01-2012, 11:42 AM   #18 (permalink)
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My brass float was full of diesel too. I emptied it out, cleaned it with alcohol, and patched it with a little dab of RTV. While I was in there I took a file to the end of the wire that wraps around the float and beveled it off so it wouldn't hole the float again. So far, so good.
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Old 01-05-2012, 05:36 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Lots of good info in here guys thank you. I will get Dad and his gearhead buddies to take a look at it. Would it be easier to drop the tanks or lift the bed?
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Old 01-05-2012, 09:42 PM   #20 (permalink)
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for doing both tanks definitely easier to lift the bed. you take some hose clamps off the filler, and the screws out, and they let go. this assumes you can get your bed bolts free. I drilled some out, ground some off, and managed to loosen some.
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1992 F250 XLT 4x4 Super Cab 7.3 IDI E40D 3.55 ATS 088 4"R.C 360k
1982 MBZ 300SD W126 California model w/Sunroof, no EGR
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Old 02-03-2012, 02:46 PM   #21 (permalink)
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What all do you have to do before lifting the bed? I assume disconnecting brake lights and such.
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Old 04-30-2012, 02:30 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Fuel Tank Sending Unit.. 1989 F250 7.3L

I would like to put new Fuel Tank Sending Units into the dual tanks of my 89 f250 7.3L. Two dealers said not availabe any more. Napa, Autozone, and Oriellys said not availabe.
Does any body know where I can buy new ones or rebuilt ones? Is there a different year or model that would work? Any other ideas.

The Fuel Tank Sending Unit for my truck consists of a variable resister, controlled by the action of an attached float in fuel tank. Resistence should be 160 ohms (full tank) and 15 ohms (empty tank).
Any help would be appreciated.

Redrobert
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Old 04-30-2012, 05:35 PM   #23 (permalink)
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you could try hacking 10-180 ohm Float Arm Fuel Level Sender - R89890 | ISSPROGAUGES

more seriously, you should read '83 - '86 CFI/EFI Fuel Sender Repair
it says The '83-'86 CFI/EFI sender is very different from the sender for the carbureted cars. It's actually a lot like the sender for the
'87-'93 cars, but the resistance range is 80 Ohms empty and 10 Ohms full, while the '87-'93 sender is 10 Ohms empty and
165 Ohms hen the tank is full. Since I wasn't having any luck finding the E3ZZ sender, I started looking around for other Ford
senders that could be used as organ donors, to repair my existing sender.
[...] the 1984-1987 Tempo/Topaz, 2.3 Liter,
without fuel injection. [...] This sender is Dorman part number 692-120, or Ford part number E63Z-9275-A.


So if you get in there and find a ceramic element you can almost certainly get a new one from the above.

One site says you can clean your ceramic element with MEK, which you can generally get at a hardware store near you (even in California! edit - but since you live in TX you can get damn near anything)
The Nissan EXA / NX Club - since 1997 - How to Clean Fuel Level Sending Unit !!
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Old 04-30-2012, 10:43 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redrobert View Post
I would like to put new Fuel Tank Sending Units into the dual tanks of my 89 f250 7.3L. Two dealers said not availabe any more. Napa, Autozone, and Oriellys said not availabe.
Does any body know where I can buy new ones or rebuilt ones? Is there a different year or model that would work? Any other ideas.

The Fuel Tank Sending Unit for my truck consists of a variable resister, controlled by the action of an attached float in fuel tank. Resistence should be 160 ohms (full tank) and 15 ohms (empty tank).
Any help would be appreciated.

Redrobert
Check out Rockauto.com that's where I got mine. Replaced both with no problem.
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Old 04-30-2013, 01:47 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Sending units

Old thread, but same problem!

Just checked Rockauto.com and they no longer list them. Instead, I found a specialty shop in up-state NY that rebuilds your sending units.

Guy's name is Dan and he owns tristarrradiator.com which rebuilds sending units and that is all he does! Used to do radiators, but gave that up to concentrate on sending units only.

Should be pretty reasonable to get the old originals rebuilt. Between $60-$100 he said.
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Old 04-30-2013, 11:13 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Have you tried LMC Truck? They had them last I looked but may be only for the 90+ model years.

Cheers!
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Old 05-01-2013, 08:53 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Try these guys.
website: www.tristarrradiator.com
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Old 07-27-2013, 08:58 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanielH View Post
Have you tried LMC Truck? They had them last I looked but may be only for the 90+ model years.

Cheers!
I know this is kinda an old thread, but I'm having gauge issues, so I've been searching.
It looks like LMC does handle the parts you mentioned. I've bought lots of stuff from them in the past. Most of their stuff is cheapo-Chinese stuff but it's reasonable. Their customer service is terrible, don't expect to talk to anyone who knows anything about auto parts.
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Old 07-27-2013, 09:40 AM   #29 (permalink)
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In an earlier thread on "fuel lines" I mentioned that my fuel Gage stopped working. I used to judge my fuel consumption by the miles driven on the odometer but it became a real nuisance. So, last week, I dropped the tank from underneath after buying a mechanics creeper from Harbor Freight and started the process. I'm 76 years old so don't let the task deter you from doing it yourself. Just takes some time.

After getting the tank out from under the truck, I didn't visibly see any problem with the sending unit after going through all that work. However, as I mentioned before, the float felt heavier than necessary and after placing it in a pan of water, it sank. The float seems to be made out of a very thin piece of brass tubing with caps on each end and mine had several hairline cracks on the sides. Seems kinda of strange to have stress marks on something that just floats in diesel fuel but that was the case. So, I drilled out the end to express any fuel and treated it with JB Weld to seal the cracks. Than just to make sure, I took drinkpoo's advice and coated it again with RTV sealant.

Today, I filled it up with fresh fuel and so far ever thing is ok. I had some apprehension when switching to this tank thinking that I would have all kinds of air intrusion form the empty fuel lines but it didn't miss a beat.

A gentleman by the name of Bill on here said that Car Quest had floats available but I couldn't find them. Might be specific to locality.

Bottom line is don't shy away from the job if you have the time. You could do it in one day but I had the luxury of spreading out. Treat the tank straps with PB Blaster before you start.
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Old 07-27-2013, 09:48 AM   #30 (permalink)
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I would be soldering the brass personaly, use silver bearing solder, sand the float down so it was even and shiny, coat it in flux then heat it up so the solder melts the second it touched the float, put enough on to coat the entire thing! (This will not effect the weight by much at all!)

now it is protected and slealed. Personaly I do not trust any chemicle seleant to be in a fuel tank for any length of time!
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