As long as the fuel delivery and return systems are intact, there is no reason to prime. My truck can sit for 2 weeks and still start within 2 seconds.
As for bypassing the clutch switch, you just have to jumper the wires, I don't have a clutch so I'm not sure which ones. LMJD know I think.
1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD,4:10 L/S, LB, Dually Photos
ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
2012 Copper Canyon 273 FWRET w/2 slides, Air Lift 5000 bags
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Hypermax Cowl induction, K&N air filter, flex-a-lite 26K trans cooler with fan,Tekonsha prodigy
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1990 Jeep Wrangler Sahara, in the process of a major overhaul/upgrade. OM617 on the horizon! Front & rear Dana 44s from a Wagoneer till I get some 1-ton axles built & narrowed, and eventually a front shackle reversal. Diesel YJ, bay-BEE, and not a cookie-cutter 4BT conversion!
The switch on the clutch pedal. Just unplug and make a spaded jumper.
There's more to it than that. Most have cruise control and there'll be two speed control cutout wires at the switch too. Can't recall the color codes but what's what can be determined with a test light.
Looks like Phil and I posted at the same time. Great minds think alike.
Heavy truck and diesel mechanic (thankfully retired after 30+ yrs)
'91 F-250 SC 4X4, 5spd. ATS Turbo, 3:55 diff.
My first thought would be to install the FF topped off with fuel, then crack the injector lines to bleed the air. Cracking the lines is what I did a couple times while getting the feel of where my tank pick-ups bottomed out.
So are you only trying to prime for that initial start after installing the 7.3?
Or are you worried about losing prime routinely?
Interested to hear how your project works out.
Yea just the initial prime. I was thinkin today cause I just put the fuel sending unit in the old gas tank and it doesnt look like it sits how the fuel tank does on the diesel so it might not have been picking up the little bit of fuel I had in there either.
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