hey guys I was talkign to guy long time ago who took single rear wheel axle and put spacers on it and isntalled dual wheels on it. I have a set od 4 16 inch budd wheels for the truck right now and i was looking and right now pushign them on the whole way they would rub leaf springs. is there any kit i could buy or spacers i could buy so i can install these on my truck? MY truck is a 1990 f-350 4x4 with a dump bed on it. Please let me know. I really dont wanna have to install a dually rearend under the truck.
1994 extcab f-250 7.3 factory turbo into 6 inch turnout stacks. fuel turned up and stage 1 injectors.
1993 f-250 5.9 cummins installed now in it with zf 5 speed
1990 f-350 4x4 4 speed tranny, meyers 8 foot plow, alluminum dump bed. non turbo 7.3 all stock.
yes big spacers
personaly i hate them but they get the job done
if youre going that route get steel or stainless steel and stay away from aluminum
the stainless is strong and dont rust
spacers are a cheap fix youre still limited by the gawr not the combined wheel weight reating
88 f250 96 bed 95 front clip western mirrors and big ole bumper.
7.3 idi t70, 3g, g31,
other mods, oba, warn winch, big steel goodies including a headache rack etc.
I have done what you want to do, only I used a rearend out of a single-tire van. The van rearend is a couple inches wider, so no spacers were required. I like this because the wheel is directly against the hub which seems stronger to me. The only spacer I had to make was a way to center the budd wheel on the hub. The dually rearends have a machined centering place on the hub that fits the ID of the wheels correctly. On the van rearend, the wheels had about .200" of slop on the hub. I just used a piece of PVC pipe and turned it to the correct ID and OD in the lathe (unfair machine tool advantage) and made it fit a little snug on the hub so it'd stay there. All it's for is to center the wheels until you get the lug nuts tight, the lug nuts are supposed to carry the load. I'm sure I will catch hell for using PVC instead of steel, but I didn't have any steel that diameter, and my PVC setup has been fine and I've put about 3000 miles on the truck like this with no ill effects.
BTW, I didn't notice this problem when I first put the truck together, and as soon as I took it out on the road I felt the back of the truck jumping up and down.
1986 F250 2WD Super Cab XLT Lariat w/ 1996 front clip. Dually bed & van rearend (2" wider, allows spring clearance). 6.9 w/ approx 120,000mi. Banks non-wastegated turbo system, Wellman G088 glowplugs, Delphi BB injectors, Kenworth pyrometer, vac/boost gauge, electric water temp/oil psi/voltmeter mounted in dash. 3" Mandrel-bent open exhaust. C6 trans, 3.54 gears. Okiegringo idler pulley. R134a A/C conversion. WMO/diesel blend in one tank.
Badassfordman, are you planning on running dual wheels in the rear, but leaving the front as is? I'd be real innterested to see how it turns out, as I'm not too fond of the typical dually front end - if it was a Chevy I'd have lowered it already, but the TTB don't respond well to cutting the springs. So yeah, take them pics when you're done, I've seen an early-'80s F350 done like that and I really liked it, but our 1990s have a way different front end...
does the pvc your talking about does it just slide over the axle houseing, if possible could you give me a description of it.also do i use the same lugnuts,this is a 1988 f250 with factory 302 & 4speed thanks 4 the help
'95 F250 ext cab long bed, PSD, 5 speed, 2 wheel drive, 3.55 gears, 286,000 miles, Edge Evolution CTS (LINK TO MY REVIEW), LUK clutch, homemade REAR BUMPER, open element AIR FILTER, 36" ARE contractor cap. With tools, full of fuel and me on board (300 lbs) steer 3620, drive 3860 total 7480.