Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Northwest Indiana
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
I have done what you want to do, only I used a rearend out of a single-tire van. The van rearend is a couple inches wider, so no spacers were required. I like this because the wheel is directly against the hub which seems stronger to me. The only spacer I had to make was a way to center the budd wheel on the hub. The dually rearends have a machined centering place on the hub that fits the ID of the wheels correctly. On the van rearend, the wheels had about .200" of slop on the hub. I just used a piece of PVC pipe and turned it to the correct ID and OD in the lathe (unfair machine tool advantage) and made it fit a little snug on the hub so it'd stay there. All it's for is to center the wheels until you get the lug nuts tight, the lug nuts are supposed to carry the load. I'm sure I will catch hell for using PVC instead of steel, but I didn't have any steel that diameter, and my PVC setup has been fine and I've put about 3000 miles on the truck like this with no ill effects.
BTW, I didn't notice this problem when I first put the truck together, and as soon as I took it out on the road I felt the back of the truck jumping up and down.
1986 F250 2WD Super Cab XLT Lariat w/ 1996 front clip. Dually bed & van rearend (2" wider, allows spring clearance). 6.9 w/ approx 120,000mi. Banks non-wastegated turbo system, Wellman G088 glowplugs, Delphi BB injectors, Kenworth pyrometer, vac/boost gauge, electric water temp/oil psi/voltmeter mounted in dash. 3" Mandrel-bent open exhaust. C6 trans, 3.54 gears. Okiegringo idler pulley. R134a A/C conversion. WMO/diesel blend in one tank.