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Old 02-07-2012, 08:03 PM   #1 (permalink)
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How to remove center support bearing

We it's time to open my wallet and dump some money into my money maker.

So I got a center support from MOOG. How the heck do I get the old one off??? I got the metal bracket off and the rubber bushing around the bearing itself, but getting the bearing off the drive shaft is a bear. Do I just beat the heck out of it or what. Is there a tool I can rent.??

any ideas would be great.

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Old 02-07-2012, 08:16 PM   #2 (permalink)
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IIRC it's pressed on.


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Old 02-07-2012, 08:19 PM   #3 (permalink)
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yeah I had the feelling it was. I saw a youtube video and they used a press to take it off. I'm hoping for a backyard redneck way of doing this that cost little or nothing.
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Old 02-07-2012, 08:25 PM   #4 (permalink)
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You can clamp the shaft in a vice and use a block of wood and a hammer to remove the old one. Putting a new one on is a little harder because you have to be careful not to damage it. I used a piece of 2x4 and a BFH to tap the new one into place. It has been a while since I changed it so I don't remember the exact procedure I used. I seem to remember a ring that you tap on after the bearing is in place but I'm not positive. I know it took me longer to pull the drive shaft than to change the bearing.
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Old 02-07-2012, 08:27 PM   #5 (permalink)
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You can use a puller to get it off and a piece of pipe to get it back on. Or if you really want to redneck it, tie the shaft to a tree and pull the bearing off with your tractor.

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Old 02-07-2012, 08:28 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I bought a new one when I did my U- Joints and once I figured out what it took, I decided mine was still good. Truck only has 73,XXX on it and I was just doing PM work for our cross country trip.


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Old 02-07-2012, 08:31 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_20 View Post
. I used a piece of 2x4 and a BFH to tap the new one into place.
You need to make sure and only hammer on the inner race of the bearing - that's why a properly sized piece of pipe works.
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Old 02-07-2012, 08:46 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Personally, I'd take it to a driveshaft shop and pay 1/2 hour labor to eliminate any chance of botching the job by not using the right tools.
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Old 02-07-2012, 08:53 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks guys,
I thought about the 30min of labor idea too. I love the redneck ideas, but I'm lacking a good tractor and strong vice. I love the ideas and I will save them for the next combat zone I find myself in. I love BFHs and will probably beat the old one off and take it to a shop and have them put the new one on.
Mine pretty much was good but like I said I really opened up the wallet and started buying crap that the PO neglected etc etc. thanks again for the info and quick replys
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Old 02-07-2012, 10:51 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Personally, I'd take it to a driveshaft shop and pay 1/2 hour labor to eliminate any chance of botching the job by not using the right tools.
That's what I did. Actually ended up being an hour labor for an hour and a half of actual work, it was on there pretty good.
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Old 02-08-2012, 05:38 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Well I've got a great idea after looking at the you tube video
I will jerry rigg up a vice/platform and use the hydraulics on my dump trailer bed, that is power up and power down, to press it on and off. That's really rednecking it.
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Old 02-08-2012, 05:47 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I'm not sure a dump trailer develops the necessary force, I've done shorter driveshafts in a 20 ton shop press before and it felt like it took everything that press had to bust it loose. Having a crew cab long bed 2WD, our shop press wasn't long enought (I want to say each piece of my driveshaft is about 6' long) so I had to take it to the driveshaft shop. IIRC it cost about $40 to have the old one pressed off and the new one pressed on.

Another thing you can try, if you have really good drill bits, is to drill almost all the way through using a bit slightly smaller than the inner race's thickness. Then give it a good whack with a hammer & chisel. Dana 44 rear wheel bearings have a spacer or retainer on the spline side of the bearing, and that's how you remove it so the bearing will press off.
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1991 F350 Lariat XLT, 7.3l, 5-speed, crew cab, SRW, 3.55, 2WD.

1990 Jeep Wrangler Sahara, in the process of a major overhaul/upgrade. OM617 on the horizon! Front & rear Dana 44s from a Wagoneer till I get some 1-ton axles built & narrowed, and eventually a front shackle reversal. Diesel YJ, bay-BEE, and not a cookie-cutter 4BT conversion!
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Old 02-08-2012, 06:30 AM   #13 (permalink)
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$40 isn't bad, better than breaking tools and a drive shaft
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Old 02-22-2012, 09:17 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Sorry to resurrect an old post (and my first here, by the way) but I work at a driveshaft shop and thought this may help someone in the future.

The easiest way - by far - to remove a stubborn carrier bearing is with an abrasive air (cut off) saw (and a pair of safety glasses MANDATORY).

Take the rubber and housing off the bearing. I often place the outer cage of the bearing on a solid surface and hit the top with moderate hammer force, cracking the cage off in two pieces, or use the air saw with two opposite cuts.
Now the seals and ball bearings / bearing holder can be removed.

Next, I make one cut along the race, almost to the splined stub's surface, and lightly tap a small chisel into that cut. This will split the race the rest of the way and the chisel will 'grab' the race so it can be slipped off easily using the chisel as a handle.

Clean the abrasive dust from the splines very well with WD-40 or similar before installing new bearing.

DO NOT attempt this without safety gear. Ever. A local shop worker recently lost an eye to a small piece of steel. He diligently wears safety glasses, but they got fogged and he lifted them for just a second to see how far his bearing was pressed on. Boom.
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Old 02-22-2012, 10:00 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Thanks for the great advice. Any on getting one on?
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