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7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes) Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the 7.3 Liter In-Direct Injection Navistar engines.

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Old 08-06-2006, 04:34 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Hydrolocked

Well I went out to start the van today and nothing. Said "that sounded funny" as the starter would not spin the engine. Looked at the oil stick saw bits of water. Then opend the radiator cap and didnt see any coolant. What do I do now? Do i pull the glow plugs or something? Please help.
Svm
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Old 08-06-2006, 07:58 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Re: Hydrolocked

All you can hope is that the oil cooler has developed a leak, otherwise I'd say you're looking at a cavitated block. There is a good page that tells how to test for cavitation. I'll see if I can find it. Tim

This isn't the one I was looking for, but it will help you. http://www.thedieselstop.com/content...on%20Diagnosis

Here's another; http://www.samantha.cc/cavitationartic.html
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Old 08-06-2006, 08:32 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Re: Hydrolocked

Thanks, but nothing says what to do when it is hydrolocked. I want to get unhydrolocked safely without further damage.
Thanks
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Old 08-06-2006, 08:58 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Re: Hydrolocked

First, I would drain the remaining coolant and oil from the engine.

Then, remove the glow plugs or injectors, shove a small hose down into the cylinder/combustion chamber and suck the water/oil out using a Mighty Vac, a shop vac with the hose taped in it or some other vacuum source or pump.

I would strongly advise against trying to use the starter to shoot the water out. The hole is too small for the water to escape as rapidly as the starter would try to get it out. You could severely damage the engine that way.

I got 25' of 1/4" O/D tubing from Home Depot for $1.99 to suck the oil out of mine when I installed my new injectors. I ran it all the way thru my shop vac hose (so I wouldn't get nasty oil in hose) and into the cannister. I shoved a sock in the vac hose and taped a plastic bag over it. It worked great.

However, if I had to do it over again, I would go to the auto parts store and buy a Mighty Vac as I think I burnt up my shop vac.
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Old 08-06-2006, 09:46 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Re: Hydrolocked

[ QUOTE ]
All you can hope is that the oil cooler has developed a leak, otherwise I'd say you're looking at a cavitated block.

[/ QUOTE ]
umm, no, a oil cooler leakign would not hydrolock the pistons.................
bad block, bad head, or bad head gasket.

pull out all the glow plugs, spin it over by hand 2 revs, then crank away with the starter..
it will come out violently...............
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Old 08-06-2006, 09:56 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Re: Hydrolocked

Well either way, you are in for a lot of work with the van.

How many miles are on your engine? Is it around 150,000?

What kind of coolant are you using? What kind of SCAs?

If you plan to not do more damage to your engine you need to drain the oil and get that coolant out of there before it starts to do harm to the bearings.

As said, you should pull the glow plug and get the water out. Figure out which cyilnder it is from and report back.

Hopefully it is one of the easier cylinders to get to, such as one in the rear so you can take off the doghouse and get to it easy.

But i'm thinking at this point, it doesn't matter, the engine is going to have to come out i'm afraid.
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Old 08-07-2006, 10:09 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Re: Hydrolocked

thanks for the comeback, The van has got 215k I bought it three years ago, so who knows the history. I knew at some point this would be inevitable, And I really like the 4x one ton van. So looks like there is some work thats going to be done. Should I drain trhe coolant out with the block drain? Will I need to take the radiator off to hand crank the engine? Thanks for you help.
Eric
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Old 08-07-2006, 10:18 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Re: Hydrolocked

I'd pull the lower radiator hose off and let it all drain. You should be able to crank the engine by hand using a socket on the harmonic balancer bolt. Shouldn't need to pull the rad to do that.


Good Luck!
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Old 08-07-2006, 11:23 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Re: Hydrolocked

[ QUOTE ]

umm, no, a oil cooler leakign would not hydrolock the pistons.................
bad block, bad head, or bad head gasket.

pull out all the glow plugs, spin it over by hand 2 revs, then crank away with the starter..
it will come out violently...............

[/ QUOTE ]

Really? Please explain to me how and why the oil cooler leaking couldn't hydrolock the engine.

Second, If the liquid causing the hydrolock was expelled via the GP holes "violently", wouldn't, or couldn't that lead to bent rods and such? Just curious. Please school me, Tim
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Old 08-07-2006, 01:09 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Re: Hydrolocked

A oil cooler coolant leak will have oil in the coolant because the running oil pressure is higher than the coolant pressure. Now when you shut down the motor the coolant pressure is higher than the oil pressure butt... The o-rings fail long before the coolant enters the oil... But after time it will go both ways but thats when you really have some bad o-rings. There is no way a leaking oil cooler can put coolant on the top of the piston cylinder side. Coolant or water (rain water) needs to come thru the intake path or the cavitation path.
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Old 08-07-2006, 06:56 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Re: Hydrolocked

[ QUOTE ]

Really? Please explain to me how and why the oil cooler leaking couldn't hydrolock the engine.

Second, If the liquid causing the hydrolock was expelled via the GP holes "violently", wouldn't, or couldn't that lead to bent rods and such? Just curious. Please school me, Tim

[/ QUOTE ]
becuase for an engine to hydrolock water/oil has to get between the pistons and th ehead, or into the intake manifold ,then drawn in threw the valves.
a bad oil cooler can leak coolant into the oil, but there is no way for it to get ontop of the piston via the intake or head, since all it does is sit around unpressurized in the pan..........
they usually hydrolock when sht down hot and there is pressure in th ecooling system. the coolant then leaks out of the crack or gasket till it fills up the bad cylinder partially, then when you go to crank it, it performs the bangstop theory where liquids can't compress


okay, on violently. you crank it by hand 2 revs, because this runs each cyl through its compression stroke, thus expelling MOST of the coolant up through the glow plug hole slowly. then you crank it with the start the remaining particals expell through the glow plug holes. no glow plug,= no compression. thus allowing a path for water to escape. it will expell violently, put not enough to hurt it if you keep just bumping the starter. y ou ever done a compression test on a diesel? the air comes out violently out of the empty holes, its just some liquid added to the mix when you do it this way..
i have unhydrololcoked MANY 6.5L's and i do know what i am doing.
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Old 08-07-2006, 08:09 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Re: Hydrolocked

The thing to do at this point is to quit messing around and pull the engine. You are not going to fix whatever is wrong with it with it in the van.

Birken
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Old 08-07-2006, 10:08 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Re: Hydrolocked

LOL, Birken is ALL work.
Vans suck to work on. yeach.


Good Luck!
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Old 08-08-2006, 03:31 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Re: Hydrolocked

Take your time and pull the motor. Sounds like the rig is definitely worth it!
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