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I need help ASAP!

7K views 6 replies 3 participants last post by  NH2112 
#1 ·
So I took my heads off to check for any pieces of a broken glow plug. I didnt find anything and now I have a problem. I put the engine back together and I am not sure if my injection pump is timed right. when I crank it over, I get puffs of smoke out of my pump housing, (the plate with the two bolts), cuz I left it off. Is is supposed to do that or is it timed to the wrong stroke? Help me out.
 
#2 ·
You can't really install the pump "180 out" like a distributor because it'll only go on 1 way. If you removed the injector pump gear housing then your IP gear is likely out of time with the cam & crank gears, but if you just unbolted the pump from the drive gear timing shouldn't be an issue.

Does the engine start & run?
 
#3 ·
as of right now it does not run. I cranked it over several times but usually I had to put a gas rag over the air filter to get it to run before I took everything apart. If it is out of timed to the wrong stroke, how do I redo what I have done? should I go ahead and try to run it the way I did before? dont wanna screw things up worse
 
#4 · (Edited)
I haven't had to try this procedure on a 7.3l IDI but it *should* work. A similar version has worked on a couple DB2-equipped engines at work that had been disturbed with the pumps off. I can't guarantee it's the quickest or easiest way for a 7.3l, though.

First, remove the pump-to-flange mounting nuts and drive gear bolts, and remove the "home plate" over the window on the side of the injector pump (fuel will come out.)

Next, remove the gear housing and drive gear. Rotate the crank til #1 is at TDC on the compression stroke, using the timing mark on the cam gear and the dampener line & timing cover pointer as a guide. ETA removing the drive gear isn't necessary now that I think of it, just turn the gear to line up the lines in the pump.

Next, using a strong light, watch in the window while you slowly turn the injector pump drive flange, you're looking for a thin scribed line on the pump rotor to come into view. When you get the scribed line on the rotor aligned with the fixed line on the pump housing, carefully install the drive gear on the pump drive flange and tighten at least one of the pump mounting nuts. Now the pump is positioned to inject on #1, and the drive gear is timed to the pump.

Lower the gear housing onto the timing cover, you'll most likely have to position the drive gear advanced or retarded one tooth so it rotates into place like a distributor.

Check the alignment of the 2 lines in the window, and keep adjusting the drive gear position until they're as close as possible when the pump drive gear fully meshes with the cam gear.

Tighten the 2 gear housing nuts, check alignment in the window again, and make any fine adjustments by loosening the pump mounting nut you tightened earlier and turning the pump body til they're in alignment.

Holding the pump in this position, tighten the mounting nut, install & tighten the other 2 mounting nuts, and check alignment in the window one last time before installing the cover.
 
#6 ·
Read Phil's last post more closely. He says to use the timing mark on the cam gear, not the vibration damper. The cam rotates once for every two rotations of the crank, so it's mark will put #1 at TDC on the compression stroke.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Exactly. If you get the damper mark lined up with the pointer and you can see the cam gear timing mark at 12 o'clock (I'm pretty sure it's visible there but have never done it on a 7.3l), then you're at TDC on the #1 exhaust stroke. One more full turn of the crank will put #1 at TDC on compression, and the cam gear mark will be at 6 o'clock.

ETA I looked in my FSM and the 7.3l cam gear has timing marks at both 12 and 6, so you won't be able to do this procedure to find TDC #1. It looks like the passenger side valve cover will have to come off, when both #1 valves are closed you're at TDC on the compression stroke.
 
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