Just ordered a moose junior IP pump from Constega Diesel ,This weekend I will be installing it ,So ahead of Time I need help on how to get it timed and running well , also what's the best way to hook lines back up to it I had to bend them everywhere to get a wrench on to get off ,and Do they have to go in correct spots ?
Hopefully you did not take the IP off by removing the IP with the gear housing on it. There should have been NO need to bend any line to remove it. The line clamps have to be removed first, then each line is removed separate. They should be marked so they go back on to the same injector. Bending those lines, they are susceptible to cracking right at the nuts.
Cylinders 2 4 6 8 are on the drivers side, cylinders 1 3 5 7 are on passengers side. Each line is specific to each cylinder. they are different lengths.
If you removed the IP with the gear housing attached to it and didn't mark the gear in some way, you can be one or many teeth off of the correct gear timing.
To time the new IP, you have to have a timing instrument like a Ferrett Quartz pulse pickup and a Digital timing light capable of 2000 RPM and can preset the advance degree, or a J33300 or J33300 A timing meter.
Don't think ya have. I have no idea what a mechanic would charge, darn few will even work on these old engines.
It would take me 2 3 hrs to type out on how to do it without tearing the whole front off, but then it could be 180* out of time.Someone else might. On the oilburners dot net there are plenty of pictures and instructions.
Yes there is on the timing gears, there is a Y and a 0, the Y's and the 0's have to be together. Look at your IP gear it's stamped with a Y that has to match the Y on the Cam gear, the crank gear has a 0 marked on it, the 0 on the cam gear has to match.
You have to have #1 piston at TDC on the compression stroke, the mark on the damper pulley has to be dead on the 0 on the timing plate.
You have to remove the plate behind the water pump to see those marks on the gears.
When all marks are aligned, the dowel pin slot on the IP gear will be at 4 O'clock.
There is no way to get to the piston to feel if it's at TDC, by removing the glow plug, have someone put there finger over the GP hole, they should feel compressed air when the piston is coming up on the compression stroke.
Be careful installing the water pump back on, there is two bolts of special length, the two short ones, they have to go in the top two bolt holes, longer ones will jam against the gears.
Have fun and good luck. No comparison between a gasser and a diesel.
Water pump bolts have to have a sealer on them or they will leak oil.
If and when you ever get to install the new IP, you can line up the marks(lines), that's a starting point. Rotating the IP to the drivers side retards the timing, rotate to pass side advances the timing, each 1/16" will advance or retard timing by about 3 degrees. With a timing instrument, the turbo engine is set at 9.5 to 10.5 advanced at 2000 RPM. Timing is set to where the engine runs best, no two engines are alike.
Don't understand why you need a pic of the back of the IP. There are no lines on the back of the IP, there is a slot that the IP drive gear dowel pin goes in, rotate the IP until it lines up with the dowel pin.
To have the engine in time, the #1 piston has to be at TDC on the compression stroke, the mark on the crank gear should be facing UP, the mark on the Cam gear should be facing DOWN and line up with the crank gear, the other mark on the cam gear should be 180* straight up, the IP drive gear has ONE mark on it and that should line up with the mark on the cam gear.
If you can't understand the link on timing Chuckster gave you and/or my instruction above it's hopeless.
The pic below shows the IP slot the drive gear dowel goes in.
Your gears might have different marks on them, never the less all like marks have to line up.
I have never seen an IP gear with the marks you described above.
Take a picture of your gears and upload them here.
Oh, by the way, the three bolts that holld the IP to the drive gear are torqued at 47 -50 inch lbs.
That's a possibility, he bent and didn't mark any of the injector lines. Me thinks he's in deep do do. Each line is specific to each injector. If he didn't screw up the #1 line that has the factory timing fitting on it, at least that one will go back on in the correct place.
I posted a pic of the IP showing where the lines connect at to each cylinder.
But that's what happens when ya tear into something without asking first. There is plenty of threads on how to remove an IP. Search is your Uncle Bob.
Yeah chuckster, had to re-register since TDS got hacked. They didn't have my present email addy and no way for me to get back on here. LOL
I have removed and replaced several injector pumps,and never taken the lines off of the back or unclamped them until after the pump was out on the bench. I have never broke a line, or had a problem removing the pump. The trouble I saw in removing the lines while still on the engine is that there is very little way of getting at the nuts on the bottom of the pump. Makes it much easier to find out which one goes where too when you leave them in the clamps. Yes I'm a LAZY SOB.
Ok this site is messed up ,Anyway I can't find that link for autozone for the IP ,Pretty sure I've seen the pic on Google but whatever,I desperately need someone to take a actual pic of the metal lines going into back of IP ,close up of passenger side would be great like a pic facing back and one looking down to it ,I would really appreciate it ,gotta get it runing good tommorow
ON THE OTHER THREAD, I SPECIFICALLY TOLD YOU HOW TO PUT THE LINES BACK ON. SINCE YOU DIDN'T MARK ANY OF THE LINES, YOU WILL HAVE TO MATCH UP THE LINES TO EACH CYLINDER. NO PICTURE WILL SHOW WHAT LINES GO WHERE.
By using two threads, your getting yourself confused on how to do things.
OK heres pics of the marks ,If they line up like this they cant be 180 out can it???
And If u spin it around 180 on the IP gear there's a slash mark should that line up with
O mark if it's turned
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