Injection Pump Bad? - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes) Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the 7.3 Liter In-Direct Injection Navistar engines.

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post #1 of 61 (permalink) Old 04-09-2017, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
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Injection Pump Bad?

I think my injection pump went out but I would like a second opinion. I think I've checked everything? The truck would not start this morning, cranks but no go. I have fuel on both sides of the filter head and all diesel, no air out of schraider valve. 12 volts on both terminals on ip pump. Loosened injector line and no squirts. Truck has 408,000 and ip pump has about 150,000 miles on it. The reason I'm looking for a second opinion is because I thought the ip would give me some warning it was wearing out.......
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post #2 of 61 (permalink) Old 04-09-2017, 06:18 PM Thread Starter
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Forgot to mention 1990 f250 7.3 idi
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post #3 of 61 (permalink) Old 04-09-2017, 07:31 PM
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Do you have fuel at the pump inlet? Right at the pump, not up at the filter. Chances are pretty good that you do, but eliminate all of the possibilities first. With fuel in, but not out, it's likely the pump has failed to perform its desired function. You might check the fuel shut off switch, see if it is performing its desired function. With the ignition switch on unplug the wire feedig it (driver's side at the top of the pump). See if you can feel or hear the valve operate, that is one thing that can fail without warning.

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post #4 of 61 (permalink) Old 04-09-2017, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the response. I did not check for fuel at the pump inlet but will tomorrow. I did check the fuel shutoff switch and I do hear it click.
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post #5 of 61 (permalink) Old 04-10-2017, 12:07 PM
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You don't get a squirt at the injector lines, just about less than a 10th of a teaspoon.

Is your glow plugs working as they should? Even at 70*F you should get a 4 to 5 second cycle.

The engine has to turn over around 300 RPM. Check your battery connections for corrosion. Clean the terminals and cable connectors.

At 408,000 miles, I would do a compression check. Low is 260 PSI and up to 450 PSI cold engine.

Are you getting white smoke out the exhaust when trying to start?

92 F350 Lariat, 2WD, Dualie, CC, LB, E4OD Trans, Banks Sidewinder turbo, GV O/U, Pyro, Boost, Oil temp, Trans temp. Chassis 129K, Engine 7.3L 75K. Bench seat.

"99.5 F350 7.3 PSD 4R100 CC LB 4X4 DRW 4:10 Centurion Conv.
ScanGaugeII SPDiesel Performance Module 40-60-80 HP -- A Pillar - Boost - Pyrometer - Trans.Temp. - Engine Oil Temp.GN Hitch 20K -- Reese 16K 5er Hitch - Draw Tite Brake Control - Aux. Trans. oil cooler - 100 Gal. Transfer Flow fuel tank, W/Trax II computer. DIY black bed liner. Red Knight
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post #6 of 61 (permalink) Old 04-10-2017, 12:56 PM
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One obvious thing to check is the FSS. Connect/disconnect it with the key in RUN, you should hear a distinct click from it.
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post #7 of 61 (permalink) Old 04-10-2017, 05:09 PM Thread Starter
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I did check the fss and there is 12 volts and it does make a click when I disconnect and reconnect.

Last night I was not getting any smoke or fuel smell. This morning I did get a little smoke and fuel smell but the batteries ran out. I put it on a battery charger and it's been charging all day and still not full. Maybe it wasn't spinning fast enough to purge air? My son is driving it and neither fuel gauge works. I use the trip meter and I make sure to fill it to the brim, I don't think he figured this out and may have ran out of fuel in the driveway? I switched to rear tank which I know is full and I'm waiting until the batteries are fully charged to try again. I've ran out before and always been able to restart without purging air. Two 30 second cranks with rest in between and it usually fires on the 3rd crank.

Thanks for the replies.
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post #8 of 61 (permalink) Old 04-10-2017, 05:15 PM Thread Starter
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Oh yea, I also discovered I have two gp's out. Should be here tomorrow. It's 78 here in Texas. I've had two out before and been able to start it when it's this warm.

To answer the question about compression, last time I checked it was at 277,000. IIRC they ranged from 430-450. I had one way off but it was a bad valve guide. Did a valve job and haven't checked it since.
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post #9 of 61 (permalink) Old 04-11-2017, 07:55 AM Thread Starter
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Full batteries, no luck this morning. Tried 3 times for 30 seconds, not even trying, no smoke, no fuel smell. What else could it be other than injection pump?
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post #10 of 61 (permalink) Old 04-11-2017, 10:57 AM
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When is the last time the fuel filter was changed?

Running a tank out of fuel, it takes a long time to purge the air out. Your problem is NOT the IP, it's the air in the system. Make sure no air is comiing out the filter at the schrader valve.

Your compression sounds like you have one hell'va engine at 277K miles, probable isn't much different at 408K miles. These are tough engines.

What GP's are you using? Autolite and Champion are prone to burn out quickly, Motorcraft/Beru is best, Wellman and then Bosch are next best.

92 F350 Lariat, 2WD, Dualie, CC, LB, E4OD Trans, Banks Sidewinder turbo, GV O/U, Pyro, Boost, Oil temp, Trans temp. Chassis 129K, Engine 7.3L 75K. Bench seat.

"99.5 F350 7.3 PSD 4R100 CC LB 4X4 DRW 4:10 Centurion Conv.
ScanGaugeII SPDiesel Performance Module 40-60-80 HP -- A Pillar - Boost - Pyrometer - Trans.Temp. - Engine Oil Temp.GN Hitch 20K -- Reese 16K 5er Hitch - Draw Tite Brake Control - Aux. Trans. oil cooler - 100 Gal. Transfer Flow fuel tank, W/Trax II computer. DIY black bed liner. Red Knight

Last edited by Trucker87; 04-11-2017 at 11:07 AM.
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post #11 of 61 (permalink) Old 04-11-2017, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
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Fuel filter was changed about 200 miles ago.

GP's are motorcraft.

What is the proper procedure for bleeding air out of the fuel system? I've had this truck for 10 years and never had to do anything other than crank the engine and let it purge itself.
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post #12 of 61 (permalink) Old 04-11-2017, 03:21 PM
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If you have 2 people have one depress the schrader valve at the filter head as the other cranks the starter. Remember the 30 second crank/ 2 minute rest. Keep the schrade valve closed when not cranking.

1 person: crank for 30 seconds, move quickly to the schrader valve and depress. Once pressure is gone, close valve and repeat.

We have had members run out of fuel and it's taken them a LONG TIME to purge the air. One trick is to fill the filter with fresh fuel.
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post #13 of 61 (permalink) Old 04-11-2017, 04:20 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, I have two people. I pressed it a couple days ago when this all started and some air did come out but then fuel. Should I do it for a bit after I get fuel?
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post #14 of 61 (permalink) Old 04-11-2017, 04:31 PM Thread Starter
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Can I check fuel pressure at the Schrader valve?
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post #15 of 61 (permalink) Old 04-12-2017, 07:16 AM
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The Schrader valve is nothing more than a tire valve. Once air gets in the system and you have solid fuel from the filter, each injector only spritz a tiny amount of air or fuel when cranking, loosen all the injector line nuts about two turns at the injectors, when fuel appears at any one, tighten that one or more (35 ft lbs) 5/8" wrench, usually after you get 4 or 5 showing fuel the truck will start. Do NOT use any starting fluid while the GP's are cycling. When your doing a lot of cranking to expel the air, disconnect the wire on the GP relay going to the GP's, that saves a lot of battery power, once started reconnect it.

92 F350 Lariat, 2WD, Dualie, CC, LB, E4OD Trans, Banks Sidewinder turbo, GV O/U, Pyro, Boost, Oil temp, Trans temp. Chassis 129K, Engine 7.3L 75K. Bench seat.

"99.5 F350 7.3 PSD 4R100 CC LB 4X4 DRW 4:10 Centurion Conv.
ScanGaugeII SPDiesel Performance Module 40-60-80 HP -- A Pillar - Boost - Pyrometer - Trans.Temp. - Engine Oil Temp.GN Hitch 20K -- Reese 16K 5er Hitch - Draw Tite Brake Control - Aux. Trans. oil cooler - 100 Gal. Transfer Flow fuel tank, W/Trax II computer. DIY black bed liner. Red Knight
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