Do they go out gradually or all at once. I ask this because in the last couple of months every once in a while my truck will not start back up even after it's been running all day and it's still warm. When it does this I 'll prime the intake w/ a little diesel and it starts and runs fine. So it's basically an intermitent problem. thanks
Sounds like an air leak into the engine fuel system allowing the fuel to drain off. The other problem could be a worn out IP, how many miles on it. How good are the batteries and starter, if it does not spin the engine fast enough you will get no start.....hot.
__________________ http://photos.thedieselstop.com/show...0/ppuser/28329
93 F250 7.3 IDI S/C XLT 4X4 E40D 3.55LS, Captains chairs, Tutone Mocha, Leer 48" Hiboy cap, FR & RR hitches, full DeeZee running boards. Factory ordered/delivered Jan 93 has 160K+, it's basically a stock truck with all the Ford options, just no disc player.
Toys: 26'Jayco FK TT, 18'Sylvan Pro Fish.
You have injection pump heat soak. Which means it's time for another pump. Next time it does this, take 12 ounces of room temperature water and pour it over the injection pump in the area where the injection lines connect. It will start right up. You had the right idea, but your pouring the liquid on the wrong part. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]
When you pour fuel into the intake you are bypassing the injection pump that controls the fuel going into the motor. It also has the govenor in it. Now think about an uncontrolled fuel entering the motor thru the open intake. The motor can and will overspeed. That means the motor will rev up with no controls on it way past the redline for the motor. When that happens the pistons and valves hit and thats usually the end of your motor. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif[/img]
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89 7.3 crewcab w/ Banks Sidewinder Wastegated Turbo. 4 inch straight piped. BTS E4OD trans with 2 extra gallons of ATF in a Mag Hy-Tec pan. Gear Vendors. Rodney Red custom aluminum radiator. Moose Pump with "G' injectors. Motor rebuilt with new after market ported heads. Mahle low comp pistons milled 12 thousands. Balanced to 1/4 to 1/3 gram. Lined bored. Block decked and sleeved on all 8. Shimed oil pump for higher pressure. Intake and exhaust logs ported too. Hypermax in shop waiting to be installed later....
I think I pinpointed the problem. My ignition switch went out completely yesterday. I think this was causing me not to have voltage to the ip solenoid. Should there be constant voltage to both solenoid terminals when the ign swtch is on?
You have three powered up IP solenoids on cold start then........
The Engine Temperature Switch provides voltage to the Cold Timing Advance Solenoid and the Cold Idle Solenoid. When the engine temperature is below 112 °F (44 °C), the Engine Temperature Switch is closed. When the Ignition Switch is turned to START or RUN, the solenoids are energized, advancing injection pump timing and engine idle, allowing the engine to run more smoothly when cold. When the engine temperature reaches 112 °F (44 °C), the Engine Temperature Switch opens. This denergizes the 2 solenoids, returning the timing and idle to normal.
The FSS is still activated until you shut off the ignition.
__________________ http://photos.thedieselstop.com/show...0/ppuser/28329
93 F250 7.3 IDI S/C XLT 4X4 E40D 3.55LS, Captains chairs, Tutone Mocha, Leer 48" Hiboy cap, FR & RR hitches, full DeeZee running boards. Factory ordered/delivered Jan 93 has 160K+, it's basically a stock truck with all the Ford options, just no disc player.
Toys: 26'Jayco FK TT, 18'Sylvan Pro Fish.
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