I am assuming you are talking about the Injector Pump (IP) timing gear. First of all, don't turn the gear or move it out of the spot where it is on the cam gear (that is unless it turns along with the whole motor)!!! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif[/img] If you get, or have gotten, the teeth on the IP gear and the cam gear out of time, you will have to pull the water pump and front cover in order to time the pump again.
Now if you have moved or taken the gear off already, you'll need to line the "Y" (I think it is) on the cam gear up with the one on the IP gear.
If you haven't started on it yet, don't take the gear cover case off with the IP (the cover that has the oil filler neck on it). Just take the little plate off the front and middle of that cover (two bolts I think). Then remove the three bolts in the center of the IP gear and slide the pump out (after you have all the other bolts off of course) being careful not to turn the gear (the gear might wiggle back and forth a little and that's okay).
When putting the pump back on, just line the dowel up on the IP and IP timing gear and replace the three timing gear bolts. (These three bolts I've talked about are not the same as the nuts that attach the IP to the gear cover case). Hope this helps (hope you can understand my giberish) and feel free to ask any other questions.
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If you get, or have gotten, the teeth on the IP gear and the cam gear out of time, you will have to pull the water pump and front cover in order to time the pump again.
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Actually, this isn't true. There is a very easy method of finding the correct teeth to match up the cam/injector pump timing gears, if you get them messed up.
Essentially, though, what the boys are telling you is correct. It is not necessary to remove the pump timing gear cover to change the pump. You access the 3 pump bolts from inside the cover plate (or the fill tube as Fred says) and once they are undone, the pump simply pulls out the back side of the cover, and the new one goes in exactly the same. There is a dowel pin, which must align inside there, and you'll see it. It isn't difficult.
IF, you remove the timing gear cover by accident, pm me, and I'll post the simple way to align the gears back up.
mine moved and I used a very small mirror to find the Y in the engine. Once you find it mark it with some paint and align the two back together. it was hard as hell to do but it worked for me.. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]
1993 F350 crew cab 7.3IDI 98k miles. soup bowl removed, IP replaced, new return lines, new lift pump, running clear fuel line on the return to filter, 2 new 1000cca batteries turn it real fast. Lesson learned if not broke dont fix it. I started doing prev maint on the truck and its been downhill ever since..
Pulling 1999 Ciera 2355 boat, all avail options and even ac. approx 8500lbs.
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I looked and looked and couldn't find a way to line them up exactly
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Ok, it's really quite simple.
Sounds a bit complicated but it's not.
On the injection pump gear, you need to find the "y" mark. Turn it so the "y" mark is down at the bottom. On either side of that mark count upwards 19 teeth. Mark a line across the front of the gear between the 19th tooth on each side up from the "y" mark. Next, mark a line up from the "y" mark through the center of the gear at exactly 90Deg to the first line.
Now, you have to turn the engine to TDC. (#1 piston at top of it's travel at compression stroke-must not be on exhaust stroke) Make sure the line on the balancer aims exactly at "0" on the timing plate(found down under the alternator.) If you are on exhaust rather than compression stroke, the timing will be out by 180 Degrees. The engine may run, but will be very difficult to start, smoke whitish like you wouldn't believe, and not have any discernable power.
Once you have all this done(sounds more complicated than it is.) the "y" mark on the camshaft gear will be at the top. You then drop the injection pump gear into place so that the "y" mark is on the bottom, and the vertical line is in the center of the detent in the front plate, and the horizontal line between the 2 teeth is exactly parallel to the top of the engine.
If you do this, it will be perfectly lined up. If you're out by even one tooth, nothing will line up. You'll see. Put the pump cover back on being careful not to lift/move the gear. Install the pump, and you're good to go.
It doesn't require dental mirrors or flashlights or any kind of pain. and only takes about 20 minutes or so.
If you have any problems, PM me, and I can walk you through it. I also have a complete engine apart in my shop right now if you need any more pics.
Thanks guys that's what I needed. I had to switch a 6.9 over to the 7.3 pump housing. and install a different pump. I also need to retime a 7.3 I've got apart. All the information I need shoud be here. Thanks, again.
1988 F250 7.3 diesel 4x4 auto C6 now ZF5
1990 F250 7.3 diesel 4x4 auto E4OD. now ZF5
1992 F250 7.3 diesel 4x4 ZF5
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