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7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes) Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the 7.3 Liter In-Direct Injection Navistar engines.

       
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Old 11-02-2006, 08:18 PM   #1 (permalink)
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injectors

do the injectors get any o-rings on them ?? and the caps onto of the injectors get 1 or 2 o-rings? i just want to make sure on all this so i can save a little money without messing anything up. this will be my first time changing glow plugs injectors and new injector return hose line kit. this will be going on a 93 f 250 3/4 4x4 with a 7.3 non turbo automatic i think it has 125 k on it
thanks for any help and tips that you may provide [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/phoney.gif[/img]
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Old 11-03-2006, 12:21 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Re: injectors

tocold4u2,

There's two "O" rings on each.

If the hose between the injectors is grey replace them before they start leaking, also replace the fuel line from filter to the injectors, and the piece going from the injectors to the return line. this will help prevent air from getting sucked in or fuel draining back to the tank.

Get a return line kit form Ford or IH - about $35.00 US, might be able to get a kit cheaper online. It has the hose, new caps, o-rings, and I think it comes with new clips and perhaps copper washers for the injectors but you don’t have to pull the injectors unless they need servicing.

Also, if you can get a hold of a small tube of Molykote 55 O-ring Lubricant made by Dow Corning – I think it’s about $13.00 on line. Use it on the O-rings before slipping them on the injector’s, also wipe a little inside the plastic cap before pushing that on. Good stuff - Slightly swells o-ring, compatible with plastics, operating temperature between – 65c (-85f) and + 165c (+329f). Should keep the o-rings from drying out and or sticking to the injector / plastic areas for a while. That way when you’re working on the engine a year or two from now and bump the lines around may be they wont start leaking again…

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Old 11-03-2006, 05:10 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Re: injectors

so the injector caps get 2 0-rings and the injector it`s self will get none . i hope it warms up a bit before i do this work
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Old 11-03-2006, 03:30 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Re: injectors

Both o-rings go on the injector, then the cap slides on over the o-rings - Read on...

Clean the top of the motor before removing fuel lines. I used compressed air and a small wire brush around the injector to remove loose dirt and scale. I would not spray the injector pump (IP) with water or pressure washer as damage may occur especially if the IP is hot.

After remove the injector lines cover the lines and injectors to prevent dirt from getting into them or you’ll plug an injector. Remove the return fuel line assembly as one piece if possible. The old o-ring are probably dried out, I pinched and pulled them off using only my fingers and – do not use anything hard or sharp to remove the o-ring or you might damage the injector. I think you can get brass o-ring picks for doing this – check around.

Replacing the o-ring: Coat the o-rings with Corning 55 O-Ring lubricant and slide them on the injector. Put the top one on first, then slide the bottom one over the top.

The return lines and caps: Cut all lines to match the old ones that you removed (that’s why you should try to remove the old one as intact as possible). Put the whole return line assembly together. Using a little o-ring lubricant on the nipple (on the cap) that the fuel line slides onto will make putting the line on a little easier. Remember to slide the clamps on before you put the hoses on the caps or you have to pull them a part again!

Before you push the caps on: Put a light coating of Corning 55 O-Ring lubricant on the o-rings and the inside of the injector return line caps. slide the caps on get them all started on the injectors then go through and gently push them on with your fingers – you will feel them pop into place. Once the return line have been replaced hook the injector lines back up and torque them to your engines / IP specifications.

Some people leave a one (sometimes a few) injector lines loose and turn the engine over a few times to get the air out. I tightened the lines and it started fine after about 10 seconds so try it either way just don’t crank your motor for more than 20 seconds at a time and then let the starter cool for a ½ hour so before trying again.

Here's what a kit looks like - [image]http://www.dieselpage.com/pics/dlk73.jpg[/image]

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Old 11-03-2006, 08:57 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Re: injectors

There's a copper washer that fits over the tip of the injector when installing the injector.
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Old 11-03-2006, 11:24 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Re: injectors

Yes there is a copper compression washer, but if you don't remove the injectors (and i wouldn't unless there is something wrong) you do not need to change this.

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