IP timing

[zukinut]

Jus wondering how you advance the timing on the IP. I read about yall doing it but im curious how.

Next, how do you tell its right. Do you use a timing light, play it by ear, special tools.

Also, there is a link to how to install an IP. Ive searched but i cant find it. Can somebody help with that to.

Thanks in advance.

Will

[cdnsarguy]

Sent you an email re R&R...

The only way to tell if the timing is right is to have it timed by a pro. However old IP and worn out injectors are not worth timing $$$$ if it runs OK.

You need to line up the scribe mark on the pump flange with the scribe mark on the pump gear housing. That's essentially it to start with. Hopefully the gear housing hasn't been removed, 'cause if it has it is possible the pump timing gear has been moved, and it is very difficult(but not impossible) to get it back to the right spot.

On the housing that's mounted on the top front of the engine where the pump bolts into, There is a small line about 1/4" long stamped into the rear/upper face of the housing just where the pump would mate to the housing. Likewise, on the pump almost at exactly the same spot on the flange of the pump where it bolts to the housing is a similar line scribed into onto the top of the pump flange.

The idea is that when you put the pump into the housing on the engine, and if you have those two marks lined up such that the almost form one 1/2" Long line, then the timing will be close enough that the engine should start and run. This is known as static timing.

Dynamic timing via luminosity (6.9) is done where a probe is put into the cylinder, and actually sees the light from the explosion of the fuel, and the timing is set accordingly. The 7.3 timing tool uses a pulse from the #1 injector line.

Some of us set the timing by "ear". This comes from some experimentation and experience.
I like mine so that when the engine is cold, as the cold advance is on, the engine rattles pretty loud, but once the cold advance drops off, then the rattle smooths out and the engine is much more quiet. If you have it too advanced, then it makes that loud rattle all the time, often accompanied by lots of black smoke, and if too retarded, will sound kinda flat most of the time, lack power, and often not smoke at all, or may even smoke greyish/whitish(unburned fuel).
When you are standing at the front of the truck facing the engine, if you turn the pump couterclockwise(top of the pump to the passenger side) you'll be advancing the timing, and obviously clockwise will retard the timing.


Zigg

[farmfuel]

I went to the injector shop, and he said he just sets them by ear. He showed me those two scribe lines that cdnsarguy was talking about. he said "with the motor OFF, grab a 3/4 open end wrench, and use it to turn the pump". (the spot is on the top of the IP) from the pass side fender, pull the wrench toward you, and the spacing from the static point scribe lines, you should have a gap about the width of a nickel. You'll need a friend to tighten up the pump mounting bolts, cause you're fighting 8 metal lines, and it's all you'll be able to do to hold it in place. Plus, you'll need a 9/16 wrench with a 15*/ 60* open end wrench to get to that bottom pump mounting bolt. No way to do it without it. I bought my wrench set from snap on, and I have no clue where else to get them. I used to work on airplanes, and they were real helpful, but I've heard of a/c mechanics also having them.

[94_turbo]

ear timing is ok to get running, and if you just put a diff pump on---but not for the long haul--youll either have no power---or like i had---tooooo much advance---and i kept taking out glow plugs--most shops that have the right tools--only charge 20.00 or so---is it worth timing by ear?????????

[Mr_Roboto]

Don't rely on the timing marks for more than the initial timing to get the motor started.

I've always timed them by ear - but then I time gassers by ear too (the ones that you can still time).

[zukinut]

I time gassers by ear, but ive doin that for a number of years. I have no idea what to be listening for.

Ill call some shops and see if i intstall the pump if they will time it. Im just tryin to save some money.

Will

[Mr_Roboto]

Very few shops will have the tools to time an International IDI.

Basically you want to time it so that it has a hard diesel knock with the cold timing advance on, and a light diesel knock with the advance off. If the motor is quiet like a gasser it's too far retarded.

If the motor knock gets very loud under acceleration or at highway speeds it needs to be retarded a little.

I had one I bought that sounded like it had a bad bearing on the highway. I was afraid to take it over 50 mph. Once I backed off the timing a little all was good.

[russellmead10]

I'm short on power with the truck I just bought (even short on power the price was way too good to not grab). Should I try adjusting the timing? It sounds like a diesel when running modestly, but when I get on the throttle it seems gutless compared to what I'd expect. It gets awfully smooth and quiet when I'm over 2/3 throttle at any rpm. The injectors and IP could be 84k overdue, or have 16k of life left. It has yet to smoke at all, including when starting cool(40deg outside). Is this maybe retarded timing? If the timing is retarded would that make it easier to start? Limited maintenance used to let in lots of air until I got the truck a few weeks ago, and I'm not sure if the cold start advance is working (is there a simple way to check?), so it wouldn't surprise me if the previous guy had done cheap jury-rigged methods to get it started for his local driving.

I suppose I should probably replace the injectors and IP (though I can't afford an IP at the moment) but if it doesn't need it I'd hate to swap good parts for good parts.