What are the downsides of letting a 88 7.3 idle for hours to charge batteries for a house in the woods on blended fuel and dino diesel(to warm up).I will also post in alt fuels section.
Is the alternator/charge system capable of charging more than 2 batteries at a time at between 600-700 rpm(idle engine I think)?
Thank you in advance, Rob
__________________ 1992 F-250 7.3 IDI2wd Auto 156000 miles
Blended user w/rear tank/Front tank reg-diesel.
DSE Blend in rear tank.
20 gal WVO/2 gal kero/1 gal gas/15 oz. Diesel kleen/3.5 oz. DSE Used Blend from 144,000 miles. Sold , but a friend has it,so I will keep it in signature. 1988 F-250 7.3 IDI4wd non turbo c6 auto crew cab. w/ 136500
Blended DSE fuel in rear tank.Started 2-25-08 @ 132000 miles.Changed O-rings,rubber fuel lines,cleaned injectors,changed fuel and air filter.Changed Wiper motor 4-4-08.Cleaned injectors again 10-1-08 136000 miles.11-4-08-Changed all fuel line clamps and glow plugs(Wellman) 1991 F-250 7.3 IDI 2wd non-turbo,E4OD,181,000 miles.Started DSE blend in front tank 11-14-08.Changed air filter, injector to injector line fuel hoses from 5/16 to 1/4".Was a truck of a fleet manager of an oil company.Has a tommygate lift.All service records from 1991!
You'll want to step the idle up to about 1000rpm somehow, stick holding the throttle or whatever. Since these things have such low oil pressure at idle, there are stories of cam lobes and lifters failing from excessive idling. 1000 rpm should raise your oil pressure to 20+ psi. Also the alternator will work better at a higher engine speed.
__________________
1986 F250 2WD Super Cab XLT Lariat w/ 1996 front clip. Dually bed & van rearend (2" wider, allows spring clearance). 6.9 w/ approx 120,000mi. Banks non-wastegated turbo system, Beru ZD1A glowplugs, Delphi BB injectors, Kenworth pyrometer, vac/boost gauge, electric water temp/oil psi/voltmeter mounted in dash. 3" Mandrel-bent open exhaust. C6 trans, 3.54 gears. Okiegringo idler pulley. R134a A/C conversion. WMO/diesel blend in one tank.
Buy a Honda EX800 generator or similar and use a battery charger to charge batteries..... it will also run all the lights you need......
__________________ http://photos.thedieselstop.com/show...0/ppuser/28329
93 F250 7.3 IDI S/C XLT 4X4 E40D 3.55LS, Captains chairs, Tutone Mocha, Leer 48" Hiboy cap, FR & RR hitches, full DeeZee running boards. Factory ordered/delivered Jan 93 has 160K+, it's basically a stock truck with all the Ford options, just no disc player.
Toys: 26'Jayco FK TT, 18'Sylvan Pro Fish.
DONT charge batts with your truck--the alt aint made for it--if it runs anywhere near 70%--you run the risk of burning it---and a small gene will use much less fuel than your truck---
__________________
94 f250 idi turbo sc e4od alum fac rims 149,289 --dana 60 frt with posi--10.25 rear w/posi--shouldnt get stuck!! ats turbo 3" parts on--what a diff from stock turbo!!!!!--- also 96 F250 with 305,000 is fixed!!-- 7.3 rattler-also 85 6.9-needs new engine!! tired!!
Personally I'd build a generator using an old lawnmower engine and a junkyard alternator.
If you can find an old self-propelled push mower they already have a belt drive off the shaft. Pull off the blade, fab a couple brackets for the alternator and you have a cheap generator on wheels.
__________________
1985 International rollback, 6.9L 5 speed "Li'l Big Truck"
Stupid question.. If this is the case (that damage can occur), why do the big 18 wheeler diesel trucks do this all the time in the truck stops up and down the 5 freeway in central California and elsewhere? They pull over in the truck stops and run their engines while they catch some shut-eye.. It's not just one or two but dozens at a time.. Are their engines designed for that?
on the BIG trucks. most of the big ones now are going to dual gen units on board,heat,cool and even keeps the block heater going. so no more idling. some states are making a law for no extended idling. as what was said above the diesels last longer working at specifed rpms.
The Semis Have A Set Up In Their Cruise Control System That You Can Raise The Rpm, And Set It There, Most Will Do That Rather Than Just Let It Idle.
__________________
EARLY 99 F350, CREW CAB, LONG BED. 4X4 7.3L AUTOMATIC. EDGE JUICE W/ ATTITUDE. 4" EXHAUST, NO MUFFLER, 6" TIP, COLD AIR INTAKE, "THROTTLE BODY SPACER" (ACTUALLY JUST AN INSERT IN THE INTERCOOLER LINE TO ROTATE THE AIR, probably doesnt even really work). BD: CCV KIT (WON ONLINE, THANK YOU BD). DVD PLAYER, PS2, IN DASH TV, POWER INVERTER, 2-10" INFINITY SUBS IN PORTED BOX. CLASS 5 REESE TOW PACKAGE, FLIP UP GOSENECK HITCH. CB/PA, WITH DUAL TRUCKER WHIPS. TOW MIRRORS, AND CAB LIGHTS, BUG GUARD AND WINDOW VISORS. 285/75 BFG ALL-TERRAINS, SHACKLE LEVELING KIT, AND BILSTIEN SHOCKS.
SOON TO COME: 33X12.50 BFG ALL TERRAINS ON BLACK DICK CEPEK 17" RIMS, EDGE EVOLUTION PROGRAMMER (STACKED), RAPTOR HIGH PERFORMANCE FUEL PUMP, HIGH PERFORMANCE HPOP, POSSIBLY 10" STACKS!
excesivly long idle periods will glaze the cylinder walls of any diesel engine also big trucks have programming in the ecm that cuts the engine off after 5 minutes (the epa's idea)
They pull over in the truck stops and run their engines while they catch some shut-eye.. It's not just one or two but dozens at a time.. Are their engines designed for that?
No, the supposed "damage" is over-rated. Even before big engines had a fast idle feature guys would idle them overnite (for the heater) while in the sleeper, etc, with no ill effects. I drove a cattle truck out of Oregon some years back and two drivers would let their trucks idle for 4 hours while we got loaded, and like other guys who do the same all over the country, the only damage was blue smoke for the first 100 yards when they took off.
I don't know how many horsepower would be required to run an alternator big enough for your needs, but there is a local truck puller with a very strong truck in the altered class who runs a 5HP briggs in the bed which powers his alternator on a belt. When he flips the switch to charge once the motor is running you can hear it bog the pony motor down considerably. This is only with a 70A alternator I assume.
__________________
1994 Ford F250 4x4: 7.3L IDI factory turbo, supercab longbed, E4OD *DEAD*. ZF5 swap,Dana 60 swap, GM 14 bolt rear w/ 4.10s, 4" exhaust from stock downpipe back to a 5" stack, IP maxed=1100 degrees max pulling uphill, "modified" wastegate=11psi max,99+ F450SD cab/chassis leaf springs in rear
--motor/trans sold--
2000 VW Jetta TDI = 48+mpg
1997 Dodge 3500: 2WD Cab & Chassis, 12V Cummins, 47RE Automatic, Dana 80, 194,000mi. Parting out.
1989 12V VE Cummins out of Chevy C60? at the machine shop...going into the Ford.
I built one of those briggs powered gens years back. Used a GM "1 wire" alternator and put in volt and amp meters. Used it to charge my racecar between rounds. These days i use it to quick charge dead batteries etc. Running a small (forget the HP) side shaft with roughly 1:1 pulley ratio. Anyway the point is they're pretty cheap to put together and will cost far less in the long run in fuel savings as well as no wear on your truck. Before the 90 amp GM alternator I used the original alt out of the mustang, had to rig a trigger switch to get it to start charging.
Linear Mode
