The IDI neither needs nor uses any input from the PCM to start and run, so I believe your no-start condition is caused by a bad contact in the engine harness - check those connectors inside the engine on the driver-side of the firewall, maybe you knocked something loose accidentally?
The other problem is caused by the PCM entering "limp-home" mode, essentially if you throw the switch on and lock the converter whenever the PCM commands it to be open this will be interpreted as an electrical failure and the PCM will switch to failure-management aka "limp-home" mode and you will only have 2nd and 4th unlocked. It's a hit or miss deal, some trucks don't do this but many do, so I guess that makes your situation sorta part of the norm. To avoid this when you want to manually control the lockup you need to have the PCM connection severed from the lockup solenoid harness and you need to feed the PCM a "dummy" signal. Stay tuned for a wiring diagram for this...
Trying to find a single point failure that could cause these problems. After sleeping it over, decided it had to be one of the trans connectors. Got up this morning and reseated both connectors and went out for a drive....WOWWWWWWWWW!!!! This is how life should have been all along.
1. Trans shifted better than new.
2. Worked great with and without the GV Over/Under engaged.
3. Light comes on every time TC locks, automatically or manually with the switch.
4. TC Locks automatically at 10 mph on acceleration from stop.
5. Love, Love, Love the torque.
6. Engine was extremely cool (Below 'N' on gauge)
7. Trans ran extremely cool 140-150 degrees!
Can't wait to get 'er loaded up and see how she does on the next trip!
The only possible drawback I can see is the light (LED) stays on dimly when the key is off. It shouldn't draw enough current to drain the battery, but I'll monitor it over the next few days to see. If it does, I guess I'll disconnect that part of the mod, bit it's nice to be able to see when the TC is locked or unlocked both manually and automatically.
Thanks to everyone for their help... I still love my truck, even when she's not doing what she's supposed to.
Kevin
__________________ '94 F350 Dually 7.3 IDI E4OD Rebuilt in 2007 Banks Sidewinder Turbo (Wastegate disconnected) & Trans Command, 3.5" Exhaust Gear Vendors Over/Under Auxilary Trans Gambler 209 (THE Ultimate Bass Boat +80mph on GPS) Lance 880 Camper
>Got up this morning and reseated both connectors and went out for a drive..
I keep telling folks, pull the plugs and reinstall and all will be good. No one ever listens......
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Regards,
Paul - Pocono Mtns. USA
02 E350 15 Passenger, 52,000 Miles
'90 E350 7.3L Ex-Ambulance High Top 400K Miles, No Turbo, Stock Stock stock, No ELC! (Extended Life Coolant) & 10 Oz. Bars Stop Leak, Retired 11/8/2011 with blown trans.
It's a great mod! I just got back from a 400 mile trip, trans worked great. Never got above 200 (but I have two coolers up front), even on some hard pulls. I think I might have been close to Chuckster territory (central CA)? Paso Robles . A couple of long hard pulls on the northbound 101. Was nice having the engine braking coming back home. I also put in some lights, a red light when locked-up and a green light when 'normal'.
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92 F350 XLT Crewcab dually, 225K miles ATS turbo, 4 inch exhaust, fresh IP & new matched BB injectors, Holly Red pump, K&N, E40D, 2 aux coolers, A-pillar guages, 410 limited-slip rear, Rancho 9000s, towing package, full running boards, mud flaps, 94' Ford (Alcoa) aluminum wheels, Predator camper shell, 600 watts of Sony/Boston Acoustics! Complete engine rebuild at 176k miles. Ford reman E4OD at 204k miles.
2001 Komfort 26FS My Truck
A few days later, but I've been pretty busy here, so sorry for the delays:
When you cut the purple/yellow wire and extend it to the cab the end that comes from the transmission is marked in red in my diagram, and the end that goes to the PCM is in blue. Parts in gray are optional - red LED will light up when converter locks up, green LED comes on when you switch to factory PCM control.
It's a great mod! I just got back from a 400 mile trip, trans worked great. Never got above 200 (but I have two coolers up front), even on some hard pulls. I think I might have been close to Chuckster territory (central CA)? Paso Robles . A couple of long hard pulls on the northbound 101. Was nice having the engine braking coming back home. I also put in some lights, a red light when locked-up and a green light when 'normal'.
You were a little south of my area. I am up closer to Stockton/Sacramento.
M.L.S.C. Looks like I might do this mod when I get home and have access to my tools and stores that I know will have the stuff I need. A few posts back you said that I could just tap into the purple/yellow wire, but it might cause issues. I have decided that the other side of the country is not the place to find out the PCM puts it in limp mode, Thanks again for all your help.
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1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD,4:10 L/S, LB, Dually Photos
ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
1997 Jayco 323RKS fifth wheel w/2 slides, Air Lift 5000 bags
Pillar pod: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost, water, oil pressure
Hypermax Cowl induction, K&N air filter, flex-a-lite 26K trans cooler with fan,Tekonsha prodigy
Train Horns: Pictures here
Yeah, it's a ground wire, I just labeled it "12V to ground" since that's a pic of the switch wiring and you gonna measure 12V at its terminal. Just run it to a good ground and you'll be fine. I highly suggest the switch be mounted on the shifter, makes the whole converter <-> OD button shuffle a whole lot easier
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