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Re: Looking for ATS Turbo installation Instructions & Tips
The order you do things in will make a big difference in how easy it is.
Some things to note. You will have a hard time changing glow plugs and return lines after the turbo is on so do the basic tune up now.
The return lines/caps need to be routed away from the back passenger side as much as possible, and you will be disturbing them during the install, so definantly change them before your do the install. They frequently leak after being disturbed. Try changing them to a factory turbo configuration which crosses over from the passenger side to the drivers side in front of the intake manifold.
The oil feed for the turbo comes from behind the intake manafold right next to your firewall. You may have a presure sensor there at the moment. They may provide a hard line to make the connection, but I found mine was damaged, so I rigged a flex braided line to feed the turbo. I also included a connection for a mechanical oil pressure gauge so I know my oil pressure at a critical point going to the turbo. I have foudh this to be much easier to deal with and looks Cool to.
When you get the turbo, it may have the mount/oil return connected. It is easy to get this off once the engine is pulled out but nearly impossible to put in in one piece without several hands, so disassemble the two parts and put the mount/bracket on by its self. Put the Y pipe on, and then mount the turbo to both.
The Y pipe and the cross over pipe are bolted to the stock exaust manifolds so don't take them off. Just remove your exaust up to that point. There is a little tab that goes on the bolt between the cross over pipe and the Y pipe on the passengers side. That hangs the down pipe, so don't forget it, ore be ready to manufacture one.
The Stock turbo and down pipe were strangly restrictive, so if the down pipe looks "Formed". Get the ATS upgrades so it can breathe.
You will be removing your PCV valve from behind your intake and placing the turbo mount there. The PCV is then moved to your drivers side valve cover, so try and get it. You may want to do a road draft tube "RDT" instead.
I am about to reassemble my setup and will try to come up with more as I put it back together.
Oh!, Get a Pyrometer. I had a muffler shop weld a bung into my cross over pipe just below the drivers rear cylinder. That is the one which gets hot so I hope it is in a good place. You will learn to tune the thing by watching boost+Exaust Gass Temps "EGT". Timing seems to make a huge difference in the amount of temps you will generate. Huge discussions have occured over tuning, but I like running a bit less advanced timing and upping the fuel/boost. I can't really say if I get the most power, but I don't have issues with EGT's either. I have also found that gearing is important to keep the RPM's down around 2000 RPM's. Some like more, some less.
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86 F-350 2-wd, Crewcab longbed with 90's 7.3 turbodiesel, 5 speed with transfer case for 4-wd, 3.55 rear end, Ranch-Hand rear bumper with welded on receiver hitch, leather seats, custom leather steering wheel, complete AC conversion (not modified R12 componets, works GOOD), 40G tank, holley red fuel pump, ATS upgrades, Racor fuel filter, tinted windows, good rubber, all gauges replaced, wood dash insert holding aftermarket gauges, Kenwood stereo. Needs some body work and paint, but a solid daily driver. Has been my daily driver for last few years. Mileage unknown due to the speedometer change. Truck bed is from a newer model truck. Items in the bed come with the truck and include a 40 gallon tank (not hooked up), airflow tailgate and service ramps.
Pictures avalialible at http://leefrankpierce.homedns.org/cgi-bin/full_thumbls
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