Lots of noise and a dead truck - Diesel Forum

RugerNorth · 03-17-2005, 11:20 PM

Help!

I purchased a truck today and it died half way home, a 600 mile trip. The truck is a '88 with a 7.3 IDI non turbo. The previous owner claims to have replaced the fuel pump, alternator and rad (far as I can tell he's not lying). The truck ran great for 350km then all at once a popping sound started. I pulled over and at idle it sounded like like a stuck valve, I have no idea if that's even possible. It sounded like air rushing some where it shouldnt and happened at an even rate that would be about the same as a cylinder firing. I don't know how much power loss came with it cause I let off the throttle right away. I did spool it up to about 2000 rpm and the popping sound got louder and then a knocking sound started. When I started it after it cooled for a while white smoke was coming out in the area of the intake (I couldnt nail down for sure if it was coming out the intake or out a gasket).
No other obvious signs, all the fluids appear clean and where they should be and it started with no trouble.
The po mentioned that the cams had been changed a while back due to a failed retaining clip. Does that make any sense? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]

Have I just purchased an 8000lb boat anchor?

What manuals are recommended? Preferably something that would guide me all the way through an overhaul.

I had to leave the truck and hitch a ride home. To rescue the thing I'll need to tow it 300km (about 180 miles). Any advice?

R0oster06 · 03-18-2005, 12:29 AM

chilton is what i use works fine not sure about a complete over hual haynes wont show it complete. look on ebay for factory service manual for tech's should cost about 10 bucks. pete can tell you what he uses cndarguy( i think thats it) his manuals have gotten me through some of the thicker problems of my rig

d9d · 03-18-2005, 01:13 AM

Hate to say it, but it sounds like a head-gasket.

White smoke may be coolant. You (wisely) didn't run it long enough to see any noticeable drop in coolant level.

Might be something simpler/cheaper tho, so don't despair until the experts have checked in.

For manuals, the factory manuals are the way to go; but run around 80-100 bucks usually. At least, I've never seen them for less.

Wiring diagrams can be found via the link in my sig.

Pete (cdnsarsguy) has quite a bit of material at his site; but I don't think it includes "full overhaul". On the other hand, you shouldn't need that.

One thing that bothers me is that "knocking" sound you mentioned....but hopefully there's an innocent explanation for that.

8000 lb anchor? Not if the rest of the truck is nice. Even if you trashed the block or crank, you can find used decent running take-out motors for 750 bucks if you look around. That, and a day to swap 'em, and you're on the road again. Painful, but not a total loss.

good luck, and keep us posted.

yaric008 · 03-18-2005, 01:38 AM

I'd say take the valve covers off and look for something, maybe a push rod sticking through a rocker. Whatever it is doesn't sound good, but the failed retaining clip deal kinda sounds suspcious. Maybe the new retaining clip wasn't installed right either.

olivera149 · 03-18-2005, 02:14 AM

id say something in the retaing clip is suspect. How long ago was the clip changed out. Agree with Yari, i think hes on to something.

--Ryan

d9d · 03-18-2005, 02:56 AM

whups...I missed the bit about the retainers when I first read the post. You guys may be right.

oohh...I don't think spinning it up to 2k was such a good idea...

Let's hope the piston's just dented a bit...

The white smoke around the top of engine area doesn't jibe with a dropped valve tho, does it? I've never dropped one, so I don't know the symptoms first-hand.

argve · 03-18-2005, 05:07 AM

Could be a number of things...

A knocking will only last so long then something wins the fight and the loser has a nasty habit of poking it's head out the side of the block to say hello - Been there done that...

I vote take off the valve cover to have a peek.

If you don't see anything out of place I would yank the intake manifold to have a look see at the lifters. Then after that I would be yanking the engine getting it on a stand to tear the heads off. Yes you can do them in the engine bay but it's not gonna be fun. I have yanked them in the engine bay and on the stand. I'll choose the stand any day of the week - really it's not that much more work.

Keep us posted on what's going on/what you find.

Now for service manuals www.helminc.com

There you can get FACTORY SERVICE MANUALS - these will be worth their weight in gold, but check ebay first - sometimes they pop up but watch their prices on flea-bay sometimes guys drive them up used to what they cost brand spanking new [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif[/img]

Fred Hemer · 03-18-2005, 08:07 AM

I vote take off the valve cover to have a peek.
I think ya my have droped a valve.
I'm with Mel!

ENUSYELLSAW · 03-18-2005, 09:59 AM

While you are waiting for your factory manuals to come in, you can go to a auto parts store and get the Haynes "DIESEL ENGINE REPAIR MANUAL". It actually has a lot of good info in it and it will get you started [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]----MUCH LUCK!!!---ENUS.

d9d · 03-18-2005, 01:49 PM

The 7.3's usually drop a valve because the 2nd gen valve-seals cut off ALL the oil to the stems, correct?

Can anyone tell me if they ever came out with a THIRD gen valve seal to fix that problem ??

If so, what year did they start using the 3rd-gen seals in production?

I'm gettin' a little worried about this '91....

cdnsarguy · 03-18-2005, 01:52 PM

Rugernorth you talking KMs where are you dude..........Put info in your signature too.

Don't sell the farm just yet, you could have any number of medium sized problems. I would take the air filter assy off and listen while just cranking the engine over, if you have a loud woof woof sound from the intake, that could be stuck intake valve. Other than that it could be a simple injector stuck open etc etc etc.....

To crank the engine without a start remove the fuel shutoff solenoid wire see my gallery........

Read this info too, but this is just so you know what can happen, not what has happened ok.... clicky

agnem · 03-18-2005, 02:42 PM

Can we assume you got a tailight warranty on this truck? Get it home first, and we'll go from there.

RugerNorth · 03-18-2005, 10:12 PM

Cdnsarguy,

I'm in Ft. McMurray AB. The truck came from Calgary and broke down about half way.
I'm catching a lift with a friend tomorrow. I'll have a look and if I can I'll drive it back, if not it'll be an all day trek on the Grey Dog home.
The friend I'm catching a ride with in a gas mechanic. He said that the old Corvairs would occasionally blow out a spark plug and it sounded catostrophic, a lot like mine did.
I'll be taking an injector and a glow plug with me, the injector more just for good luck. The PO mentioned that they had trouble with leaking injectors and that one may have come loose.
I suppose that it makes sense to start with the cheapest to the most expensive:
Glow plug
Injector
Valve cover removal:
Stuck rocker arm
Bent lifter
Displaced lifter

What tools should not be left behind on this expedition?

cdnsarguy · 03-18-2005, 11:41 PM

May be the leaking injectors because the copper seal was not installed, take 8 extras with you if you can. So you must be north of Edmonton around Westlock. I have no knowledge of any TDS members up there. If you intend to tow it I would recommend you disconnect the drive shaft, niether the ZF5 or the E40D like being towed and serious damage would be done on that far a tow rear wheels down.

agnem · 03-19-2005, 08:30 AM

If an injector or glow plug blew out, I sure hope it was because it let it's insides loose, and there are still good threads there. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif[/img]