Lots of White and Grey smoke on cold start!

[seacow]

When I start my truck in the morning even with it plugged in, after i crank it for about 3 seconds it fires but runs really ruff and blows massive amounts of white and grey smoke and shakes horrifically. After bout 10 seconds it smooths out and runs fine. I noticed that my return line of the fuel filter seems wet, and my return lines off the #1 injetor over to the ip is saturated with fuel as well as the line that runs to the next injector in the passanger side bank. All other lines dry and no signs of leaking.

Plan is to go ahead and replace all glow plugs as well as new injector return line kit (current one is 5 to 6 years old), new lift pump (seeing how it has never been replaced) and should i replace the return lines that go back to the as well? Should I pull the injectors while I am at it and take a peek at them? Anything else i should do while i have things are somewhat easy to get to? Am i on the right track with solving this hard to start issue?

[rotaryboots]

You're on the right track as far as replacing the seals and new plugs and hoses. I replaced my engine hoses with clear diesel fuel safe line so I can also check to see if I'm getting any air in the lines. Air intrusions will make the engine act this way so getting all the leaks fixed may fix that problem. Since injectors are a little more expensive I'd say have them checked/tested by a diesel shop first. Most shops charge hardly anything to test injectors and some shops can clean them too.

[seacow]

Well, I have now seemed to have developed a huge fuel leak that is running down near my starter and bell housing on to the ground. I have no idea where this is coming from and can seem to find it. anyone got any ideas. and where can i get diesel safe fuel clear fuel line??

[thefred]

I just dealt with this problem on my 88 7.3 IDI, my problem was that on the top of the injector....where the o ring and caps are. They are on top of the motor right on top of the injector..if you turn them a bit you will see what i mean. Under that cap is two o rings and they feed the fuel back to the tank....i got a injector installation kit...which came with all new rings...caps, clamps and fuel line....did that and that totally did the trick..no more fuel leak and i starts better in the morning. Be sure that when you put the caps on the top of the injectors you lubricate the ringswith diesel ...or diesel oil and put the cap on straight...if you put them slightly crooked you will cut the rong and have a leak...i made this mistake. Dont and i repeat dont go to ford because it will cost you twice as much to do the job.....also fairley easy to do if you take your time and go slow. Oh yeah and my fiel leak was exactly where yours is. Good luck keep us all posted on your findings. Also when you check for the fuel leak..take off the cleaner so that you can see all of the fiel lines behind it...the leak could not be at the cap but at the line itself..good luck.

[cdnsarguy]

Is the fast idle set (850rpm) with key on before start and working....

Here is how to....
First disconnect steel injector line cap nuts, "do not bend lines" but move them away individually enough to just get the return line caps off as a complete set per side.
After removal of the complete return cap and lines sets, build new sets identical. To remove old orings use a dental or oring pick with a razor knife, do not mark the injector body. When installing orings use lots of grease and roll first one into top groove, then roll second over that to bottom groove. When installing the new lines and caps use grease inside the cap and on orings, place them on respective injectors and gently push straight down until it pops into place on the orings. Install the line capnuts 22ftlbs torque. There should be a small space between the return cap and line capnut when finished, any major leaks mean caps are not seated or orings are cut or line cap nut is not tight. I have done several sets and found bleeding 1-2 injectors at a time on opposite side the best. Tighten lines then place fuel pedal to floor and fast idle and timing advance on, crank for 15 seconds max, then 2 minute cool down....mine started after 4th injector was on line.
Note when cranking engine and bleeding there will only be a slight amount of fuel/bubbles seen, no major squirting gysers, that only happens with engine running at idle RPM.

Parts....
( return line kits/ injector install kit )
6.9 Ford Diesel parts Fuel Injection Turbocharger
7.3 L Ford Diesel Fuel Injectors Fuel Pumps Accessories

Air leak and other good info....
Ford diesel 6.9 7.3 IDI

[thefred]

Thats funny...when i did my injector installation kit...it just fired right up after i put everything on.....i put on the first 4 just as you described...started it for a min...then did the other 4 so that starting would nto be a problem..with doing this i didnt have to bleed the lines at all...just snugged them up and i was done. i guess i lucked out.

[vlamica]

Question: If an injector is bleeding down after about 3 days would the symptom be extended crank? or would it fire right up and run rough till it clears out that cylinder and builds pressure in the injector again. When its cold outside mine will fire up but run rough / shake and belch out black smoke until you hear the pitch of the injectors change and then it clears right up and idles at the 850rpm. One injector or? Why the black smoke unless the fuel chamber is full of fuel... ideas?

[6.9 Non-Turbo Lover]

My suggestion is install an electric pump aka push pump because whats happening is with a rotor ip it runs off the engine to pump the fuel and your motor isn't getting the fuel until it runs a moment.

[Plywood]

Vlamica, I've heard that if your timing too is far advanced you will get black smoke.

That change in pitch in your injectors is when the engine reaches 110 degrees and the "cold advance" turns off so it kind of makes sense.

When your cold advance turns off it retards the timing by two degrees.

[Plywood]

Vlamica, another thought, If you run thick 30w oil, maybe it takes a moment for the Turbo to get spinning when cold and give the cylinders sufficient air, lack of air will cause black smoke.

How long till it runs right, a couple of seconds or a few minutes?

[vlamica]

Ok guys.. good info.

Now when I start the truck cold i set the pump so the fast idle is on... when the glow lite goes out (and its cold out) the truck will fire right up and run on 6-7 cylinders (feels like it anyways) and idle slow then with a rap the idle will pick up to the 850 and it smooths right out. So.. it seems like its getting too much fuel.. I have already pulled out all the glowplugs and checked them with a battery. They all glow nicely and complete. I back to thinking about the injectors.

[Plywood]

In that case I think I would agree.

One thing though, I was told never to test the GPs outside the truck with a battery since there is no metal around them to regulate their temp, they can be damaged to some degree even if they still work, Who Knows, makes sense though.

[vlamica]

Good point on the GP test. I did make sure that once I saw them glowing to the full range i stopped and disconnected. Im not sure how much they actually glow in the chamber or if the controller allows them to glow that much but they were all relatively new and working.

Vinnie

[Plywood]

I'm sure they're fine, don't mean to give you an ulser or anything, but an ohm test on them is free and then you can rule that out.
If everything was the same before and after the out of engine test, than that of course is not your existing problem.