I got the slave cylinder back in place after moving it to ispec and lube the fork & pilot bearing now I think the master or slave is trashed.
I could'nt shift to reverse and did'nt try a forward gear.
Tried to bleed the slave and after a few attempts the pedal would'nt return so I think my master is shot.
I have read in some earlier post when changing one to go ahead and change the other. I don't understand what has happened.
I pulled the slave out to get to the forks and pilot and drew down the fluid some when I could'nt get the slave back in trying to keep it compressed and putting the new little plastic keeper in place.
Now i have this pedal problem and it is worse as it doesn't engage the clutch. Any suggestions?
Check incab for worn clutch assy parts, also is your firewall cracked and flexing.
__________________ http://photos.thedieselstop.com/show...0/ppuser/28329
93 F250 7.3 IDI S/C XLT 4X4 E40D 3.55LS, Captains chairs, Tutone Mocha, Leer 48" Hiboy cap, FR & RR hitches, full DeeZee running boards. Factory ordered/delivered Jan 93 has 160K+, it's basically a stock truck with all the Ford options, just no disc player.
Toys: 26'Jayco FK TT, 18'Sylvan Pro Fish.
I will have to do mine since mine is leaking////Where can I find some instructions on changing them??? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif[/img]
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David and his Ford truck with a little motor and a big idea......
Ford F-350 Dually Crew Cab 5-Sp 7.3 IDI Centurion Conversion. No mods, rebilt IP and replaced injectors. Used as personal driver and pulling my RV camper.
Planned upgrades are a new and better turbo and larger exhaust pipes than the 21/2s that are already under the rig/ would like a 6 spd tranny but dont know if that is a feasable or smart investment yet.
1993 Dodge 3/4 ton Van Conversion 318CI
1978 Dodge Magnum XE T-top Classic 4BBl 400CI (Honeymoon Car)
1965 Dodge Polara 4 DR 383CI
You guys make changing the slave and or master too complicated. I just changed my slave and master a couple of months ago and had the job done in less than a hour from start to out the door.
When installing a new slave
1st open the bleeder on the slave and push the rod in when you install it with the line from the master on.
2nd let it set until fluid starts to drip out of the bleeder.
3rd push the clutch fork towards the front of the engine and close the bleeder.
4th let the fork and rod push out to normal, do this 3 or 4 times until you get a solid stream of fluid, by all means keep the master full
You will have a spongy pedal at first after you finish but within a few pumps of the pedal while driving the pedal will stiffen up.
I have done this on several trucks and can bleed the slave in about 10 min.
If you replaced the slave and had an old master still on you might have blown the master.
Jim
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<font color="blue">[b]93-F250 (Super Duty), Extended cab, Long Bed, XLT, Gray & Black, 7.3L, New Injector Pump, New Injectors 4X4, ZF5 5 speed trany, 4.10 gears Limted Slip.</font>
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