I am interested in possibly converting from a mechanical to an electrical lift pump and was wondering if this was something that someone had already done. I am looking for input on this idea and what it would take to do this conversion. Any comments and tips would be appreciated.
Thanks
George
__________________ 1992 F350 7.3 Liter IDI Four door long bed 4x4 5 Speed Manual ZF. Future: ATS Turbo, John Deere green paint job, gear vendor overdrive kit, Herculiner for the bed, and WVO fuel kit. Also 1990 F250 7.3 Liter IDI two door supercab with 5 Speed Manual ZF planning to sell after I pull my cd player, CB radio, and slider back glass out.
Napa Balkamp Universal Fuel Pump Kit: Part #610-1050; ~$36 out the door; 4-6 psi at 35GPH. Put it on the frame rail, just after your fuel selector valve, and let it push the fuel to the Fuel Filter.
Holley blue.... Holley Blue Electric Fuel Pumps - summitracing.com
This was posted by another member....
The Best Electric Lift/fuel Pump
I have a Facet Dura Lift on mine. Unlike the holley pumps, the Facet is designed for seriously long term continued use, its the factory pump for new Carrier Transcold and Thermoking reefer units and is designed to lift fuel 10feet straight up so you can mount it up high under the hood where it's easy to get to and has a nice filter screen on it that's easy to clean and keep an eye on fuel quality. http://www.facet-purolator.com/mcl/m...lift_sheet.pdf
The Carrier part number is 30-01108-01SV ( Facet # 40223 )
It was a good sign when I went to the Carrier dealer to buy one. The parts guy had to search for quite a while to find it. He didn't know where they were because they'd never had one fail. That's a good sign for pumps that run 24 hours a day .
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The cheapo Facet that autoparts stores keep on the shelf don't last very long. I keep one under the seat just in case my Carter goes belly up. It's been in there for 4 yrs now. OkieGringo
NOTE: the manual lift pump must be removed........ get a Chebby "Big Block" blockoff plate and gasket around $6+ to cover the hole.
__________________ http://photos.thedieselstop.com/show...0/ppuser/28329
93 F250 7.3 IDI S/C XLT 4X4 E40D 3.55LS, Captains chairs, Tutone Mocha, Leer 48" Hiboy cap, FR & RR hitches, full DeeZee running boards. Factory ordered/delivered Jan 93 has 160K+, it's basically a stock truck with all the Ford options, just no disc player.
Toys: 26'Jayco FK TT, 18'Sylvan Pro Fish.
Proud Canadian BOOB man too!!
Last edited by cdnsarguy : 05-05-2008 at 09:02 PM.
Very easy mod to do, and many here have done it. I used the Holley red pump (I think that is the lower pressure/volume pump). All you need to do is run a power wire down the frame that is powered with your key on (not start), and ground it to the frame where you mount it. You'll thank yourself the next time you change your fuel filter!
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92 F350 XLT Crewcab dually, 204K miles ATS turbo, 3 inch exhaust, DPS IP & Stage 1 injectors, Holly Red pump, K&N, E40D, aux cooler, A-pillar guages, 410 limited-slip rear, Rancho 9000s, towing package, full running boards, mud flaps, 94' Ford (Alcoa) aluminum wheels, Predator camper shell, 200 watts of Sony/Boston Acoustics! Complete engine rebuild at 176k miles. Ford reman E4OD at 204k miles.
2001 Komfort 26FS My Truck
i went with a walbro frb13 from vegpower.com its made for B100 and works well with heated waist oils. i love it!
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work truck - 86 Ford F250 with 6.9L Navistar IDI non-turbo diesel 4x4 dana 60 rear, dana 44 front, with 3.54s, C-6 with cooler, manual walbro frb-13 fuel pump, manual motor craft ZD-9 glow plugs, K&N air filter with homemade cold air intake and no soup bowl! napa heavy duty tractor truck batterys, homemade waist oils "conversion" burns everything also runing on B100. working on full work truck set up...
cruzin' car - 94 subaru justy 2 door hatchback 1.2L gas 5 speed everything works!
Cool thanks for the advice guys. I think I might have to go with the walbro through vegpower. I've been looking at trying out DSE, biodiesel, and WVO fuel setups and that pump seems like the best although that Facet dura lift pump sounds fairly strong as well. Now all I need is some $$ to start all the projects that I want to do.
__________________ 1992 F350 7.3 Liter IDI Four door long bed 4x4 5 Speed Manual ZF. Future: ATS Turbo, John Deere green paint job, gear vendor overdrive kit, Herculiner for the bed, and WVO fuel kit. Also 1990 F250 7.3 Liter IDI two door supercab with 5 Speed Manual ZF planning to sell after I pull my cd player, CB radio, and slider back glass out.
A mechanic buddy suggested this to me. He said it eliminates any 'suction' leaks. That is, if the line going to the stock mechanical pump has a small leak, it will suck in air and the mechanical pump will loose prime if sitting, so he said to me. Granted, if you have a duel tank and there are any leaks, it could happen too. Put if you prime the system for a few seconds before trying to start (aka waiting for the GP's to shut off, it will prime your fuel lines....)
My question is, if you have an electric pump, aren't you suppose to have some kind of emergency shut off? Like those inertia switches in the trunk of the cars or in the gas trucks???
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1999 E-350 Cub Wagon, 7.3L Power Stroke, E4OD, 3.55
1990 E-350 Club Wagon, 7.3L IDI, E4OD, 3.54LS
1983 F-150 2x4, 4.9L, C-6 w/GV-OD, 3.55 Farm pickup
1981 C-8000, 3208 CAT, RT-6510, Rockwell SSHD Tandems (Swap)
1977 K100C, NTC-350, RT-1110, Tandem
1977 Transtar II, NTC-290, RT-9509 Single
1977 Transtar II, Formula 290, RT0-9513, Tandem
1974 C-750, 391CID, Clark 5 speed, Eaton 2 speed
A mechanic buddy suggested this to me. He said it eliminates any 'suction' leaks. That is, if the line going to the stock mechanical pump has a small leak, it will suck in air and the mechanical pump will loose prime if sitting, so he said to me. Granted, if you have a duel tank and there are any leaks, it could happen too. Put if you prime the system for a few seconds before trying to start (aka waiting for the GP's to shut off, it will prime your fuel lines....)
My question is, if you have an electric pump, aren't you suppose to have some kind of emergency shut off? Like those inertia switches in the trunk of the cars or in the gas trucks???
If you look here
you can find an aftermarket inertia switch or a low pressure shutoff switch . Either setup will work.
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'92 F-350 7.3 5 spd, Crew Cab dually,ATS turbo, 4" Exhaust, Air seat, Western Hauler bed. My Gallery
Oh yeah I guess I didn't even think about an inertia switch. Guess I'd better look into that...wouldn't want to have an accident and have fuel spewing everywhere. Also as far as the advantage to doing this Mod I figured it would give me a more positive fuel pressure in the line before trying to turn over the engine to start instead of turning engine over couple of times to build the fuel pressure in the line. Also not sure of the validity of this but figured without the mechanical lift pump it would be that much less work that my engine would be putting into to operating and therefore better mileage and more power to the ground... then again it's possible that it would be negligible although in my case I'm also looking at pulling the stock radiator fan off and setting up a thermostatically controlled set of electric fans. Anyways I guess I'll see what happens.
__________________ 1992 F350 7.3 Liter IDI Four door long bed 4x4 5 Speed Manual ZF. Future: ATS Turbo, John Deere green paint job, gear vendor overdrive kit, Herculiner for the bed, and WVO fuel kit. Also 1990 F250 7.3 Liter IDI two door supercab with 5 Speed Manual ZF planning to sell after I pull my cd player, CB radio, and slider back glass out.
I'm also looking at pulling the stock radiator fan off and setting up a thermostatically controlled set of electric fans. Anyways I guess I'll see what happens
Don't even go there, many have before and all reverted to the OEM setup...... so don't waste your money.
__________________ http://photos.thedieselstop.com/show...0/ppuser/28329
93 F250 7.3 IDI S/C XLT 4X4 E40D 3.55LS, Captains chairs, Tutone Mocha, Leer 48" Hiboy cap, FR & RR hitches, full DeeZee running boards. Factory ordered/delivered Jan 93 has 160K+, it's basically a stock truck with all the Ford options, just no disc player.
Toys: 26'Jayco FK TT, 18'Sylvan Pro Fish.
Oh yeah I guess I didn't even think about an inertia switch. Guess I'd better look into that...wouldn't want to have an accident and have fuel spewing everywhere. Also as far as the advantage to doing this Mod I figured it would give me a more positive fuel pressure in the line before trying to turn over the engine to start instead of turning engine over couple of times to build the fuel pressure in the line. Also not sure of the validity of this but figured without the mechanical lift pump it would be that much less work that my engine would be putting into to operating and therefore better mileage and more power to the ground... then again it's possible that it would be negligible although in my case I'm also looking at pulling the stock radiator fan off and setting up a thermostatically controlled set of electric fans. Anyways I guess I'll see what happens.
nooo negligible loss driving the mech pump, but you are drawing steady current to drive the electric pump--would say the electric draw is more loss----
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94 f250 idi turbo sc e4od alum fac rims 149,289 --dana 60 frt with posi--10.25 rear w/posi--shouldnt get stuck!! ats turbo 3" parts on--what a diff from stock turbo!!!!!--- also 96 F250 with 305,000 is fixed!!-- 7.3 rattler-also 85 6.9-needs new engine!! tired!!
Don't even go there, many have before and all reverted to the OEM setup...... so don't waste your money.
why do you say that? i'm looking at doing a 3" body lift and am going to have fan to radiator issues if i don't either extend the radiator mounts lower or swap to an electric fan. i was thinking electric fan since it 'should' improve gas mileage and would make for a cleaner mod to fix my fan radiator alignment problem...
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7.3 IDI F-350 4x4 1990
-Custom: '92 interior; Banks Y Pipe, Flowmaster muffler and Dual 4.25" Stacks
-Reman'd: Heavy Duty E4OD and Billet Converter; Transfer Case; Water pump; Power Steering pump; Denso Starter
-New: Brakes; Engine seals and oil pan; Oil pump; RUST-FREE Cab and Bed
-Pro Comp "Holley Red style" electric fuel pump
-3" Body Lift
-Fresh under coating on frame No more face full of rust under the truck!!
-16x10 Eagle Alloy 186 with 33's
-8ft snow plow
4.6l Mustang GT 1997
-Custom side exhaust (no mufflers, Ford Racing Exhaust tips
-Aftermarket stereo (Alpine headunit; JL Component Speakers; JL 300x2 Amp; JL 10" W7 Sub; JL 500x1 Amp)