Oh Boy, I think I'm in big trouble. What I thought was a leaky oil pan drain plug turned out to be two holes in the side of my oil pan!!
[img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif[/img]
Stupid Rust!!
I tried to drive a sheetmetal screw with a rubber washer under the head into the bigger of the holes and there is just not much good metal left. I have a #12 in there and am not real confident.
After I decided to give up I noticed a THIRD hole!!! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif[/img]
I must have distrubed things enough to cause it to appear. I can't afford to have the thing let go at speed or I'll lose the engine.
So, it looks like it's a goner! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img]
AutoZone lists a new one for $119 and the gasket set for $12 but...
It looks like quite a job to replace. My Chiltons describes the process in some detail. I stopped reading when I got to the "lift the engine up and place block under it" part. Made me kinda quesy.
[img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
I have no tools or enough skill to go that far.
Is there any way I can replace this thing or repair it easily?
HELP!!!!!
Carm*
Edit:
Okay, decided to take a shower to get rid of some of the oil I was wearing. I got to thinking: I repaired my rear fuel tank years ago as follows: Took a drill and a wirewheel and cleaned off the rust. Drove a sheetmetal screw with a rubber washer into the hole to stop the leak. Cleaned the metal with brake cleaner to degrease. Slathered on clear silicone RTV and waited for it to set. Replaced the skid plate and it's been fine for years.
I wonder if I could do something similiar? Maybe drain the oil, de-rust and de-grease and then RTV a sheet of sheetmetal in the weak spot? Maybe J-B Weld or is there some RTV that can take high temp and is very sticky like the clear stuff? Any other "magic in a tube or can" I could try? The truck will be retired to plowing and winter storm driving in the next month or two. I need to get another vehicle. I can't justify pulling out her engine to fix her and can't see scrapping her after I spent over $200 to fix her brakes.
The problem with a rusty pan is that you can never get all of the oil out of the metal to get a good patch. I've gone the RTV route on a snow plow truck, which slowed down the oil leaks a lot, but it certainly isn't permanent.
If you want to try RTV, you need to drain the oil from the pan, clean the area well with Brake Cleaner, and let it dry thoroughly. You then need to spread the RTV over a large area. The oil pan gets really hot, so you have to use high temp stuff.
There are also epoxy kits for oil pans at auto parts stores, although I've never used one of those.
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1985 International rollback, 6.9L 5 speed "Li'l Big Truck"
I used epoxy on mine but that only slowed it down.. Mine was replaced with a new pan (approx. $140.00CDN) it was changed without removing the engine .. the engine was jacked up and changed ..
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1992 F-350 , CC , 4x4 , 7.3 IDI , E4OD , 3.55 Gears , 130000 KM , 4" Lift Kit , Altezza Tail Lights , Euro Clear Headlights ,1990 F150 Chrome Front Bumper, Xenon Extreme White 80/100 Bulbs , E4OD Transmission Cooler , Sony AM/FM /CD /MP3 /XM Ready , Insten FM Digital Transmitter , Apple Ipod video (60g) , Rancho RS5000 Shocks , 10X16 Americal Racing Wheels , 315 LT /75R 16 Durango XTR Radials..
If you decide to have the op replaced then dont use the gasket as you mentioned on the first post, many guys have done it and it does leak trough it.
Exekiel.
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- 12/92 f350 jasper 7.3L 17k Torito
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crew cab/ wood interiors/ 800w cd player. Sweet ;-)
2 new diamond headlights
4 100w flash lights and 2 withe fog lights more pics BOOB Man
I plan to head to town tomorrow morning and check out the new Super Wal*Mart. On my list of things to buy is a few J-B Weld kits, some high-temp silicone RTV, a gallon or two of oil, a can of brake cleaner and some sheet metal screws. If they have one, a Motorcraft FL-784 oil filter. (Going to stop at the little Farm Stand on the way back and get some corn and melons for my little Labor Day Cookout as well)
I plan on cleaning out my drain oil pan so I can capture and reuse the oil. It's got 25 miles on it, hate to waste it. If I can get my hands on a Motorcraft filter I'll take that stupid Fram I put on there off and chuck it in the bin. Dang thing leaks, just like the one I put on years ago and swore I'd never do that again but, I digress...
I'm going to mark the holes I can see by enlarging them with a awl and then drain the oil. Then I will hit the pan with the drill-driven wire wheels. Next, drive sheetmetal screws into the holes. Then, degrease with brake cleaner. If I can get all the rust off and down to good metal I have half a chance.
Next, J-B Weld over the sheetmetal screws and all the weak metal. Wide area application. Let set and then RTV over that.
Not sure how long the J-B Weld needs to set up but I get the feeling I will be finishing the job up on Tuesday or Wed. night. No big deal.
If it works fine, if not, well... I guess I'll need Plan B.
Just don't know what Plan B is at the moment. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]
Carm*
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'91 F-250 4x4 E4OD, Meyers Plow, K&N Air Filter
to me if you are having that many holes it seems a new oil pan is in the near future.
As far as a fram filter you have the right idea chuck it, if the local wally doesnt have a motorcraft then stop by napa and pic up one from there. Back in high school i was using fram for my little ol rust bucket oldsmobile and i got one with 2 gaskets on the filter and of course me being young and stupid i didnt inspect the filter until i installed it, filled with new oil and 3 seconds after startup i had oil all over our driveway. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/vomit.gif[/img]
--Ryan
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91 f-350, dually, 7.3 diesel. 2wd, 4.10 gears LS. E4OD. New injectors, lift pump, and fuel filter at current 85,000 miles. Autometer pyro and fuel turned up. 3" exhaust with walker "btm" muffler http://community.webshots.com/user/olivera_149
This is one reason I've painted the outside of my pan...several times.
Good old Rustoleum in gray [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]
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88 F 250 7.3 Super Cab XLT Lariat4X4...Cream Puff
81 Corvette...Pampered
Harley Shovel 88" Show Stoper...WOW
BBC 468 Jet Boat...Gotta get Wet!
It's the Women that cost me the $$$$
You are going to spend as much time trying to get a good patch as you would if you went ahead and fixed it right.
There is no shortcut when it comes to a pan leak.
you have 1/2 of the problem solved with the step by step directions. This isn't brain surgery, the pan is just a fancy bucket for your oil.
The prices quoted for a pan are reasonable.
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[b] <font color="red">1989 f350 7.3 IDI 4wd 5sp GM 14 bolt rear axel. 325,000 miles and counting!!!
1968 ten wheel drive army 5 ton, 340 HP 855 C I D cummins,custom turbo,5" straight stack, real big off road fun!
3208 cat NA in a fuel truck, 3116 cat turbo in another.
Volvo diesel auto,slow off the line but I get 42 MPG on the highway. </font>
Bunch of other compression ignition toys.
Welder,Mechanic,Fabricator,Fueloil distrubutor.<font color="OOFFOO">
Eastern Pennsylvania.It's still nice here.Really.
I used coarse and fine wire wheels to get rid of the rust and then degreased with brake cleaner. Ran sheet metal screws into all the holes I could see and mixed up some J-B Weld. Let it set up a good 15 minutes before applying it (since the surface is vert) and smoothed it on.
Let it dry 36 hours and got a new nylon oil plug gasket at the Dealer and - Hey Presto!
The leaks are gone!!
Thanks for the help guys!
Carm*
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'91 F-250 4x4 E4OD, Meyers Plow, K&N Air Filter
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