History... can't use rear tank...sucking air between the FSV & tank. Fuel level is below filler, but *should* be full otherwise. Can't for the life of me get it to siphon any out...
Attempt #1: Bought a cheapo "squeeze bulb primer" for a boat tank & tryed to get it going....NADA... assumed it was the bulb working improperly?...
Attempt #2: Bought 7' of 3/8" vinyl tubing (might be a little small ID wise, but it's clear & easy to pinch closed [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img] )... was only able to blow thru it once and hear bubbling, but it sounded like it was right on the fuel surface & not submerged... the other 18 tries resulted in not hitting liquid! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif[/img]
Pretty sure both tubes are long enough since the filler neck is < 2' long & goes straight into the tank... 4' on the primer bulb... 7' on the tubing. The primer hose is 3/4" & stiff enough not to kink/coil. Vinyl tube has "memory" from the roll and is possibly coiling up prior to or once inside the tank? Thought about hanging the vinyl tube with a weight on 1 end to strecth it out a tad & hopefully remove the memory?
Was thinking it *SHOULDN'T* be this hard to siphon the @#$% out! Please tell me it's possible to siphon via the filler or do I have to pull the rubber line from the pickup and try that path? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
Why not disconnect the outlet hose (Large) from the top of the tank and connect a hose to it and syphone or at the FS Valve just disconnect the large hose from the tank. Just remove the clip from the locking device and remove connector.
__________________ http://photos.thedieselstop.com/show...0/ppuser/28329
93 F250 7.3 IDI S/C XLT 4X4 E40D 3.55LS, Captains chairs, Tutone Mocha, Leer 48" Hiboy cap, FR & RR hitches, full DeeZee running boards. Factory ordered/delivered Jan 93 has 160K+, it's basically a stock truck with all the Ford options, just no disc player.
Toys: 26'Jayco FK TT, 18'Sylvan Pro Fish.
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Why not disconnect the outlet hose (Large) from the top of the tank and connect a hose to it and syphone
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That's what I was wondering... is that the only way?
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or at the FS Valve just disconnect the large hose from the tank. Just remove the clip from the locking device and remove connector.
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That thought had occured to me, but was paranoid that *IF* I managed to get it off, wasn't sure if I could fit one of my 5Gal. cans under it... and if they did fit, could I manage to get the flow *stopped* once the can was full without draining an "extra" gallon or 2 out on the ground (would surely prevent the grass from growing in the backyard or make a giant mess on the asphault drive [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img] )... *That's* why I was trying to do it via the filler... [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]
I've done this on several vehicles both diesel and gas. Get a self-drilling/tapping screw (3/8" hex head) and use a screw gun and screw into the tank at a low point. Use a open end wrench to remove the screw so that you don't get gas/diesel on the drill motor and BLOW YOUR ASS TO HELL!! After the fuel has drained out put a rubber backed washer on the screw and screw it back into the tank and leave it there. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img]Baja
If you are draining the fuel to diagnose why it is sucking air why don't you pull the box off? That way you can work comfortably and get a good look at all the lines and what not. Just a thought.
Disconnect the FSV and either attach tubing or hose to it so you can extent it so your working out in the open. Use the clear tubing so you can watch for air. This will also confirm how much fuel can be drawn from the tank or how much is left because of broken pick up tube.
You could also try sticking light guage solid wire inside the tubing to stiffen it up a little then stuff it down the filler and into the tank.
Pull the bed and open the tank - Hey it's an idea - not the best thought [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]
Tried to siphon via the filler once more (OK, I'm stuborn [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img] )...guessing there's a plate/restriction of some sort inside to keep it from happening... fine by me... don't have to worry about someone "borrowing" any diesel from that tank! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
I took a look at the hoses coming from the tank to the hard lines... hard to tell what they're made of! Definitely not metal, but harder than rubber...almost like hard plastic... or are they rubber, hard as a rock, and possibly where the air is coming from??
Anyways, think I'll investigate pulling it loose at the FSV... since Pete sent me a diagram & I'm pretty sure I ID the correct (pickup) line. Next question is exactly how do the fittings on the FSV work? Looked at them breifly but didn't see exactly how to disconnect them [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
Or would cutting the the 2 "hoses" at the hardlines be the best shot? AFAICT, the hardlines *could* be the issues (looked pretty skanky)
Ok, go ahead and do it the hard way [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif[/img]. Now if you're gonna take those hard plastic lines off the tank and/or FSV, have you picked up a 'fuel line disconnect tool' and one of the correct size? And you'd better get 4 new clips because you're gonna break at least one, 5/16" and 4 of 3/8" I believe? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img]Baja
The connections all have hairpin clips some are black and some white that denotes size. Just pry the clips out and get new ones at any A-parts place. Then gently but firmly pull the line off, before re installation of the line, check the oring is in place inside the locking cap.
__________________ http://photos.thedieselstop.com/show...0/ppuser/28329
93 F250 7.3 IDI S/C XLT 4X4 E40D 3.55LS, Captains chairs, Tutone Mocha, Leer 48" Hiboy cap, FR & RR hitches, full DeeZee running boards. Factory ordered/delivered Jan 93 has 160K+, it's basically a stock truck with all the Ford options, just no disc player.
Toys: 26'Jayco FK TT, 18'Sylvan Pro Fish.
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The connections all have hairpin clips some are black and some white that denotes size. Just pry the clips out and get new ones at any A-parts place. Then gently but firmly pull the line off, before re installation of the line, check the oring is in place inside the locking cap.
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Oh Pete, you took all the fun out of it [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif[/img]. If people don't buy the tool I invented ....... [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img]Baja
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Oh Pete, you took all the fun out of it [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif[/img]. If people don't buy the tool I invented ....... [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img]Baja
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Care to ellaborate? I'm a tightwad, but don't mind spending for "the right" tool if it decreases the amount of time to perform a task...
I was just kidding, the 'tool' helps and I'd buy one (I didn't really invent THIS tool) if I was doing a lot of tank work. But Pete is correct, it's much easier/quicker to just break off the old ones and install new ones IF you have the foresight to buy them BEFORE you NEED them and you bought the RIGHT size ones. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img]Baja
Dang! I figured you were gonna post a pic of the "tool" and it was gonna be a screwdriver or pair of needlenose! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]
Once I get started on the rear tank, I'll figure out what sizes I need and go pickup enough for now & definitely "later". I'm fortunate that AA, AutoZoo, O'Rielly's,& NAPA are all side by side about 5 miles away...and I have 3 other vehicles to get me there if the truck is completly down [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]
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