I recently bought a 1986 F350 w/ dump and 7.3 IDI. I have had the vehicle two days now and have enjoyed using it. This morning I went out to try and start it, and when I turned the key, I heard a click sound coming from the engine compartment, and then the truck didn't start. It's not a constant clicking, more like the click of a relay. They engine temp light also comes on. The person I bought the truck from told me that it has the 7.3L engine in it, so I figured maybe someone here could give me some insight.
Thanks
TJ
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New to the World of Ford Trucks
I believe she's the following:
1986 F350 7.3 IDI Dually w/ Dump Bed
I look at the starter, there were two connections, one large connection, that was connected via a nut, then a smaller wire that looked like it clipped into a connector, both wires felt like they were solidly connected but after just touching them / wiggling them, the engine turned over. Strange.
Thanks for the suggestion. Now that I think more about it, the sound it was making sounded a lot like a dead battery, it just clicked and then didn't do anything. I wonder why the Engine Temp light came one?
Thanks,
TJ
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New to the World of Ford Trucks
I believe she's the following:
1986 F350 7.3 IDI Dually w/ Dump Bed
Is it the "Engine Temp" light or the very familar "Wait to Start Light"?
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'93 F-250 IDI, 4x4, K&N, no soup bowl, stock, with 265,XXX miles 5 speed, 3.55, kind of new LUK clutch, runs great, starts great, it is great. The truck is getting old.
It's the Engine Temp Light, I don't belive I have a "Wait to Start Light" from what I have read, that light indicates the glow plugs working. I assume that since mine is an 86 body / chassis with a 7.3 in it, that explains why I may not have the Wait to Start light. I have three lights on the dash to the lower right of the steering wheel. "Glow Plugs", another one I can't remember in the middle, and then "Engine Temp" on the bottom. I also have a button right next to the set of lights that when pushed the "Glow Plugs" light comes on. Which I believe are shot too, because when the car is cold, I need to use a shot Either / engine start helper to start it up.
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New to the World of Ford Trucks
I believe she's the following:
1986 F350 7.3 IDI Dually w/ Dump Bed
In the 86's the light says "Glow Plug" instead of "Wait to Start", but it's the same thing, indicates that glow plugs are activated. Was the 7.3 swapped into the 86 chassis? If not, the original engine in 86 was the 6.9...visually the same, minor differences only.
And yes, if it won't start cold, glow plugs are probably in need of some attention. You can search the 6.9 and 7.3 IDI boards for "glow plug test" and get some good info. I for one rely on the resistance test as opposed to the test light check. Make sure not to use the glowplugs and ether at the same time, in case you have one or two that are working, the ether can explode on a hot glowplug. These things won't start on an 80 degree day without functioning glowplugs.
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1986 F250 2WD Super Cab XLT Lariat w/ 1996 front clip. Dually bed & van rearend (2" wider, allows spring clearance). 6.9 w/ approx 120,000mi. Banks non-wastegated turbo system, Beru ZD1A glowplugs, Delphi BB injectors, Kenworth pyrometer, vac/boost gauge, electric water temp/oil psi/voltmeter mounted in dash. 3" Mandrel-bent open exhaust. C6 trans, 3.54 gears. Okiegringo idler pulley. R134a A/C conversion. WMO/diesel blend in one tank.
Thanks, that is some good information. I definitely have some glow plug problems then, because when I press the button the light comes on, I hold if for 3-5 seconds and then try and start the engine. It doesn't start or even seem to want to start. I will lookup how to test the glow plugs. Do you like your Beru ZD1A plugs? To answer your question the 7.3 was Swapped into the 86 chassis.
Thanks,
TJ
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New to the World of Ford Trucks
I believe she's the following:
1986 F350 7.3 IDI Dually w/ Dump Bed
If you have a 7.3 check the electrical connector tips on the GPs if they are spade terminal that is ZD1A, if they are bullet tops that is ZD9. Does the engine have a black plastic cover or zig zag resistor on the GP controller at the rear center of the block, if so that is the Solid state controller.....not normally manually bypassed since they work so good. Use ZD9 with solid state....
I will PM you some info........
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93 F250 7.3 IDI S/C XLT 4X4 E40D 3.55LS, Captains chairs, Tutone Mocha, Leer 48" Hiboy cap, FR & RR hitches, full DeeZee running boards. Factory ordered/delivered Jan 93 has 160K+, it's basically a stock truck with all the Ford options, just no disc player.
Toys: 26'Jayco FK TT, 18'Sylvan Pro Fish.
Cdnsarguy is right on the part numbers of the glow plugs, yours most likely has the ZD9 (round connector on top). The Beru (Motorcraft) glow plugs are the only way to go, any of the other brands there have been alot of members have problems with failures (especially Autolite) including tips breaking off and jamming in between the cylinder head and the piston. If you want to see some pics here's a little web page that alot of us refer to when this subject comes up http://www.members.shaw.ca/k2pilot/ , once there click on "Glow Plug removal article".
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1986 F250 2WD Super Cab XLT Lariat w/ 1996 front clip. Dually bed & van rearend (2" wider, allows spring clearance). 6.9 w/ approx 120,000mi. Banks non-wastegated turbo system, Beru ZD1A glowplugs, Delphi BB injectors, Kenworth pyrometer, vac/boost gauge, electric water temp/oil psi/voltmeter mounted in dash. 3" Mandrel-bent open exhaust. C6 trans, 3.54 gears. Okiegringo idler pulley. R134a A/C conversion. WMO/diesel blend in one tank.
Arthurgoboom, thanks for the info on the glow plugs. Reading that article has scared me to not try and remove them for fear of the tip breaking off.
Anyway I went out to start the truck again today and it wouldn't start, only the click sound. I then opened the hood and was looking around. I also bought a Haynes manual which has been a bit helpful identifying things. I checked the wires to the starter solenoid then closed the hood, and she turned right over. So I am guessing it's a bad starter solenoid?
TJ
I will have to take some pictures and post them.
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New to the World of Ford Trucks
I believe she's the following:
1986 F350 7.3 IDI Dually w/ Dump Bed
It could be a bad/sticking solenoid or a loose connection somewhere, when you shut the hood it could jar it enough to make contact. Remember it has 2 starter solenoids, one bolted to the passenger side inner fender, then a bigger one on the side of the starter down below the exhaust manifold.
As for the glowplugs...try taking one out, just don't try to force it. It should screw out without too much resistance, and then once you get to the end of the threads you should be able to rotate it back and forth with a small pair of pliers while pulling up. When I pulled mine they had some carbon and such on them that required this rotate-while-pulling, but they didn't seem alarmingly tight. I guess it's just something that comes with a bit of experience. Once you get it out, read on the side and see what brand it is. If it's a Beru, hopefully all the rest are too. When I took my old Berus out they were all bad, some burned/chipped, but none were swollen or broken off and all came out easily. Good luck with all this!
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1986 F250 2WD Super Cab XLT Lariat w/ 1996 front clip. Dually bed & van rearend (2" wider, allows spring clearance). 6.9 w/ approx 120,000mi. Banks non-wastegated turbo system, Beru ZD1A glowplugs, Delphi BB injectors, Kenworth pyrometer, vac/boost gauge, electric water temp/oil psi/voltmeter mounted in dash. 3" Mandrel-bent open exhaust. C6 trans, 3.54 gears. Okiegringo idler pulley. R134a A/C conversion. WMO/diesel blend in one tank.
It probably is a bad solenoid, because all of the connections feel tight. I was looking around on Rockauto.com and found what looks like the correct part for around $10. What are other sites you guys like to use for parts?
Thanks
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New to the World of Ford Trucks
I believe she's the following:
1986 F350 7.3 IDI Dually w/ Dump Bed
Believe it or not, I have been pleasantly surprised going to my local Advance Auto. They had a new water pump for my 6.9 in stock, no core required, for like $60.
It looks like they have both the fender mounted one and the one that goes on the starter. Prices seem competitive...around $10 for the fender relay and 35-50 for the one on the starter. The only thing I'm not sure of is brand/quality vs rockauto.com or any other sites.
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1986 F250 2WD Super Cab XLT Lariat w/ 1996 front clip. Dually bed & van rearend (2" wider, allows spring clearance). 6.9 w/ approx 120,000mi. Banks non-wastegated turbo system, Beru ZD1A glowplugs, Delphi BB injectors, Kenworth pyrometer, vac/boost gauge, electric water temp/oil psi/voltmeter mounted in dash. 3" Mandrel-bent open exhaust. C6 trans, 3.54 gears. Okiegringo idler pulley. R134a A/C conversion. WMO/diesel blend in one tank.
Thanks for the info, I went down to AutoZone and although the part wasn't in the computer under the 6.9 or 7.3 engines, they were able to find a solenoid that looked exactly like the one I needed. When home spent about 30 minutes replacing it, and she started right up. I drove around for a few minutes, turned the engine off then back on again, opened the hood, closed the hood etc... and everything seems to be fine.
Now all I have to do is fix the parking break, and get the regular breaks to work better and I'll be all set.
Thanks,
TJ
I will post some pictures early next week.
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New to the World of Ford Trucks
I believe she's the following:
1986 F350 7.3 IDI Dually w/ Dump Bed