NEW to the Ford IDI Scene, Please chime in.

[RokstaNorth]

Happy Easter Gents,
I'm currently a noob to the Ford IDI scene. I've been lurking on the threads for 2 weeks now and I finally decided to sign up..

Okay, Quick run down on my truck.. I'd like your opinions..
1994 (01/94) Ford F250 XLT Turbo Diesel Ext Cab Long Bed.
-Ex Farm Truck
- Runs great, previous owner mentioned he replaced the tranny 2 years ago.
- Body wise looks good, minus the interior bed, and one side because a trailer jack knifed on him and hit the truck.
- New A/c Compressor, but need freon.
- 177k Miles.
- Fires up on the 1st crank.
- Scored it for 3k.

Did I get a good deal?

Any general tips in maintenance I should do? I just replaced the oil and both fuel and oil filters. Reason I purchased it was to haul my 16ft Lowboy and Track M3, and my buddies Lightning to events, either one. Not both..lol.

I'm in the SE Texas Area so cold temps are nothing to worry about.

Any additives to use since USLD was introduced? Something I can grab at Advance Auto Parts preferably, or should look into running Bio Diesel.

-I currently am doing a MPG test, I'm at 3/4 on the rear tank after running 55 miles (city/hwy) ... sound about right?

I'm 19 yrs old and this is my 1st Diesel to call my own, I used to drive my dads 01 Cummins Dodge.
Sorry in advance for the long post, just soo many questions..haha..


Thanks!
-Rudy

[91diesel]

Good deal? My opinion? Yes! Im 16 and do all the work on my PSD (used to have an IDI) so dont think theres anything your not capable of doing. When you tow, keep it out of overdrive. Use whatever additive you want..i use motor oil ^_^ You wont be able to have a good representation of the fuel economy until you have filled up, used, and filled up a few times.

On maintenance, I would strongly advise going out and buying some DCA4 coolant test strips to test for anti-cavitation additives in the coolant. If you dont keep up with them, you might as well start looking for a new engine (cavitation kills), if you look after it too well, you can plug your radiator up. Cavitation is like little air bubbles imploding on the cylinder wall and eventually get through to the inside of the cylinder.

Anthony

[arthurgoboom]

I think that is a very good deal if it's not a rustbucket.

x2 on the DCA4 coolant test strips.

In my opinion, the only additive worth the effort for lubricity purposes is to run a 5-10% biodiesel blend. This is a link to a lab test posted on this site awhile back showing that most of the commercial fuel additives are marginal at best at improving lubricity, but the biodiesel blend at 5% (IIRC) was way way better: what additive to use - diesel lubricity study

That has a link to another forum where they copied/pasted the test results, but I did see the actual link to test results at one point, just can't find them now

[dakotajeep]

I also think you got a deal. I would have to see it to gve a better opinion though. I would also run a bioDiesel mix if possible. On fuel usage, I usually figure 50 miles per quarter of a tank, if any city driving is involved.....

[RokstaNorth]

Sweet! so I guess I did get me a good deal...
Okay....
As for the overdrive while towing, that button on the handle doesn't seem to be working, is it a hard piece/expensive to replace?

-As for fuel, I added 1/3 bottle of gunk sulfur additive to the rear tank and filled her up, I'm currently at 82.5 mi, with 1/16 past the 1/2 mark. Still doing ok?

- Coolant strips.... where can i get them, and if there is that "cav." issue what can i do.
-PICS.
Damaged Side.


Golden Retriver approved




KEEP THE GREAT INFO COMING GUYS! IT ALL HELPS

[M.L.S.C.]

The test strips you can get at a diesel shop, or your local IH dealer's parts desk, most regular parts stores do not carry 'em strips, or even SCAs for that matter. They do however have fuel additives for diesel rigs, in case you need something of that sort.

By the way your truck looks great, you should have seen what mine looked like the second night I got it when some moron hit it when it was parked in front of my friend's place and we were out for dinner - bent the frame horns, moved the whole radiator support, destroyed the grille and the passenger-side headlight assembly, messed up the fender and bumper, dislocated the hood... I just spend two days straightening things, truck looks much much better now, but will never be all straight. You just need to replace your bed, swap out the axle hubs, and add another pair of rear wheels to widen up the tracks, then you'll be all set

[91diesel]

The only thing you can to do fix cavitation is sleeve the motor or get a new one. Its a pretty serious thing. However, you could probably go the whole trucks life by keeping the SCA levels up to par.

I have a manual and never had the o/d button on my shifter on the old truck, but I dont think it would be that hard to replace waranting thats the problem.

Anthony

[RokstaNorth]

Originally Posted by 91diesel

The only thing you can to do fix cavitation is sleeve the motor or get a new one. Its a pretty serious thing. However, you could probably go the whole trucks life by keeping the SCA levels up to par.

I have a manual and never had the o/d button on my shifter on the old truck, but I dont think it would be that hard to replace waranting thats the problem.

Anthony

ah, well I managed to loosen the O/D switch and break the housing end because the button was "super glued" :l ..works fine now.


I sent the truck in for a tranny service, seal, oil and filter, but they said I had to look into TPS code before having it worked on....


He reccomended replacing the TPS, it's $30 bux from advance,

what should I do to replace it, steps, tips...etc... where is it loacted...etc.


Thanks!

[a72hdmc]

love that long blonde hair...but you should really keep both paws on the wheel, looks like a nice truck, don't forget to change the oil every 3000 miles..enjoy,CD

[M.L.S.C.]

On my 7.3 the TPS aka FIPL is on the driver-side of the injection pump, kinda behind teh oil fill neck - it has a plug with a three wires coming off it, pretty easy to see, to small torx bolts hold it in place.