new ignition switch and now broken ignition actuator?
i ordered a new ignition starter switch from rockauto. i made sure the slide inside the switch was set to the off position as was the key in the ignition. i got the actuator arm rested in its correct place on the switch then bolted the ignition switch back onto the column.
now im facing a few issues.
first off, when i insert the key in the ignition and turn it, its rather looser then tightens and does not lock in any position except the accessory position (but no power will flow), therefore the WTS light will not come on and it will not crank. basically when i insert the key and turn in any direction, nothing happens. this could be the ignition actuator or whatever that metal piece that connects the ignition cylinder to the actuator rod. this is weird because earlier in the day, the ignition cylinder turned fine and i was able to drive the truck.
i took the last section off of the steering column where it meets the dash to expose the actuator rod. i was able to pull it with pliers into the accessory position and power began to flow through. then i was able to turn the key towards the cranking position and push the rod with the pliers. i got my WTS light to come on but when it goes off and i push it further to crank, all of a sudden my WIF comes on and it wont turn over.
also, while testing that the switch was set correctly and bolted in the correct position and when i was about to test the actuator rod with the pliers, my horn would not stop honking. the previous owner did install an alarm but i am not sure if that is whats being tripped or if somehow along the way i messed up some sort of wiring. i pulled the fuse to stop it so i could continue troubleshooting.
so does anyone have any suggestions before i call up an electrical or mechanical shop?
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1988 Ford F-250 XLT Lariat 7.3L IDI Non Turbo 4x4 C6
I had this same problem with my 89 here a couple of months ago. I thought the ignition lock cylinder was going out, so I bought a new cylinder. When I installed it, it didn't fix the problem. It felt really sloppy and loose, and got worse, to the point where it wouldn't even engage the ignition switch. I took apart all that you described, and found this little piece of metal that has gear teeth on one side (that the lock cylinder turns), and the other side connects to the rod that goes down to the ignition switch. There is a fulcrum or pivot in the middle, and mine broke at the pivot. I had to pull the whole column out and send it to a column repair shop in east Dallas. He charged me 100$
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89 F350 SRW Reg Cab 4X4, 3.55:1, ZF-5 w/ LUK single mass, added Banks sidewinder 12-06. So far so good. 17 mpg using B50 bio blend.
94 F350 SRW CC E4OD and factory turbo- currently under construction
I had this same problem with my 89 here a couple of months ago. I thought the ignition lock cylinder was going out, so I bought a new cylinder. When I installed it, it didn't fix the problem. It felt really sloppy and loose, and got worse, to the point where it wouldn't even engage the ignition switch. I took apart all that you described, and found this little piece of metal that has gear teeth on one side (that the lock cylinder turns), and the other side connects to the rod that goes down to the ignition switch. There is a fulcrum or pivot in the middle, and mine broke at the pivot. I had to pull the whole column out and send it to a column repair shop in east Dallas. He charged me 100$
in the op i stated that i believe that thats the part that could be causing the issue. i just wanted to make sure that it couldnt be anything else.
i saw a video on youtube describing the problem and the steps to fix it yourself. the problem looks like mine so i think i might just go ahead and order the part and do it myself and then report back. the part is only around $6 and all i need is a steering wheel remover which im told can be rented from an auto store.
thank you for the reply.
edit: i noticed you said broken at a pivot point. i plan on taking the steering wheel off and the rest of the visible column off. im not exactly sure of what part youre speaking of but it might be apparent when i take it apart. im also going to change the "steering lock lever", as ive heard that they break fairly easily. but if it is what youre describing, ill pull the column and send it off.
No, that's not what broke. I don't know what that is. That doesn't look like it belongs in our columns. You're gonna have to pull the wheel, pull the column lock ring, pull the cancel cam (turn signal switch) in order to see it.
When you pull the above, you'll see that the ignition lock cylinder (inside the column) spins a gear. On top of the gear, you'll see a piece similiar to the pic you posted a link to- it will be flat, and have gear teeth on one side only. The other side is what the actuator rod for the ignition swich connects to.
This is all so simple to understand once you remove what I described above. I can understand you wanting to identify the correct part first, but I have no clue where to source that part. That's why I had a column guy do mine.
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89 F350 SRW Reg Cab 4X4, 3.55:1, ZF-5 w/ LUK single mass, added Banks sidewinder 12-06. So far so good. 17 mpg using B50 bio blend.
94 F350 SRW CC E4OD and factory turbo- currently under construction
yep, thats the part i was originally speaking of and i already ordered it! should be here by the end of the week so ill report back once ive got it installed. thanks!
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1988 Ford F-250 XLT Lariat 7.3L IDI Non Turbo 4x4 C6
okay so the part came in today and i installed it today. everything went well until it came time to put the piece in. it seems like you have to drop the whole column to get one tiny piece in. well i ended up grinding a small portion off and i got it in and put it all back together. that certainly fixed my problem with the ignition cylinder!
but, im still having issues with either a crossed wire (i didnt touch any wires except for piece that plugs into the ignition switch) or the alarm that the previous owner installed. my horn honks in what seems like a certain pattern and the side lights flash along. that certainly seems like the alarm to me. its just weird because it happens rather randomly.
also, my water in fuel light stays on and wont allow me to crank it. i drained the fuel filter but havent taken any further steps.
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1988 Ford F-250 XLT Lariat 7.3L IDI Non Turbo 4x4 C6
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