Hi again group,
Although I think I've taken care of my fuel leak, my new starter's not doing what it should. I went to start the truck this afternoon and after cranking it for about 30 seconds I turned off the key, and then when I tried again, the starter is just spinning and it sounds like it's not really engaging the ring gear. Batteries are tested and good. I had a few great starts after I put in the new starter. I found this post which said:
...always use the "91 year" starter style....... never use the newer ones as they will not work for long and could damage the ring gear.
Would Autozone have sold me a product that could damage my truck? I bought the Duralast starter for what that's worth. I read something about shims and am hoping that's not needed.
Any direction would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time and keep up the great work on this forum!
1990 F350 Dually with 7.3L IDI (Reman Motorcraft)
Well, any starter can damage the ring gear if it doesn't kick out far enough to fully engage the ring gear due to wear, age, low voltage, etc, so the answer to your question is yes, AutoZone (or Advance, O'Reilly, NAPA, the Ford dealership, etc) DID sell you something that COULD damage the truck, in the same way they'll sell you a water pump that WILL eventually wear out and COULD cause your engine to overheat when it does.
Anyway, if all you're getting is the spinning with no grinding, it sounds like the solenoid is bad and no longer kicking out the Bendix to engage the ring gear.
These starters don't use shims, only the types that bolt upward into the block do because due to manufacturing tolerances they can place the pinion gear too close or too far away from the ring gear for optimal engagement.
Check my lists of common part numbers in my photos! Updated often!
1990 Jeep Wrangler Sahara, in the process of a major overhaul/upgrade. OM617 on the horizon! Front & rear Dana 44s from a Wagoneer till I get some 1-ton axles built & narrowed, and eventually a front shackle reversal. Diesel YJ, bay-BEE, and not a cookie-cutter 4BT conversion!
As the solenoid engages the contacts which activate the starter motor at the same time it pushes on the fork to engage the pinion, it seems like your starter is wrong or broken.
When the ignition switch is closed, current flows to coils P and H. As current flows in the coils of the switch, the plunger is pulled in and this causes the drive pinion to be pushed out into engagement with the flywheel ring gear. At the same time, the main solenoid contact (P1) closes and allows battery voltage to pass to the starter motor. When the P1 contact is closed, no current flows in coil P and the solenoid plunger is held in by coil H.
When the ignition switch is opened (after engine start-up), contact P1 opens, and the starter motor disengages and stops. The drive pinion is pulled out of engagement with the flywheel by the return spring in the main solenoid.
1992 F250 XLT 4x4 Super Cab 7.3 IDI E40D 3.55 ATS 088 4"R.C 360k
1982 MBZ 300SD W126 California model w/Sunroof, no EGR
1997 Audi A8 Quattro 225k Warm/Cold packages
Hi again and thanks for the replies. I wanted to reopen this conversation for the benefit of myself and other beginners who might be shopping around for a new starter motor. I returned my Duralast to Autozone, where they bench tested it and said it was fine. I took the cash instead of a replacement and went to Napa and asked for a Mitsubishi motor, which I read on this forum was a desirable one. They gave me three options, two "rebuilt" and one "remanufactured", none of which is actually done by Mitsubishi. The expensive one was remanufactured from new components by a company I hadn't heard of. In summary, "Mitsubishi" seems to be a style of starter motor in this era, rather than a brand.
I think I will order either a Denso or Motorcraft motor online, at about $220 or $240 respectively, with core charge. My question is, are these motors also remanufactured by an anonymous third party? Are you buying a style or a brand with them?
If Autozone was right, and my motor was fine, it looks like I should investigate whether my starter is getting a full 13 volts. I have an electrical tester gadget, but it's only rated for 10 amps. What is a good tool to test for voltage when the system is hot? Any links to favorites?
PS - wanted to ask, is there a particular kind of solder that would be good to use when attaching connectors to the ends of wires? Is rosin core OK?
1990 F350 Dually with 7.3L IDI (Reman Motorcraft)
this is the starter you want.it is a nippondenso style chinese made and virtually no issues with the 8 I have put on.
and they are brand new. yes rosin core, is for electrical. acid core is for tinwork. like radiators and such.
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