Newbie comin to the masters here...White Smoke!!HELP!

[fastturbo4]

SO...I'm new to the diesel game....but being an avid mechanic and motorcycle nut, I took the liberty to scam the forums for my problem as well as recorded all my old and new parts replacements on this van.
I just bought a 1994 Ford E-350 box van. It has 300K and doesn't leak a drop of oil. Now....I'm having the white smoke problem. It reeks of diesel smell. I bought the van 6 hours from me. Upon pickup it fired up instantly with no smoking. After warmup the smoking started. I stopped to fillup for my 6 hour roadtrip and I couldn't restart, as it wass cranking slow and not firing enough. Oil was overfilled (get to that later).Scratched my head, jumper cables, ether, blah blah. Got it restarted and drove it over 5 hours home...smoking all the way. Van WILL NOT restart after initial startup. Starts perfectly and easily when cold/sitting.
Upon my inspections and between an auto (non-diesel) mechanic friend we determined it may have an injector problem (hydro locking after warmup/start and explains the oil overfill due to the fuel seeping past the rings AFTER sitting overnight). Now...it "appears" to have new glow plugs, new injector pump/distributor, new starter solonoid (which I think is the GP controller in the back of the intake), new GP wiring harness, recent Ford Reman trans, new upper fuel filter. Pretty much the previous owners were chasing the problem. Now...I inspected the injectors...they had factory paint on them like they were the stockers. Bought a set of Reman Ford ones off Ebay. Installed them along with a new belt and changed the oil. Upon installation, I found only ONE reman injector and that one along with another were soaked with fuel upon removal. The others seemed to have minor carbon buildup. Replaced, and now the van started right up (after cranking a bit to remove excess fuel) and ran really nice. Could shut it off and restart easily. Cut the white smoke in HALF, but NOT gone.
Here's MORE: SO I set the van up for my shop...to go racing with 3 bikes, etc....figure, that if I drive it the smoke will cut down. I tried to "time" it BTW, but the crappy Snap-On pulse converter wouldn't work, so I left it. I get the van home shut it off...back to the hydro-locking attitude....cranking like it's binding up. Let it cool, jumper cables off my buddy's 05 Powerstroke..finally a restart! Drive it 1.5 hours one way to race. Cooled for 2 hours or so, cranked and slow, but a restart and drove it 1.5 hours back. Oil is showing overfill like fuel is getting past the rings. SO...BEFORE you suggest head cracks, gaskets or warpage....the van only showed a little heat during the INTIAL drive for the 5 hours when I bought it. SInce the new injectors...BELOW the middle of normal on the gauge(90+degress out here)...so no overheating. After over 10 hours of constant white smoking, MOSTLY heavy under acceleration and light during cruise, there is NO COOLANT LOSS whatsoever...not to mention KILLER gas mileage, especially over my Triton V-10 Buss I just sold!! When I bought it, I got home in under 6 hours on a full tank with a 1/4 left!! With the newer injectors, evne better!
To recap: New hard parts, all of which are suggested in most forums. Hydrolocking is still a symptom. Fuel is still in the oil, but oil is clean for a diesel. White smoke all over. Full tank of fuel with Lucas fuel additive (for diesels too). Starter is weak and clicking thanks to the hydrolocking...I hear I can bent rods from it. Batteries are standard. My plans....new batteries, new starter. Fuel seems to be getting past the injectors into the cylinders, why? I know I may have a worn engine or cylinders, but low compression does't have anything to do with fuel seepage. The motor runs quite well, not killer power but drivable. Also the exhaust seems to PUFF the smoke out, like there may be a weak cylinder, but it may just be too much fuel/air to burn it all and may cause non-firing all-together. Any help is greatly appreciated!

[cdnsarguy]

Check/change the manual fuel lift pump, front pax side-lower corner of the block...... it could be the culprit. They can leak into the oil pan if the diaphram is fubar.

How is the coolant for clean/oil??????

Do check the batteries and the starter for condition, batteries should be minimum 850CCA each or better. Starter should spin the engine faster than you can count revolutions......200rpm+

Since yours is a 94 there should be no way the fuel is getting into the oil pan via the injection pump unless yours has an old style pump not the 5013 non turbo or the 5070 turbom IP. Did you get the right code injectors...... is this a turbo or non turbo motor.

Please be so kind as to put much needed info in your signature, go to "My Home" at the top of the page then "Personal info" click "Edit" put "all known" particulars for your truck/van in the signature block, any other info you feel worthwhile in other parts of this area. Fill in the "geographic location" too it is just as important, members can then direct you to the best known suppliers for parts, repairs, fuel etc closest you by location/ area/country. You could be just around the corner from a member willing to assist you or a parts store with what you need..
THANK YOU

<font color="blue"> EDIT....... the white smoke could be ......an air leak into the fuel system......retarded timing.

Evaluating Normal Diesel Engine Exhaust Smoke

The following is a description of what is normal and expected exhaust smoke for a vehicle with a diesel engine. Diesel exhaust smoke can be classified into two categories according to the color of the smoke.

NOTE:
Chassis fuel system air leaks may also cause continuous heavy blue-white smoke.

The first category is blue-white smoke.

l Blue-white smoke may be observed at engine start-up whether the engine is up to operating temperatures or not. This start-up smoke will be observed at all ambient temperatures and should last no longer than a minute after the vehicle is driven.

l When ambient temperature is below 10°C (50°F), blue-white smoke can return after the engine warm-up due to extended idling. This is due to the combustion chambers cooling down during periods of extended idling time.

Heavy blue-white smoke will also occur when the engine is operated at wide-open throttle (accelerator pedal to the floor) with the transmission in NEUTRAL or with a lightly loaded vehicle in any transmission gear setting. The smoke is a normal characteristic for a diesel engine with a light min.-max. governor spring in the fuel injection pump. This results in the following characteristics due to the engine operating above its rated speed (3300 rpm) in a no-load or lightly loaded condition:

* Heavy blue-white smoke.

* Fuel injection pump governor hunting resulting in high speed engine rpm surging.

* Engine sputtering or misfiring.

The conditions can be eliminated by operating the engine at or below its maximum full load rated speed of 3000 rpm.

The second category of diesel exhaust smoke is black smoke. Black smoke occurs whenever the engine is working hard. The engine works hard when it is going up a steep grade, pulling a trailer, carrying a heavy load, or during acceleration. More black smoke will be observed when operating the vehicle at higher altitudes. If black smoke is observed while the engine is idling (at low altitude) or under normal driving conditions, the problem should be diagnosed as soon as possible.
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[Mr_Roboto]

I think you're retarded....

The timing I mean. When you start up the engine cold, there is a timing advance solenoid that operates to advance the timing. You state that it does not smoke until the engine warms up. Also if the timing is retarded, you will not get a complete fuel burn so there is liquid fuel left to get by the rings. Don't look at piston rings as a seal, but as a permeable barrier that slows things down.

There is a timing retard arm on the drivers side of the injector pump. Work the throttle linkage by hand, and watch the retard arm. It should move in and out at the bottom a good 1/2 to 9/16" or more. When I bought one of my vans this arm was stuck IN which caused the timing to be retarded at low speeds.

If the arm checks out OK I would run a jumper wire to the advance solenoid and see if that helps the smoke. http://photos.thedieselstop.com/show...amp;thecat=998 If that does help, I would mark the present IP position (so you can return it if needed) and advance the timing slightly. A little rotation does a lot on these.

To advance timing turn the IP to the passenger side. You will need to make a special wrench to access the 3 IP bolts. You need a 9/16 wrench which you will grind both the sides and outside of the box end. Just grind and test fit, you will get it. You have to take quite a bit of metal off. BTW, Sears sells a generic brand of wrenches individually which is what I used.

[Zrob]

Also, if the inj's were originals, the IP prolly is to. It's prolly time for a new pump