lower actuator rod broken hav'nt been able to get lower broken section out i can touch both ends & it slides up & down how does this !@##$$%%^^^^^%%$#@#@@ darn thing come out. i even took the .45 out & threatened it still no go help help help?
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97 dodge 2500 4x4 cc lb 12V auto 3.54 pillar gauges 215 nozzels
31'TT at 8000 lbs
94 explorer
steering wheel comes off, remove turn signal assembly, then when you get all the way in there, the broken metal piece will come out in two pieces, but the new one won't go in unless you remove the two side bolts with a special tool. I forget what the tool is called, but you can't do it without it.
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1991 F250 XLT, 2WD, 7.3L IDI, 5 speed, 168K.
wheel is off turn signal out & switch housing removed, plastic cover below out column retainer removed, 3 allen bolts removed from under tilt mech. onlt trim still there is the section that covers the button to release the key in normal operation.
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97 dodge 2500 4x4 cc lb 12V auto 3.54 pillar gauges 215 nozzels
31'TT at 8000 lbs
94 explorer
Ok, the very last step is removing two metal threaded screw things, one on each side of the black steering housing. Takes a special tool that I borrowed from my very cool independent truck repair shop. Once those two screw things are removed, you slide the housing down, but not off! Just slide and tilt enough to remove and reinstall $10 metal tilt actuator part, then reverse install everything to finish. Make sure you remember to attach bottom end to the rod that goes to the ignition switch.
Hope this helps,
Hugh
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1991 F250 XLT, 2WD, 7.3L IDI, 5 speed, 168K.
hugh d are you talking about 3 phillips screws coming in from the dash side of the column that i can see in a mirror.got screws out collar slid foward can slide broken shaft up till it hits on hinge? but still needs at least 3/8" more room to remove.
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97 dodge 2500 4x4 cc lb 12V auto 3.54 pillar gauges 215 nozzels
31'TT at 8000 lbs
94 explorer
These two are threaded metal posts, one on each side (ie. driver and passenger sides), I think...it was 1.5 years ago that I did mine. Searching the archives gives me nothing, I'll keep trying to find the name of that tool.
How about "Shroud Retaining Screws". Any luck?
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1991 F250 XLT, 2WD, 7.3L IDI, 5 speed, 168K.
The removal tool threads inside the pivet pin, then you extract the pivet pin by twisting the bolt on the tool as the tool presses against the column and pulls out the pin (like picture). Once the two pins are removed, then you can tilt the column down another 1/2" or so and slide the new tilt actuator inside the column. Just slide the column housing enough to get it in, not anymore than you need to.
Realign the holes and push the pins back in after you are finished, no threads on the outside of the pin, just the inside.
Not difficult once you have the two pivet pins removed. Impossible without removing the two pivet pins.
--Hugh
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1991 F250 XLT, 2WD, 7.3L IDI, 5 speed, 168K.
It is a pleasure to be able to help another TDS member get their truck back on the road. My diesel knowledge is limited to what I have learned since buying my first diesel truck a few years ago. Almost everyday that I visit TDS, I learn something new.
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