not plugging in block heater in cold weather? - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
Ford Diesel Forum / Powerstroke Forum
Ford Diesel Forum / Powerstroke Forum
Go Back   Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com > Ford Diesels > 7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes)

7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes) Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the 7.3 Liter In-Direct Injection Navistar engines.

TheDieselstop.com is the premier Diesel Truck Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 11-21-2008, 12:15 PM   #1 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
dieseldirt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Vermont
Posts: 251
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
not plugging in block heater in cold weather?

i have a '94 IDI factory turbo that cold starts really well.

i live in a cold climate and sometimes dont have access to a place to plug in my block heater.

i cycle the GP's a bit then start it and it fires right up.

this has been working fine in 20 degree weather and ive been driving it to warm it up..
it is gonna get a lot colder than this and i am wondering if it's bad for my truck to not plug in the block heater. some people say freezing is the cut off, some people say zero... others say just cycle the plugs before you crank and your fine, etc.....

thanks!
dieseldirt is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 11-21-2008, 12:17 PM   #2 (permalink)
Lifetime Supporting Member
 
Mark Kovalsky's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 1999
Location: SE Florida, USA
Posts: 9,652
My Photos: (6)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
It's there to make it easier to start. If you can start without it you're fine.

I once had to leave a '98 E350 PSD unplugged overnight when it went down to -35F. It started in the morning. This was actual temperature, not wind chill.
__________________
Mark
Former Automatic Transmission Engineer 1988-2007

“The good thing about science is that it's true whether or not you believe in it.” ― Neil deGrasse Tyson
Mark Kovalsky is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-21-2008, 12:25 PM   #3 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
dieseldirt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Vermont
Posts: 251
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
great. yeah so far it's only 20 and it still cold starts great.

i go easy on it till its nice and warm. just wanted to make sure i wasn't putting stress on anything, etc
dieseldirt is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-21-2008, 12:53 PM   #4 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Cody, Wy
Posts: 9,890
My Photos: (27)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
I agree with Mark, if the engine's kept in tip-top shape (glow plugs, injection system, etc) it should fire up even when it's mighty cold.
Quote:
i go easy on it till its nice and warm.
Right, me too, I let mine blubber for a while after it first fires, then turn on my fast idle switch.
__________________
Heavy truck and diesel mechanic (thankfully retired after 30+ yrs)
'91 F-250 SC 4X4, 5spd. ATS Turbo, 3:55 diff.
LMJD is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-21-2008, 01:26 PM   #5 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,083
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Heck, I turn on my high idle during the glow cycle and don't shut it off till temperature gauge gets near the lower mark on that "normal" range, sure seems to help moving that brick in cold weather
__________________

M.L.S.C. is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-21-2008, 04:44 PM   #6 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
cdnsarguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Neepawa, Manitoba Canada
Posts: 20,672
My Photos: (109)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Just go to WTS light out first time....... shut off and back on.... now go for start at WTS light out this time...... set the fuel pedal for fast idle and timing advance and add a little pedal if you wish. It takes a few starts each year to remember what got it going best last year.......

Lowest temperature start I had not plugged in for 4 days ........minus 45F. Took several GP warmups......but it started. As per Ford Supplimental Diesel engine manual oil viscosities are another helper......

6.9-7.3 Engine oil requirements.

32F to 100F+........30wt

0F to 100F+..........15W-40

32F to way below freezing ........10W-30

With the new oils...... 0W-40 is a good choice too in extreme cold
__________________
93 F250 7.3 IDI S/C XLT 4X4 E40D 3.55LS, Captains chairs, Tutone Mocha, Leer 48" Hiboy cap, FR & RR hitches, full DeeZee running boards. Factory ordered/delivered Jan 93

Toys: 2006 37' Triple E Embassy coach (powered by Cummins), 18' Sylvan Pro Fish with Mariner motors.

Proud Canadian BOOB man too!!

Please PRIVATE MESSAGE only!! ...
Please DO NOT.....visitor message me...
cdnsarguy is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-21-2008, 10:37 PM   #7 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
vlamica's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Novato, Calif.
Posts: 327
My Photos: (19)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Ok .. you guys are going to laugh

Set the high idle switch?! What? I have been trying to figure out how that works.. This is done with the pedal? I drove the truck for two hours and found that it was idling high and found the plunger all the way out.. Didnt make sense to me as the truck was all warmed up. I plugged mine in last night to see what the temp on the gauge was going to be once started. Started perfect and the needle was just off the rest position.. nice warm heater by the time i got down the street..
__________________
1994 F-350 7.3 IDIT, Dually crew
C6, Gear Vendors Over/under drive unit
Roll along package, Alcoa wheels
2001 Airstream 30' S/O 70th Anniversary
Air-safe hitch coupled to a Reese Dual Cam
vlamica is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-22-2008, 12:12 AM   #8 (permalink)
Junior Member
 
Mikey141414's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Roeland Park, KS
Posts: 29
My Photos: (1)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
I am friends with a guy who got his first Honda to 615,000 miles and his second to 1,000,000. They gave him a new one for free each time. His secret among other things was always keeping a block heater on and running synthetic oil.

His thinking on the block heater was that metal and rubber parts wear out faster when temp goes to extremes: really cold to really hot.

Even in summer he keeps car on heater. I have tried to follow this, but slack in summer. I keep my Jetta on heater all winter.

It makes sense though.

No reason to reinvent the wheel: learn from others.

mikey
__________________
1988 F250
7.3 IDI
4X4 single cab
POS, but getting better!

Last edited by Mikey141414; 11-22-2008 at 12:21 AM. Reason: forgot link
Mikey141414 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-22-2008, 02:53 AM   #9 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,083
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by vlamica View Post
Set the high idle switch?! What? I have been trying to figure out how that works.. This is done with the pedal? I drove the truck for two hours and found that it was idling high and found the plunger all the way out.. Didnt make sense to me as the truck was all warmed up. I plugged mine in last night to see what the temp on the gauge was going to be once started. Started perfect and the needle was just off the rest position.. nice warm heater by the time i got down the street..
Ever owned an older vehicle with a carburetor? Our high idle works just like their electric chokes, it activates automatically when you turn the ignition on, then as the engine warms up the high idle drops off. IIRC one of all the temperature probes in our engine is a simple switch (vs. a sender unit) that conducts voltage till the engine gets up to 120F, then it interrupts the current and results in fast idle and cold advance solenoids shutoff. Not knowing the internals of said switch, I'd venture to guess it's failed in the "cold" position. I actually have kinda the opposite issue, my high idle drops off after only a few minutes of running, so I put in a manual switch to keep it longer during warmup, and also use it when I'm jumping someone.
__________________

M.L.S.C. is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-22-2008, 06:07 AM   #10 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
cdnsarguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Neepawa, Manitoba Canada
Posts: 20,672
My Photos: (109)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Ever owned an older vehicle with a carburetor? Our high idle works just like their electric chokes, it activates automatically when you turn the ignition on,
Correct....... BUT....... we require the fuel pedal to be pushed to move the fuel lever so the Fast Idle solenoid can extend and hold the lever at the higher idle speed. The solenoid does not push the pedal when activated..... just fills in the gap as required.
__________________
93 F250 7.3 IDI S/C XLT 4X4 E40D 3.55LS, Captains chairs, Tutone Mocha, Leer 48" Hiboy cap, FR & RR hitches, full DeeZee running boards. Factory ordered/delivered Jan 93

Toys: 2006 37' Triple E Embassy coach (powered by Cummins), 18' Sylvan Pro Fish with Mariner motors.

Proud Canadian BOOB man too!!

Please PRIVATE MESSAGE only!! ...
Please DO NOT.....visitor message me...
cdnsarguy is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-22-2008, 12:03 PM   #11 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 2,457
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Remember that BH's do not operate for free.
8 hours a day, for 30 days, = an additional $29.20 on you electrical bill.
This is assuming $.10 per KW hour, and a BH of 1000W.
Most will pay more, some will pay less.
What does electricity cost in central Canada?
__________________
'93 F-250 IDI, 4x4, K&N, no soup bowl, stock, with 265,XXX miles 5 speed, 3.55, kind of new LUK clutch, runs great, starts great, it is great. The truck is getting old.
BuilderBob is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-22-2008, 12:22 PM   #12 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Snotzalot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Pocono Mountains, PA
Posts: 4,210
My Photos: (5)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Bob that's what appliance timers are for, turn on 3 hours prior to your morning start and the cost is under $10 bucks a month.
__________________
Regards,

Paul - Pocono Mtns. USA
02 E350 15 Passenger Cream Puff, 72,000 Miles, 5.4L Gasser

'90 E350 7.3L Ex-Ambulance High Top 420K Miles, No Turbo, Stock Stock stock, No ELC! (Extended Life Coolant) & 10 Oz. Bars Stop Leak. 10 wonderful cool years using Freeze12 without any AC system modifications. Retired 11/8/2011 with blown trans.


Drunk Driving - America's #1 Form Of Terrorism!
Snotzalot is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-22-2008, 12:33 PM   #13 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 2,457
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Atta boy, Snoz
You are correct.
There are many cheap timers, these will not handle the 1000W load.
They just blow open, never to work again.
If there are those that have the talent, get a cheap timer to drive a 20A-30A relay, have that relay power the BH.

I have neon test light, wired to terminal block under the hood.
One side of the terminal block goes to the BH, opposite side has the neon test light, and cord wires that lead to the outlet.
I can crack the hood and peer in to see the neon light, than I know the BH is getting voltage.
Terminal blocks allow replacement of the outlet side of the cord.
The common problem occurs at the male end, as it shakes in the wind, as you drive.
__________________
'93 F-250 IDI, 4x4, K&N, no soup bowl, stock, with 265,XXX miles 5 speed, 3.55, kind of new LUK clutch, runs great, starts great, it is great. The truck is getting old.
BuilderBob is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-22-2008, 01:31 PM   #14 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Snotzalot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Pocono Mountains, PA
Posts: 4,210
My Photos: (5)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Yup the male plug takes a beating, this is my 3rd replacement of the plug in 10 years.
__________________
Regards,

Paul - Pocono Mtns. USA
02 E350 15 Passenger Cream Puff, 72,000 Miles, 5.4L Gasser

'90 E350 7.3L Ex-Ambulance High Top 420K Miles, No Turbo, Stock Stock stock, No ELC! (Extended Life Coolant) & 10 Oz. Bars Stop Leak. 10 wonderful cool years using Freeze12 without any AC system modifications. Retired 11/8/2011 with blown trans.


Drunk Driving - America's #1 Form Of Terrorism!
Snotzalot is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-22-2008, 02:18 PM   #15 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
TonkaThunder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Madison, Wisconsin
Posts: 825
My Photos: (6)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
15w40 is molassas at anything below 20degrees. So every bit of heat you can have in the motor on a "cold" start the better!
__________________
03 F-350 DRW Lariat 7.3,4x4 6-Speed, 4.10Gears , 4 inch ProComp lift, BFG AT LT315/75R16, 3 in. spacer between duals.
GT38R 1.0 Housing
Banks Monster Exhaust, w/Turbo Elbow, AFE Stage 2 Cold Air Kit, South Bend Stg 2 Clutch & Cyro'ed Flywheel
Full Force Stage 1 Singles & TS 6-Position
2 Optima Red Tops
Auto Meter Boost and Pyro Gauges
8,200lbs---Cat Scale---Thats me and and 38 Gallons of Diesel

1987 Mustang GT Cobra Clone

34 Ft Kaufman Solid Deck 2-Car Hauler
TonkaThunder is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com > Ford Diesels > 7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes)

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



» Wheel & Tire Center

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:21 PM.



Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0

vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.