Oil pan gasket and rear main seal? - Diesel Forum

LowBudget · 06-22-2007, 08:14 AM

Ok, this may be a dumb question. I am getting ready to do my oil pan gasket and rear main seal. Just looking for any tips to make this go as easy as possible. What is the best plan of attack? I've considered just pulling the motor but I'd rather not. It's a stick shift if it makes a difference. I may pull the transmission already since second gear syncro is acting up at times on 3-2 downshifts. Any help would be appreciated.

Eric

91diesel · 06-22-2007, 08:24 AM

It isnt that hard to pull the transmission so I would do it. You MUST at least lift the engine to gain access to the oil pan. The rear seal isnt hard but I am pretty sure you have to remove transmission and flywheel/flexplate. Keep all your bolts in separate boxes or little tins and mark them. This is what i do most every time theres an amount of bolts being removed. Lifting the engine and taking transmission out isnt near as hard as it sounds (least it wasnt for me). Good luck!

olred · 06-22-2007, 02:19 PM

iv egot to do the same thing sence my rear main is leaking after replacing it when i had the c-6 tranny rebuilt in the 1st of may this year. let me know how it goes.

LowBudget · 06-22-2007, 06:50 PM

I looked up the rear main seal procedure at work today on Mitchell on Demand and it lists a couple special tools. I'd like to find out if these are necessary or not. I mean they always list special tools for other jobs that are never needed. I'd like to "tackle" this in the next couple weeks. Thanks again

91diesel · 06-22-2007, 07:10 PM

I think maybe you need a slide hammer. Not expensive and can be used for many things with other attachments. You could probably get away with out one but it would be a little hard. Its a lot easier though, you can get them at sears or some auto parts stores.

cdnsarguy · 06-23-2007, 12:15 AM

Punch a screw into the metal of the rear seal, screw it in a little, using a claw hammer now pull out the seal..... Check the crank for scoring of the old seal.

Check out if this seal kit will fit your truck..... comes with seal, speedy sleeve and INSTALLATION TOOLS....

Rear seal kit

F2TZ 6701 A

icanfixall · 06-23-2007, 01:13 AM

Do not use a oil pan gasket... It will leak for sure. All the "real" gasket sets ( Felpro) don't offer a pan gasket and my Navistar service states not to use a pan gasket. A high grade RTV is all you need. I use Permatex Copper Plus. It has never let me down. I've used it for years on valve covers and oil pans without any leaks ever. And any gasser needs it for the intake manifold fronts and back seal areas. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif[/img]

LowBudget · 06-23-2007, 11:43 PM

I think I've heard before about using silicone instead of a gasket, not a job I want to do twice. I'll call Ford Monday on that rear main seal kit and see what they have to say. I can't stand these oil leaks, I've got something up higher leaking as well. Not sure what yet but the pan gasket is the biggest by far. Thanks again

cdnsarguy · 06-24-2007, 12:41 AM

Be aware if the leak is above it may be seeping into the rear main seal area.....the seal may not be the problem. Solve ALL upper leaks first.

Fozz · 06-24-2007, 05:31 AM

You can get an oil pan gasket on without pulling the engine. I did it recently by cutting the gasket (NAPA has them) in half (near the rear of the gasket/engine), then slipping the gasket back into place. I used some rtv to mate the two halves. The pan will drop enough to slip the gasket in. No leaks on my truck!