T eh stock oil pans that came on our trucks have always had a problem with rusting. paint has always had a hard time sticking to a hot oily surface, not much we can really do about that. anyways you can use any oil pan form a 2wd or a 4wd off a 6.9L or a 7.3L IDI diesel. it dosnet matter what year it is, they never changed the pan form the 6.9L to the 7.3, it just has to be an IDI motor. ive looked around for a new one, and your prolly gonna pay about $100-$150 bucks at most stores and it will prolly have to be special ordered. my personal recomendation would be to get the outer part of your new oil pan powder coated with the color of your prefrence so you wont have this problem again, if you spray paint it or get it painted professionaly it will just do this again down the road. powder coating is the nly thing i have found that will hod up to the heat, you just cant use it on exhaust manifolds. as far as romoving the pan goes, i hate to break it to you, but their is no easy way of doing it. your going to have to dissconnect your radiator hoses/ac lines if u have them, unbolt your motor mounts and trans mounts, and you will have to jack the engine up and out of the way of the crossmember to clear te bottom of the crnakshaft. the same goes for installation, the only thing i cant stress enought to u is to MAKE SHURE!!! that you have the bottom of the block where the oil pan mouts to it, flawlessly clean, otherwise you will have leaks, ive done it myself before. and dont be afraid of the RTV sealent, this is you best friend against a good sealing oil pan gasket. i wish you the best of luck, as loog as your handy with your truck and you can get your hands or the right tools to do this, you shuldnt have much of a problem. Good Luck!!
remove the fan shroud bolts--and loosen--remove the engine mount bolts---and jack till the back of engine hits firewall--and dont jack on the front of the crank--jack at the very back of front crank--then--remove all pan bolts--after draining oil--when it drops--unbolt back retaining bolt of oil pickup--then remove the two pump bolts--let it drop in pan--and fanigle it out--wont be easy--but it will come out--been there--done that--three times on brothers truck--dont ask---indecisive people---his truck was 4x4---have to remove the exhaust pipes also--
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94 f250 idi turbo sc e4od alum fac rims 149,289 --dana 60 frt with posi--10.25 rear w/posi--shouldnt get stuck!! ats turbo 3" parts on--what a diff from stock turbo!!!!!--- also 96 F250 with 305,000 is fixed!!-- 7.3 rattler-also 85 6.9-needs new engine!! tired!!
and--depending where the pan is rusted--you could also drain the oil--put the plug back in with no gasket---and then weld the bad spot with a acetylene torch---been there--done that a quite few times when worked at the ford garage---dont braze it--tooo hard to control downward puddle--use steel rod---and you say the oil left in there will catch fire---soooo?????????? wheres it gonna go?????????? itll burn out--
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94 f250 idi turbo sc e4od alum fac rims 149,289 --dana 60 frt with posi--10.25 rear w/posi--shouldnt get stuck!! ats turbo 3" parts on--what a diff from stock turbo!!!!!--- also 96 F250 with 305,000 is fixed!!-- 7.3 rattler-also 85 6.9-needs new engine!! tired!!
Are there any benefits from welding the pan with an oxy acetylene torch instead of a MIG or TIG? The only way to make overhead welding any worse is to be under a vehicle.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sign_man</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Are there any benefits from welding the pan with an oxy acetylene torch instead of a MIG or TIG? The only way to make overhead welding any worse is to be under a vehicle. </div></div> ya--no sparks flying from the mig -------and can control the heat of melting the rod to the pan better---also---no flying metal from mig inside of pan!!!!!!!!!!! pretty hard to weld thin pan with mig-----
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94 f250 idi turbo sc e4od alum fac rims 149,289 --dana 60 frt with posi--10.25 rear w/posi--shouldnt get stuck!! ats turbo 3" parts on--what a diff from stock turbo!!!!!--- also 96 F250 with 305,000 is fixed!!-- 7.3 rattler-also 85 6.9-needs new engine!! tired!!
ya, the mig tends to leave gaps when you make multiple passes, so it leaks (speaking from experience). however, if you cover your welds with a coating of jb weld, you will prolly be successful.
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92 f250 xlt std cab 4x4 e4od 4.10 7.3 idi na
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