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Re: Please help on brake problem
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The pedal is better but you have to pump it about three times for it to get firm, but then it slowly goes to the floor while you have pressure on it.
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Thats a typical sign of a master cylinder going bad. One tip, after you bench bleed it and install it, while the bleeder hoses are still attached, have someone hold it almost all the way down (put a 2x4 under the pedal to be sure). Then while they are holding it down, install the brake lines. That way when they release the pedal it should pull any air from the lines back into the M/C where it can filter to the top of the resevoir. I did this when I changed the M/C on my wifes car, and didn't even have to bleed the brakes afterwards.
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My pics...
Sorry to all the loyal 7.3 guys, but I traded my '91 7.3 in on a 2002 F250 Ex cab V10 4x4. SCT Xcalibrator2 with tunes by Powerplay Performance. 285/75/16 Toyo M/T's. Took a long time to get used to the ping-pop of a cooling catalytic converter...LOL.
'85 Bronco swapped up to a 302 4bbl from the 300 I6, NP435 4spd, NP208, 32x11.50x15 Radial RVT's, Soon to be 6.9 turbo powered.
86 F350 Cab&Chassis with a dump bed. 2wd 6.9 and 4 spd tranny. No mods to engine.
2000 Volvo 660 N14 Cummins, 500hp 1650 ft lbs, Autoshift tranny 10spd.
What part of "SHALL NOT INFRINGE" do you NOT understand?
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