Power Window Works One Day...then out the next?!?!?!?! Help! - Diesel Forum

skiingislife725 · 06-13-2006, 01:09 AM

Ok, here's the problem. The other day I fixed my power window on my driver's side. Actually, what happened was I pulled the switch off after it didn't work...then put it back in and it worked. Lucky me. BUT now...its back to not working again. I had about a day of it working and then when I rolled it all the way up, it never wanted to come back down. What happened?
Some things I noticed while trying to figure it out.
-when I press the switch to have the window go up, it makes some noise like it wants to go up more, but won't do it the other way
-one of the two wires on the motor has a small gouge in it...would that explain the problem? does one wire make the motor go one way while the other wire makes it go the other?

any reply is much appreciated!

strayder · 06-13-2006, 02:54 AM

There is a bad connection in most of the power windows on this trucks I think, coz this happend to me too all the time before I greased the connectors with copper paste. (I used to hit the door to "shock" the bad connectors.. sometimes it worked too [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]...) Now they are working all the time. (The last time the window stayed down was, off cause!, when it was freezing 25 degrease cold outside...)

So open the cover on your doors (You might do it on the other window too, coz its just a mater of time until the problem pop up there too...) and look at/open all the connectors. Bye some copper paste (or simular) to secure a good connecton on all the electric connectors.

To your questions:
The window have no stoppers or pressure switches or someting like that, so the window motor will try to push the window up even after the window is up if you press the up button... So its safe to say that you shall NOT lock the window when it is someone in between and be carefull to let the children play with them, they might get strangeled.....

No, a bend or a gouge in the wire is not making any errors on it if it not broken or teared of in that gouge or bend.... A DC motor must have at least two wires, on pluss and one minus. To make the motor go the opposite way just flip the positive connection to the negative connection and vice versa with the minus cable....

I don't remember, but I think this motors has tree wires connected to them? They are, I think, so "big" that they have the field and the anchor curcuits seperated so to turn it they just turn the ancor or field, so it will be "two" pluss (For up and down) and one earth (or battery minus or negative cable). Again, I'm not sure of this, but it really does not matter, coz all you have to do is secure a good connection with copper paste.... just be carefull when you put the stuff on, is easy to short curcuit the whole curcuit if you put it between the connectors and not just on the connectors that fits together...

Hopes this helps you a little bit.

[img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]

[img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]

cdnsarguy · 06-13-2006, 04:44 AM

Instead of copper past, use Dielectric grease much safer and it improves electrical connections.

skiingislife725 · 06-13-2006, 10:59 PM

Alright...today I took the motor off and when I pushed the switch, the motor worked both ways. So...I figured maybe the window was just too hard to roll up by just that motor. Did a little adjusting and then went to roll it up again. Worked fine for maybe 3-4 times completely then went out again. So...I loosened the bolts on the motor...disengaged it from the regulator and then reconnected it. Worked again for a bit. So, every time that I disconnect and reconnect the regulator to the motor gear, it works for a bit, then quits. What's the deal? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]

mgraveman · 06-13-2006, 11:20 PM

I'm guessing brushes,,,

new motor time.

adelyser · 06-14-2006, 01:31 AM

It could also be the drive bushings inside the motor. There are 3 drive bushings made of plastic inside the motor gear assembly. Once you take the motor out, remove the last screw and the cover will come off. Check to see that these bushings are not coming apart due to age, I had one bushing completely explode and jammed the gears all up. If they are shot, you can buy new bushings, I got mine from Ebay, about $12 for both windows.

OkieGringo · 06-14-2006, 02:32 AM

I replaced my window motor units a couple of yrs ago and am having the same problem with both sides. I've been loosening the lock nut on the top of the motor and turning the screw just a little. It'll work for a while then quit again. Just after I replaced the units I learned about those kits on eBay and bought 2. If I can find them, I'll take the units out and see *** is going on. I've checked the switches and they always have juice even when the motor doesn't work, so I don't think the problem is with the switches. If/when I get it figured out I'll let ya'll know. OkieG

skiingislife725 · 06-15-2006, 12:58 AM

Well I finally fixed the stubborn sob. 82fordtruck said it might be the brushes. So I started pulling the motor apart and it was pretty dirty with magnet dust in there. Cleaned off all the copper wire and the 'brushes' and popped it back together. Had it going the opposite way at first. Up switch was down and the down switch was up. But now its working. It's nice being able to stick my arm out the window...haven't been able to do that in forever.

btw...those nylon bushings on the passenger side motor were shot so I replaced those with 3/8" nuts (2 stacked in each of the three slots)...works like a charm (was too impatient to wait for the ebay guy to send em...now I kinda feel dumb for buying them in the first place)

350 long rod · 07-06-2006, 01:36 AM

could you tell me what the bushings were listed under I was not able to find them.My drivers side went away.

mdkarle · 07-06-2006, 08:38 AM

Could be just old and wore out like a lot of us on here. My window motors are sort of like me on a cool winter morning, they may not work at all or they are slow at best lol. During the spring and summer, now that it is hot outside, they work just as good and fast as the family car.

dedsqwirl · 07-06-2006, 10:54 PM

I put a new window motor in on the driver's side of my 88 F250, the door was replaced off a 90 Bronco.

I used a Bosch window motor off the Driver's side of a 91 Econoline conversion van. It fit fine except I had to turn it upside down. I think that the passenger window motor would of fit on the driver's side (in original position) but I didn't check. Of the 20 F series at the pick-a-part only 1 had power windows, and it was picked apart. The van also was easier to pull apart, only 4 rivets to drill out rather than drilling 2 big holes on an F-series.

OkieGringo · 07-07-2006, 02:43 AM

You don't hafta drill big holes. Here is the proceedure that I use...

A little trick to ease motor replacement I have found rather than grinding off the rivets and removing the whole regulator assembly.
Look very closely on the door in the area of the motor and you will see three tiny DIMPLES/center punch marks, one over each bolt that holds the motor to the regulator. Drill through each one with a 1/2" drill bit and you will be able to fit a 1/4" drive 8mm socket through each hole to remove the three bolts holding the motor to the regulator assembly. This is the only way I do it, it saves a lot of time and hassles with grinding the rivets and possibly damaging the door around the rivet holes.
The motor has plastic (I think nylon) rollers inside the head, you can get a head kit from Ford.

Drilling holes where the dimples are is the fastest/easiest way. I drilled the holes at home, took the socket and a long reach magnet with me to the parts store and replaced the motor right there in the lot just in case there was something wrong with the "NEW" one. Took about 10 minutes. I had to do both sides at $67.00 each here in Baja NAPA Store. Okie/BajaGringo

dedsqwirl · 07-07-2006, 04:07 PM

I drilled out the rivets in the Econoline not the F250.