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7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes) Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the 7.3 Liter In-Direct Injection Navistar engines.

       
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Old 05-04-2005, 01:17 PM   #1 (permalink)
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To Re-torque or not to Re-torque

I have been reviewing the install instructions for the Hypermax system that I bought used; thanks PDXman for sending those instructions to me!

The install instructions talk about re-torquing the head bolts prior to installing the turbo, "following 3,00 miles of operation." I assume the 3,000 miles referes to when the engine is new, or has the head re-installed.

I have about 145,000 miles on my 7.3 engine, and the heads have not been off to my knowledge (I bought it with 85,000 miles on it).

Should I re-torque to the specified 110lbs for the 7.3, go to the 85lbs for the 6.9, or not mess with them? What have each of you done when you installed your aftermarket turbo, and how many miles did you have on the motor? I would hate to break a bolt, but would also hate to blow a head gasket.

Thanks again,

Bill
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1993 F250 4x4, Extended cab with a 7.3L IDI, 3.55 axles, 5-speed manual, Hypermax Turbo, 3.5" Hypermax exhaust, No soup bowl, a K&N filter, and a newly installed RDT. Hoping for an intercooler install soon. 152,000+ miles and counting.
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Old 05-04-2005, 02:23 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Re: To Re-torque or not to Re-torque

This was discussed not long ago and generally not many have 're-torqued' the heads when they installed the aftermarket turbo. I haven't, but I also have only 4000 miles on the previously owned(used) ATS non-wastegated unit, and only 200 miles actually pulling a trailer load and even then only pumping in 9 lbs of boost(it might have a leak at the 'hat' connection). [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img]Baja
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<font color="red">1987 F350, 4X4, Crew Cab, DRW, w/'91 7.3 TURBO-CHARGED BY ATS, no-Wastegate(Turbo rebuilt by me 7/2005)</font>, <font color="blue">E4OD Auto, Aux Trans Cooler w/12" fan, w/Baumann Programable Trans Computer-12/05</font>, Rebuilt Injection Pump-2/03, Electric Fuel Pump, Coolant Filter, "BajaGringo Block Drains, 5-Row Radiator Core-9/04, 2 New Plastic Fuel Tanks w/new Sending Units/Pickups, Fuel Filler Neck Mods, Air Ram Intake, Air-Lift SuperDuty AirBags with Smart Lift Auto Leveling-7/2005 <font color="blue">Link to Photo of "OkieGringo Idler Pulley"</font>
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Old 05-04-2005, 02:38 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Re: To Re-torque or not to Re-torque

I turbo'd my '89 at 153K miles. I didn't mess with the head bolts. 88K trouble-free miles and counting.
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Old 05-04-2005, 10:37 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Re: To Re-torque or not to Re-torque

The problem with retorquing, is that it really can't be done. To retorque would require applying lubricant to the threads and all mating surfaces, not to mention chasing the block threads with a tap. Given the circumstances, any attempt to retorque would probably result in a false reading and may actually lessen the available tension. This is why studs are such a good idea. You actually could retorque those, as the only moving parts are all easily lubricated.
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1983 F-250HD 4X4 The Moose Truck - Moose Pump, DPS Injectors, Hypermax Turbo, GV 7spd., 3.54 Gears, Moose Air, RDT, Dual Stacks, 35"tires. My Album 55MPH at 1400 RPM. 19MPG Avg.

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Old 05-04-2005, 10:40 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Re: To Re-torque or not to Re-torque

Banks installed my turbo 8 years ago and it took them 9 hours to do it. They don't retorque the heads on anything they install. If you are running the original head gaskets, they will fail. Its just a matter of time. They weren't made for the extra pressure. Now all you can buy is the "turbo" head gaskets. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif[/img]
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