The truck has been having its way with me the last few months and I'm sick of it!!!
I had a starting issue so replaced the GP's with Beru's, changed fuel filter and starter. Have a good 8-12 second GP cycle time. Batteries load tested. Ran fine for a month or so and then further problems.
Truck would start, run for 5-10 seconds then die. A restart would sometimes happen immediately or then again sometimtes a long enough "grind or two" to run the batteries down. After starting (by the way, the radio always resets when doing a cold start, what does this mean?, it does this even after cleaning both ends of both battery cables) It would stumble and surge for a minute or two then clear up.
I changed out the brass one way fuel fitting on the return line at the filter and replaced all return line caps/o rings/lines and the 5-10 second initial run time disappeared but the stumble and surging continues. I do get surging while acclerating or even at cruise speed and it often "surges" when going over RR tracks or taking a corner at speed.
Injectors are orginal at 130,000 miles, IP was rebuilt 35,000 miles ago by a reputable shop. Fuel tank selector switch works fine, fuel gauges work when they want to!
On the way to work this morning, both the rear anitlock and brake dash lights came on. The brakes seem to be "grabby" and one rear wheel sounds like its skidding when I apply modest pressure to the pedal. Brakes were redone about 30,000 miles ago, just wheel cylinders and linings.
Any help is appreciated as this is my only set of "wheels" and I can't afford to be down too long!
The surging sounds like an air leak somewhere. Are all of the caps on the injectors new? Are they seated all of the way. How full or the fuel tanks? Is the drain on the bottom of the fuel filter open a little?
the Starting issues Sounds like a power issue, with the radio going out etc, I would change the cables, What CCA ar the batteries rated at? I would change them even if the store says they are ok. The last thing I can think of really quick would be a starter that is pulling too much power. But that is big $$. Does putting a jump on it make any diffeance? just to boost the power available?
Put some truck info in your signature so we know what we are looking at.
The guys around here are really helpfull. But they got to know what they are looking at.
Doug
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1990 F-350 Dually 4X4 CC Rebuilt Turbo and NEW 7.3L DAS engine, rebuilt rear diff, Reman E4OD Stage 1 injectors Stage 1 pump Baumann recal kit and TDC for E4OD dead trans again...
2004 F-350 4X4 CC 6.0 PSD
2004 Wilderness 320dbhs TT
Oh, and the brake thing, is the master cyl. resivour full?
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1990 F-350 Dually 4X4 CC Rebuilt Turbo and NEW 7.3L DAS engine, rebuilt rear diff, Reman E4OD Stage 1 injectors Stage 1 pump Baumann recal kit and TDC for E4OD dead trans again...
2004 F-350 4X4 CC 6.0 PSD
2004 Wilderness 320dbhs TT
Yep, the master cylinder is full, fuse ok. I'll check for a burned out bulb. Manual says low vacuum can turn the brake light on but what about the antilock light that came on at the same time? The brakes felt really odd driving home after work today. A pretty solid pedal but not much braking power, then a sudden application of brakes.
Starter is just a few months old. No obvious fuel leaks anywhere and the surging happens regardless of which tank or how full. Return line kit solved the 5-10 second start/run issue but not the stumbling/surging problem.
30K on brakes, what were the dimensions of the drums at that time. Were they turned, if so were they checked for oversized. If they are too large the brake shoes will grab. RABs info sent email.
__________________ http://photos.thedieselstop.com/show...0/ppuser/28329
93 F250 7.3 IDI S/C XLT 4X4 E40D 3.55LS, Captains chairs, Tutone Mocha, Leer 48" Hiboy cap, FR & RR hitches, full DeeZee running boards. Factory ordered/delivered Jan 93 has 160K+, it's basically a stock truck with all the Ford options, just no disc player.
Toys: 26'Jayco FK TT, 18'Sylvan Pro Fish.
I'll have to check the receipts but I think I got new drums at the time. Thanks for the RAB info, I'll take a look and see if I can trouble shoot it myself.
From my my prior research what I found out about the rear anti lock brakes is that the anti lock valve body depends on a resevoir that stores fluid so that when the anti locks pulse it uses the fluid in the resevior to do the pulsing. The problem is the valve that retains the fluid goes out and the whole system goes out. It costs about $175 to replace were I live.
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'90 F250 stock. ZF 5-speed, 4.10 gears, long box extra cab
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