Rear brake clarification - Diesel Forum

CaverDave · 04-27-2005, 01:58 PM

On my '92 10.25" FF, are the drum inboard of the hubs (axles & hub have to be removed to remove the drums) or are they outboard (simply remove the wheels to remove drums)?

Dave Haven · 04-27-2005, 02:26 PM

They're outboard.

CaverDave · 04-27-2005, 10:26 PM

Thanks Dave!

One more question... In trying to source new drums (was looking underneath during the diff service & noticed chunks missing & cracks in both [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif[/img] ) from the local vendors, all wanted to know if I had 2.5" or 3" brakes [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]

Any hard rule for that? I kinda figured they'd be 2.5" and the 3"ers were for the dually tired trucks?

dbennett48 · 04-27-2005, 10:45 PM

You are correct in that the 3" are for the duals and the 2.5" are single rear wheels.

Dave

CaverDave · 04-27-2005, 10:52 PM

Gracias! Guess I'll give them a yell in the AM and get them started rustling up a set....seems the 2.5" stuff isn't in stock [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img]

Outside of drums & shoes (possibly cylinders if they're "leaky") anything else that should go on the "gotta have" list before I call? I'm hoping the e-brake cables aren't frozen to the point they can't be freed since they look decent. Grabbed a can of graphite spray lube for them just in case....

pnose · 04-28-2005, 08:20 AM

Might as well get a hardware kit as well,it will have all the springs and stuff in it.

Dave Haven · 04-28-2005, 10:09 PM

My '89 has the 3" rear brakes. (Single rear wheel.)

farmerbrock · 04-29-2005, 12:12 PM

I have 3" on my '86, I think, and it's a single rear wheel.

Brock

Mr_Roboto · 04-29-2005, 12:21 PM

I'm betting the rear brake width is determined by GVWR, chance, and "what is available" when they are assembling the trucks. Which is why they ask you the width!

mont91 · 04-29-2005, 12:54 PM

My 88 1 ton and 91 heavy 3/4 both have 3" brakes on SRW. In fact they have the same rear end totaly.

CaverDave · 04-29-2005, 06:05 PM

Well, the verdict is in! Definitely have 3" on the rear... thinking that's a good thing... more friction area=better stopping.

I had them order in the 2.5" stuff, but they had tons of 3" in stock! Oh well, they'll swap it out I'm sure! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]

The real bad news is the hub seal (on the pass. side) had spewed a pint or 2 inside the old drum! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif[/img]
Hopefully out of the "Big4" (AutoZoo, AA, O'Reilly's, & NAPA... all side by side 2 miles away [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img] ), one of them will have 3 seals in stock. I'll probably change the drivers side regardless and love having a spare for bad juju...in case I have issues towing thru East Nosepick... late at night... when it's raining... and 33*F outside! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/phoney.gif[/img]

cdnsarguy · 04-29-2005, 06:17 PM

Read up on this web page.........re axles and seals

http://home.comcast.net/~dieselford/

CaverDave · 04-29-2005, 11:34 PM

Well, I managed to get the pass. side done and pulled down the drivers side... seal's FUBAR on that side too, but not as bad (slight wetting around the hub). It was just about this time I realized the truck was a bit too close to the wall on that side to allow the axle to clear the tube! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif[/img]

Threw the tire back on (minus the drum) with 4 lugnuts, cleaned up around the back, and will wait for daylight to jockey it around before getting started.

Pete, whats kinda funny about the link is he has a D70 & mine is a 10.25"... other than the position of the drums (mine are outboard), the entire thing is pretty much a clone brake wise.

Thanks again!

J Haggerty · 04-30-2005, 07:26 AM

My bad experience with rear brakes has been not paying attention to the two brake cables and return springs. Make sure the cables more thru their shields freely so that return properly. After the brake job is complete, make sure that the drums are not too hot. If the brake cable hangs up, it's posible for the drum to blue.

CaverDave · 04-30-2005, 09:52 PM

Having just been thru both sides, I'm a bit puzzled by *which* cables your talking about...
1) The Ebrake cables?
2) The "auto" adjuster cables?

I cycled the ebrake several times (unhooked on both sides)...retracted about 3/4" & extended when released (still think my ebrake release had a soda spilled in it! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img])

Got everything buttoned back up about 5PM...will have to wait to bleed them tomorrow when my "helper" isn't running a 102* fever (also the reason it took me ALL DAY [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img] ). The driver side wheel cylinder was toast...along with the short brake line on that side...one more trip to visit the gals at O'Reilly's [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/phoney.gif[/img]

Also managed to wrestle that monster Putnam ClassV up & down a few times...wasn't bad laying on the creeper & using my knees to hold it up. Just need to torque all the mounting bolts down & she good to go! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img]