how long will it take to drop my rear tank(filled with sludge i think) everytime i try to swith to it my fuel filter light comes on and it kills my engine. any info or suggestions on what i should do or hw long it will take?
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ive got a 1994 for f350 cc long bed witha 7.3l idi turbo diesel auto and 4x4 warn manual hubs its lifted on 38.5 thornbirds on procomp extreme alloys
Could be the FSV (fuel selector valve) is not completing the change and causing a no fuel/vacuum situation and the filter header sensor is reacting to it giving you a light.
Does the fuel guage switch to the new tank selected each time.
If the tank has any fuel in it weight will be the main problem.... took me about an hour to do mine with hand tools..... no air. If you raise/remove the bed you can do it in truck.
Have you tried removing the inlet line from that tank at the FSV to see if fuel will free flow.......
__________________ http://photos.thedieselstop.com/show...0/ppuser/28329
93 F250 7.3 IDI S/C XLT 4X4 E40D 3.55LS, Captains chairs, Tutone Mocha, Leer 48" Hiboy cap, FR & RR hitches, full DeeZee running boards. Factory ordered/delivered Jan 93 has 160K+, it's basically a stock truck with all the Ford options, just no disc player.
Toys: 26'Jayco FK TT, 18'Sylvan Pro Fish.
no i havent really messed with it that much i just run the front tank all the time and right now im just trying to get it running...the belt tensioner is jammed into the idler pulley and i cant get it off and the idler pulley is stuck and it aint goin nowhere... but i just replaced vavle cover gasgets and return lines and fuel filter sooo. im kinda strapped for money... and i had my ds rebuilt and the shop i had it done at put the wrong tip in and its an 1/8 too small so im pretty pissed about that... im gatting another truck to drive around this weekend so while i have my truck apart im gonna do as much to it as i can... any suggestions on anything else i should change while its in pieces in my garage? i know i need new glow plugs for sure but i just dont have the money... when i get this other truck my diesel will just become a play toy so in the future im gonna lift it more and get as much power out of it as i can.
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ive got a 1994 for f350 cc long bed witha 7.3l idi turbo diesel auto and 4x4 warn manual hubs its lifted on 38.5 thornbirds on procomp extreme alloys
Visit my photo link there is a pic of the way each bolt comes off......some are different thread direction due to travel of the belt.
__________________ http://photos.thedieselstop.com/show...0/ppuser/28329
93 F250 7.3 IDI S/C XLT 4X4 E40D 3.55LS, Captains chairs, Tutone Mocha, Leer 48" Hiboy cap, FR & RR hitches, full DeeZee running boards. Factory ordered/delivered Jan 93 has 160K+, it's basically a stock truck with all the Ford options, just no disc player.
Toys: 26'Jayco FK TT, 18'Sylvan Pro Fish.
i took a look at it and idk mine is different the center bolt is a 13mm socket and the housing its jammed down to where its pinched and the socket wont go in
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ive got a 1994 for f350 cc long bed witha 7.3l idi turbo diesel auto and 4x4 warn manual hubs its lifted on 38.5 thornbirds on procomp extreme alloys
I need to drop the rare tank on my 1994 F250 7.3 IDI for cleaning , fuel sending unit repalcement and drain plug bung installation . Any tips on this project are appreciated . - Thanks
Buy the fuel line disconnect tool. It will save you a big headache. Also ensure that you make good connections when you put everything back together. Several guys (me included) have had air issues that were related to bad connections.
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1994 F350 XL Crewcab 4x4 SRW 7.3 NA
Dana 60 Sterling 10.25 3.55 285/75 16 Dayton Timberlines
TC lockup Mod
Pyro Installed!!!
TO DO: Boost guage, Tekonsha Voyager Brake controller and Turbo when I acquire one!!!
to answer the fuel tank drop question... its not bad at all. there are two straps under the tank. there is a total of four nuts holding them up(those nuts are usually on prity good so make sure you have WD40). I used a transmission jack and some 4x4's and dropped the tank that way. you have to drop out one side(passenger side is easiest since it doesn't have the filler neck). Basically you drop it at an angle. Don't forget to release all the connections to the filler neck(I think there are three bolts by the filler cap and one hose clamp that is clamped to the bed) Other than that I think its just the fuel line and wiring.
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7.3 IDI F-350 4x4 1990
-Custom: '92 interior; Banks Y Pipe, Flowmaster muffler and Dual 4.25" Stacks
-Reman'd: Heavy Duty E4OD and Billet Converter; Transfer Case; Water pump; Power Steering pump; Denso Starter
-New: Brakes; Engine seals and oil pan; Oil pump; RUST-FREE Cab and Bed
-Pro Comp "Holley Red style" electric fuel pump
-3" Body Lift
-Fresh under coating on frame No more face full of rust under the truck!!
-16x10 Eagle Alloy 186 with 33's
-8ft snow plow
4.6l Mustang GT 1997
-Custom side exhaust (no mufflers, Ford Racing Exhaust tips
-Aftermarket stereo (Alpine headunit; JL Component Speakers; JL 300x2 Amp; JL 10" W7 Sub; JL 500x1 Amp)
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