Well if that's a picture of your actual head gasket, it looks like the cylinder next to it is rusty or something too. I'm not sure what you mean by the 6th try, but if your getting white smoke out of the CDR hole in the valley pan while cranking, I'm thinkin' warped head(s), or some serious damage to cylinder walls or pistons from hydrolock, maybe your getting water in through your air cleaner bolt? How do you know 3 cylinders? Was it 3 leaky valve seals, or valve seats? Your situation still seems cloudy, wouldn't clouds be nice!
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85 Ford 7.3l IDI F250 XLT Lariat 4x4 4.11gears, C6, alloy wheels, manual GPs.
85 Ford Bronco, NP435, NP 208, 3.55gears, Red w/white top, I6, maybe diesel someday.
Well if that's a picture of your actual head gasket, it looks like the cylinder next to it is rusty or something too. I'm not sure what you mean by the 6th try, but if your getting white smoke out of the CDR hole in the valley pan while cranking, I'm thinkin' warped head(s), or some serious damage to cylinder walls or pistons from hydrolock, maybe your getting water in through your air cleaner bolt? How do you know 3 cylinders? Was it 3 leaky valve seals, or valve seats? Your situation still seems cloudy, wouldn't clouds be nice!
Ok, the title to this thread is misleading. the engine blew a head gasket, (see previous pic) while the engine was apart, i had the heads rebuilt, since 3 valve SEALS WERE leaking. the valves were covered in oil, unlike all the other valves.
When I say try, I really mean # of sessions I have had working on my truck trying to fix until I run out of things to try to do, or drain the batteries.
water in through my air cleaner bolt??? I have the air cleaner off and the Crankcase vent as well, i stuff lots of rags into them when i'm not working on it, to keep crap and water out.
3 cylinder firing was a guess (as opposed to all 8 firing and the engine starting and running), as the best way to describe what I heard
my situation seems cloudy? My HEAD seems cloudy, not knowing what to do to breath the life back into my truck.
the point is My truck will crank long and hard, but will not start, and Im asking for your guys help...
feel free to ask questions about what i have done or about my situation.
Thanks
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My Truck: '88 Ford F-250 No Frills Standard Cab, ZF-5, 7.3L IDI Diesel, No turbo (Needs one!)150K miles (maybe its 250?) One Tire Frier open Diff., 2wd. Shes been used and abused and Im trying to give her the loving she needs.
A cold compression test will give best information as to piston ring/cylinder condition. If there was rust in the rings of a couple pistons they may be allowing compression to bypass........ Once you dermine if the compressions are good then moving up from there is easier...... Remember compression and fuel are what make it fire........
__________________ http://photos.thedieselstop.com/show...0/ppuser/28329
93 F250 7.3 IDI S/C XLT 4X4 E40D 3.55LS, Captains chairs, Tutone Mocha, Leer 48" Hiboy cap, FR & RR hitches, full DeeZee running boards. Factory ordered/delivered Jan 93 has 160K+, it's basically a stock truck with all the Ford options, just no disc player.
Toys: 26'Jayco FK TT, 18'Sylvan Pro Fish.
I hope you don't think I was being insulting, I understand how frustrating it can be. My head started to spin reading everything, so I was just looking for some clarification so as to help.
I am not experienced with using brakleen, but if it ignites all by itself and only three cylinders or so fired, then maybe only three have good compression, if it makes the diesel ignite, then maybe a fuel delivery problem.
When I bled the lines, I cracked the nut at all the injectors at once, and cranked in 5-10 second intervals with it floored, and letting the starter cool in between, I also bled by opening the **** on top of the filter.
By cloudy I meant confusing, by wouldn't clouds be nice, I said that because it was 100 degrees here at the moment, good luck!
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85 Ford 7.3l IDI F250 XLT Lariat 4x4 4.11gears, C6, alloy wheels, manual GPs.
85 Ford Bronco, NP435, NP 208, 3.55gears, Red w/white top, I6, maybe diesel someday.
First off the timing needs to be advanced at least to match up the lines. Then when you posted about bellding out the air did you have the injection upmp at wide open throttle position? Thats the only real way to purge out the air. At idle setting it makes so very little fuel to the injectors. Bleeding it and setting the timing static will make it fire up and run. P.S. I live in Whittier Ca. If you need me to drop by and help I will do that. Just send me an I.M. with an address and time. I'm free all the time. No worky here....
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89 7.3 crewcab w/ Banks Sidewinder Wastegated Turbo. 4 inch straight piped. BTS E4OD trans with 2 extra gallons of ATF in a Mag Hy-Tec pan. Gear Vendors. Rodney Red custom aluminum radiator. Moose Pump with "G' injectors. Motor rebuilt with new after market ported heads. Mahle low comp pistons milled 12 thousands. Balanced to 1/4 to 1/3 gram. Lined bored. Block decked and sleeved on all 8. Shimed oil pump for higher pressure. Intake and exhaust logs ported too. Hypermax in shop waiting to be installed later....
Last edited by icanfixall : 06-29-2008 at 02:38 PM.
Update:
Got the lines lined up on the Injector pump after the picture was taken.
Double checked on the bleeding of all the fuel lines, this time with WOT instead of 1/2 throttle I had been using.
I have not done a compression test yet, but will do if it will paint a more complete picture.
Still cranks hard and fast... just no fire in the hole...
Icanfixall, I might have to take you up on that offer... Still no life brought back to my truck....
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My Truck: '88 Ford F-250 No Frills Standard Cab, ZF-5, 7.3L IDI Diesel, No turbo (Needs one!)150K miles (maybe its 250?) One Tire Frier open Diff., 2wd. Shes been used and abused and Im trying to give her the loving she needs.
Ok.. I'm ready most anytime to help. You make the dates and times and I'll put it to work. Your probably just ready to start but we can recheck everything easily.
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89 7.3 crewcab w/ Banks Sidewinder Wastegated Turbo. 4 inch straight piped. BTS E4OD trans with 2 extra gallons of ATF in a Mag Hy-Tec pan. Gear Vendors. Rodney Red custom aluminum radiator. Moose Pump with "G' injectors. Motor rebuilt with new after market ported heads. Mahle low comp pistons milled 12 thousands. Balanced to 1/4 to 1/3 gram. Lined bored. Block decked and sleeved on all 8. Shimed oil pump for higher pressure. Intake and exhaust logs ported too. Hypermax in shop waiting to be installed later....
Ok.. I'm ready most anytime to help. You make the dates and times and I'll put it to work. Your probably just ready to start but we can recheck everything easily.
Alrighty.
I guess I will be doing a compression check, because that is the only thing I have not done.
that and i will be going over and checking everything again, to make sure its all there and working...
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My Truck: '88 Ford F-250 No Frills Standard Cab, ZF-5, 7.3L IDI Diesel, No turbo (Needs one!)150K miles (maybe its 250?) One Tire Frier open Diff., 2wd. Shes been used and abused and Im trying to give her the loving she needs.
has the oil pressure built up yet? when i did my gaskets, the fuel and oil system was drained and took endless cranks to fire up and to rebuild pressure.
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Jarrod
NRA member
1997 F350 4door 2wd long bed white 7.3L Powerstroke, E4OD, C5 4:10LS diff 326K miles on org engine
has the oil pressure built up yet? when i did my gaskets, the fuel and oil system was drained and took endless cranks to fire up and to rebuild pressure.
I dont know, but would have to guess yes?
I have cranked it for, i dont know, 20 times, at 15 seconds each.
PM sent to icanfixall
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My Truck: '88 Ford F-250 No Frills Standard Cab, ZF-5, 7.3L IDI Diesel, No turbo (Needs one!)150K miles (maybe its 250?) One Tire Frier open Diff., 2wd. Shes been used and abused and Im trying to give her the loving she needs.
Thanks for the Email. I can help on Monday anytime. I'll bet right about now your getting plenty-orain. I've been watching the storm move that direction. How fast is the motor turning over when you try to start it? The batteries need to be fully chraged so it spins fast. The faster it spins the faster it compresses the air charge and the more heat builds in the cylinders to lite off the diesel. It still may be just a timing issue or air trapped in the system. We will find it... Email me about times...
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89 7.3 crewcab w/ Banks Sidewinder Wastegated Turbo. 4 inch straight piped. BTS E4OD trans with 2 extra gallons of ATF in a Mag Hy-Tec pan. Gear Vendors. Rodney Red custom aluminum radiator. Moose Pump with "G' injectors. Motor rebuilt with new after market ported heads. Mahle low comp pistons milled 12 thousands. Balanced to 1/4 to 1/3 gram. Lined bored. Block decked and sleeved on all 8. Shimed oil pump for higher pressure. Intake and exhaust logs ported too. Hypermax in shop waiting to be installed later....
The engine cranks hard and fast, fast enough that I cannot count the revolutions.
I usually charge it at 10 amp, and them 2 amp over night to get a full charge.
I look forward to getting this problem solved
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My Truck: '88 Ford F-250 No Frills Standard Cab, ZF-5, 7.3L IDI Diesel, No turbo (Needs one!)150K miles (maybe its 250?) One Tire Frier open Diff., 2wd. Shes been used and abused and Im trying to give her the loving she needs.
That was an issue on my rebuilt heads. The first machine shop that "rebuilt" my heads completely took a dump on the valve grind. They ground different angles on the valves than the angles on the seats and some were even off center. Freak'n guys missed a huge crack on the driver's side head and it poured coolant out the #8 exhaust port when simply filling the block for a test start!
Anyway, I did a compression check and none of the cyclinders had near enough compression to light off. Why?...........The horrible valve angles where leaking!
Do the compression test and let us know what's up. Also, an electric fuel pump will do all the bleeding for you without having to crank and crank and crank, killing batteries and starter.
Heath
__________________ 1986 F250HD 4x4 7.3L IDI '95 PSD front clip, '97 bed, T19, D60/10.25 with 3.55's. Rebuilt from the frame up. Banks Turbo, DPS IP & Stage 1's, Isspro TTM, Banks Exhaust, Boost gauge, Pyrometer, Precharged Coolant Filter, Holley Red Pump. 16.5 x 37 x 12.5 Goodyear Wrangler's, Air Horns. 6in lift, Fresh Paint, On-board Air. Revamped Interior. Rhino Liner.
I bought the US General compression test kit for Diesels from Harbor freight when I started having problems (found blown head gasket)
The kit is a POS, i had to modify the adapter for the glow plug compression fitting, because it was about 1/4" too long.
So i cut it down and re-threaded it and put the valve stem back in and,the valve kept sticking open.
Drilled out the adapter from the other end and tried again.
worked for 2 cylinders then started getting stuck open again.
SO, all I can tell you is that cylinders # 2 and 6 were around 410 PSI. and cylinders # 8, 1 and 3 pushed about 200 PSI on the first rotation.
I gave up after that.
anyone in SoCal have 1 I can borrow/loan/rent???
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My Truck: '88 Ford F-250 No Frills Standard Cab, ZF-5, 7.3L IDI Diesel, No turbo (Needs one!)150K miles (maybe its 250?) One Tire Frier open Diff., 2wd. Shes been used and abused and Im trying to give her the loving she needs.
1997 F350 4door 2wd long bed white 7.3L Powerstroke, E4OD, C5 4:10LS diff 326K miles on org engine
Freak'n guys missed a huge crack on the driver's side head and it poured coolant out the #8 exhaust port when simply filling the block for a test start!