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Release bearing issue?

2K views 17 replies 7 participants last post by  Remote95 
#1 ·
1989 f 350 4x4 manuel tranny. Truck infrequently used and has developed problem in that clutch pedal has to be depressed to a certain sweet spot while holding key down to spin motor. Recently been harder to get starter to spin motor while depressing clutch. Finally now cannot get starter to spin motor.. Clicking sound is heard when sweet spot is found with clutch pedal. my guess is that is the solenoid engageing. My opinion is that the release bearing is now siezed on the shaft and is not allowing starter to spin. Another clue may be the fact that the clutch pedal sometimes stays depressed and you have to go under it and pull it up with your foot.? Is my guess right and is it possible to spray lubricant on the release bearing without having to pull tranny? If my guess is not right then what could be my issue? Sorry for long post and all help appreciated.
 
#2 ·
Click this, read the caption, follow the relevant links, and figure out which transmission it has. Then put all the details into a signature here.



No, your guess is not likely correct. It sounds more like there are at least 2 problems interacting to produce these symptoms. Check for:
- wear in the clutch pedal cross-shaft bearings in the steering column brace;
- wear in the clutch MC pushrod & lever above the accelerator pedal;
- wear &/or corrosion in the clutch switch around the MC pushrod;
- damage to the LB/R wire between the clutch switch & starter relay on the inner fender;
- corrosion in the starter relay
- corrosion in the starter solenoid on the starter
- poor connections on any of the heavy battery cable terminals

. . . . . .
 
#3 · (Edited)
You didn't say, but being an '89 you should have the 5 speed trans. The way you're describing your cranking problem sounds like it's just the safety switch mis-adjusted or loose that only allows the starter to engage when the clutch is depressed. The throwout bearing collar binding on the input shaft brg. retainer, although a common problem with the ZF 5 spds, would have nothing to do with the starter problem. There's a way to lube the collar and retainer sleeve, but that's another issue.
 
#6 ·
As mentioned above, the starter solenoid is likely part of ypur troubles. I do't think that is all of it though. you need to look at the pedal mounting bracket as well. It sounds like the bushings are worn out.
 
#7 ·
UPDATE ? Cranked the truck up yesterday by pulling it with another, Fired right up! Then I shut it off with ignition key and restarted it with key, again by holding key in crank position and moving clutch pedal up and down to find that spot that it enguages the starter. Once you get clutch pedal in that small area the starter would spin the motor as it should with no sluggishness or hesitation. (very fast). Shut it off and restarted it several times and again later in the day. The starter spins fast and the motor fires right off. What would change its cranking by simply pulling the truck off?
 
#9 ·
What would change its cranking by simply pulling the truck off?
The list of possibilities includes some of the things I already listed. When are you going to fill out your signature with the truck's details?
 
#10 ·
#11 ·
There are 4 switches in the start ckt for 1988
1. Key switch on top of the steering column, which get out of adjustment due to wear.

2. The Lawyer switch(safety switch) on the clutch pedal assembly, this get out of adj due to wear also. You can jump around this if your brave(new for 1987)

3. The solenoid on the passenger side fender well. The pushon connector wire comes from the key. the black lead on the front large lug goes to the solenoid on the starter motor
(the one on the fender is the one that makes the small clicking noise).

4. The big solenoid on the starter motor. This one makes a big noise. It engages the drive gear and supply's voltage to the starter field and brushs.
(this tends to fall apart with age and get real flaky, like works once and not the next)
 
#12 ·
As I recall there is an aluminum bracket for the pedal assembly that the pedal shaft runs through. The bushigs supporting that shaft are poor at best. The shaft will eventually eat into the bracket, and cock in the bores, and then you experience exactly what you described. Over time it gets so that you can't disengag the clutch at all. I know, because it happened to me several years ago on a 1989 to the point that it finally broke.
 
#13 ·
Maybe it depends on the year. So many here were blabbering about the problem of bushings wearing I tore mine down after I owned it about 12+ years. The nylon (plastic) bushings were just like new and I do a LOT of downshifting through the years when towing.
 
#15 ·
Does yours have the stamped steel bracket, or is it still aliminum? My '93 has the stamped steel bracket, and much heavier bushings for the cross shaft.
 
#14 ·
The pedal box design changed over the three generations, but the general operation remains the same. It's a nylon wear item; no two vehicles are going to wear the same. You can usually detect a problem there just by the pedal feel. Or just observe the movement of the shaft going through the box while operating the pedal with your hand.
 
#17 ·
'80-91 pedal brackets are cast Aluminum, which usually crack before wearing through. '92-97 are stamped steel. Early steel ones used thin bosses for the nylon bushings, which cut through the bushings, and allowed pedal slop. Later steel ones (for stickshift) were revised with thicker bosses to better-support the bushings & pedal shaft.

 
#18 ·
Today had to hook chain to truck and rock it or pull it slightly to get it to turn over. Once pulling forward with tranny in Low !st, the other time pulling from the rear in nuetral to get it to spin and start. Also have an infrequent clank in the drivetrain after upshifting or downshifting. Its not a universal! I would like to thank all for help so far and sorry about the slow posting.
 
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