Replacing the starter

[jslash]

Hi Folks,

My starter seems to be failing... Symptoms are: Cranks very
slowly. Sometimes not fast enough to start the truck. Cranks faster
the longer I let it crank. A friend said that was exactly the way
his failed. BTW... both batteries are brand new.

My question is this: How hard is it to remove the starter. I've
heard that there is one bolt that is near impossible to reach? Anyone
have correct instructions for replacement?

Also I noticed that the cable from the solenoid switch on the
firewall connects to the starter with two nuts then seems to continue
on somewhere else. Where else would it be going? It also seems very
corroded. Might cleaning the contacts at the starter fix the problem?

Anyone else have this particular problem?

As always any help is greatly appreciated.

Jim

[fordtrucks]

It took me about 30 min to take the starter of my 7.3 idi and 20 mins of that was looking for the third bolt it is on the very top you can see it if you look through a hole in the frame i used a 5 in extention and a 1/2 in socket. the trick for me was getting it out not unbolting it

[icanfixall]

The cables to each battery and then down to the starter must be clean. These motors require lots of amps to spin the starter. If you are going to remove it the top bolt is the most difficult one to reach. Its a 1/2 inch hex. What must be done before you get into it is remove the positive side of EACH battery first. The 1600 to 2000 amps will burn a wrench to your hands or a ring to your finger. Some have even gotten burned because their watch band contacted the cables. You don't want that. Now to reach the top bolt look at the replacement starter and set up a socket and extension that is about 1 inch longer than the starter. When installing this top bolt I found it best to tape the bolt to the socket. the socket to the extension and the extension to the wratchet. When the bolt is ticht just pull the tool out. Test this idea before because its realy hard to find the socket if it uplls off the extension. Reach up and start feeling around for the top bolt. Look at the replacement starter for its location reliative to the solenoid. Remove that bolt first then remove to other 2. Now drop down the starter. It will need to be positioned just right to come out. When its out remove the cable and small wire to the solenoid and thats about it. Make sure you buy the Mitsubishi gear reduction type starter. They are the better type and will really spin the motor. Other may chime in because I missed something so check back.

[Mr_Roboto]

It isn't so hard, once you know that third bolt is there.... I started to put a prybar to mine, then better sense prevailed and I looked harder...... (Better sense does not always prevail!!).

You have 2 wires going to the starter. The first is the main cable, which is very thick and runs from the batteries to the starter. This cable carries all the current.

The second wire runs from the fender mounted solenoid down to the starter. This wire is smaller and only carries a few amps, this is the wire that makes the main starter solenoid close.

The little wire being corroded won't make the starter turn slow. The big wire being corroded could.

[merdock69]

Mine did exactly what you are describing. I replaced it, my batteries, and my cables, now the thing spins like crazy and starts in 5 seconds or less cold.

Make sure you go to a reputable starter rebuild shop or order a brand new one. Don't buy the crappy autozone duracrap ones. I took my new burned up starter (less than 6 months old) into a recommended rebuild shop; there they showed me how many incorrect parts were installed in the rebuilt unit and contributed to its failure, additionally he said it was poorly assembled. He offered to rebuild it, but it would start at $155 because the windings were melted. He pulled out a circular he had from his supplier who was running a special on BRAND NEW gear reduction starts for $190 wholesale, so he gave me one at cost. If you're going to replace your starter you should go ahead and replace your battery cable, this is the one I used.
http://www.batteriesareus.com/index....roducts_id=351 It's $69 versus the $200 Napa and ford want for theirs. Remember NEVER crank for more than 20 to 30 seconds without 2 minute breaks in between to let the starter cool or you'll burn up even the best brand new starter.

[Powerstrokedogg]

my starter did the same thing when it started going to crap, i just replaced one today on a 93 F250 with the same symptom

what happen is only 2 or 3 brushes are still making contact with the comuntator. if you pull the back cover off the starter you will see the poor design, when the brushes wear they will eventually bottom out on the brush holder, even though theres 1/4" of brush left you can't use it, the brushes are welded in so you really can't replace them

[OkieGringo]

order this starter from Autozone...Duralast-offset gear reduction Mitsubishi, part # 16561 , core charge = $120.00 USD( so take old one with you), Limited Lifetime Waranty. Even if your old starter is a different brand (mine was an AC Delco ) get the Mitsubushi- Autozone doesn't care. From what these guys told me about replacing this starter ...I expected it to be very difficult, it wasn't, 15 minutes out, one hour to Autozone and back, 15 minutes back in. It takes longer just to get the tools rounded up. While you're doing this starter R&R you might also want to stick a STUD (longer bolt with head cut off will do) in the top bolt hole so you can hang the starter up there while you're messin' with the bottom bolts. Use tape to hold the top nut in the socket and to hold the socket onto the extension. P.S. My Autozone starter has been in there for 4 yrs now and still spins the engine as fast as it did on day one. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif[/img]OkieGringo

[jslash]

[ QUOTE ]
order this starter from Autozone...Duralast-offset gear reduction Mitsubishi, part # 16561 , core charge = $120.00 USD( so take old one with you), Limited Lifetime Waranty. Even if your old starter is a different brand (mine was an AC Delco ) get the Mitsubushi- Autozone doesn't care.

[/ QUOTE ]

OkieGringo,

Thanks for the tip... However, it appears that the part number for
my truck is a little different. Possibly because it's a newer style.
Here's what the website shows for my truck. It says Duralast but
no reference to Mitsubishi... Still the same unit?

Starter for a
1994 FORD TRUCK F350 1 TON P/U 4WD

_____Item___________Part No.___Warranty__Core Value__Unit Price
DURALAST_IMPORT____17250_______LLT_____$180.00____ _$195.56

Thanks again!

Jim

[Zrob]

As stated, for the top bolt, make sure you have 3/8" extentions just long enough to clear the end of the starter. A 4"&6" if I remember right. You can loosen the bolt with your wratchet. THEN put another 12-14" extention on the ones you allready have. It'll clear the motor mount and you'll be able to turn the bolt out with an air wratchet, or by hand.

I just took a Mitsu starter to a local rebuild guy. He rebuilt my starter motor for $30. He pulled an old armature out of the scrap heap, turned the contacts down on the lathe, swapped my bearings onto it, installed new brushes and holder. All in about 15-20 mins.

And by all means, follow the advice to remove BOTH battery + terminals

[OkieGringo]

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
order this starter from Autozone...Duralast-offset gear reduction Mitsubishi, part # 16561 , core charge = $120.00 USD( so take old one with you), Limited Lifetime Waranty. Even if your old starter is a different brand (mine was an AC Delco ) get the Mitsubushi- Autozone doesn't care.

[/ QUOTE ]

OkieGringo,

Thanks for the tip... However, it appears that the part number for
my truck is a little different. Possibly because it's a newer style.
Here's what the website shows for my truck. It says Duralast but
no reference to Mitsubishi... Still the same unit?

Starter for a
1994 FORD TRUCK F350 1 TON P/U 4WD

_____Item___________Part No.___Warranty__Core Value__Unit Price
DURALAST_IMPORT____17250_______LLT_____$180.00____ _$195.56

Thanks again!

Jim

[/ QUOTE ]

In '94, there were 3 engines available. N/A IDI, Turboed IDI and PowerChoke. Maybe you got the Powerchoke part # there. A Mitsu starter will have "MITSU" embossed on it somewhere.

[Dalvaras]

It has been mentioned once or twice that if you go to autozone or advance asking for parts for a 94 the only listing they have is the powerstroke best to tell them it is a 93 parts will be the same as 94 idi

[jslash]

[ QUOTE ]
In '94, there were 3 engines available. N/A IDI, Turboed IDI and PowerChoke. Maybe you got the Powerchoke part # there. A Mitsu starter will have "MITSU" embossed on it somewhere.

[/ QUOTE ]

Good catch... Yup, 1993 calls for the # you mentioned. Also $50
less! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

Thanks!

Right now I'm looking for someone with a warm garage to get into for
a bit. It's dropping to sub-zero nights and single digit days...
I'm not going to be crawling around under there in this weather [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img]

Jim