So I searched all over the forum and everything I read was a bad plug on the headlight switch. I went and bought a new headlight switch and plug. Came home and installed it and no luck.
If I pull the headlight switch out 1 click I get nothing. If I pull it out 2 clicks the headlights come on. If I push the headlight switch in half way between headlights on and the dash lights on I can get the running lights to come on and the dash lights but still no headlights.
Can someone help me out?
Jason
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1990 F350,Crew Cab, 5 Speed, 200K on the truck, 100K on the motor.
If they're coming on when you pull the knob a little past the running lights detent, you have a bad switch. I've never had really good luck with parts store electrical components like headlight switches, voltage regulators, etc; Ford seems to make better stuff but you pay for it.
1990 Jeep Wrangler Sahara, 4.2l, 5-speed, Dana 30/35 w/3.07s (for now!), 33x10.5x15 BFG Mud-Terrain KM2s on 4" Rough Country springs. Engine being rebuilt after an awesome afternoon in the mud LOL
But first take the switch out, soak it in 99.95% min pure isopropylen alcohole and then give it a few turns and toss it back in a glass full, do that till it comes out clean. then run it through the possitions you should feel a nice clean snap as the contacts open and close.
I don't know if the rehostats in them where carbon film or standerd nicrom wrapped if nicrom odds are that will make it happy again for at least a couple more years. The carbon film ones are pretty pitiful little units imo.
__________________ New truck: 1988 F-350 1 ton dualy 2*4, 7.3L IDI Naturally Aspirated, Dual tanks with Camper package. Mods: Enhanced gauge cluster; Transmission temp, rear diff temp, coolant system pressure, Vacuum pressure, Fuel pressure, Crappy tire Air horn Kit, Raycor pre filter/water sep. All LED Dash lighting, thinking of adding an electric blower for mild boost.
Generator sets: Honda 3.5Kw (Fixed and running!) Onan 3.5Kw Electric/Remote electric Start. Remote start pannel made and hooked up, I love it!
I tested the switch with the wiring diagram I got from cdnsarguy pictures. The switch looked great. I checked the fuse under the dash and it tested good. I can soak it in IPA and give it a try and see what happens.
Any other ideas. I am in need of getting my truck back on the road.
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1990 F350,Crew Cab, 5 Speed, 200K on the truck, 100K on the motor.
How does the switch pigtail look? is it melted, or smell burnt? I wonder if you have a short to open, or perhaps a loose terminal inside the pigtail? There are fuse links all through out our trucks, and the only way to test them is with a continuity tester. But then again, you said you can get one or the other to come on, but not both at the same time. Maybe its a ground issue?
I'd feel confindent buying a Borg-Warner switch. They have a lifetime warranty.
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89 F350 SRW Reg Cab 4X4, 3.55:1, ZF-5 w/ LUK single mass, added Banks sidewinder 12-06. So far so good. 17 mpg using B50 bio blend.
94 F350 SRW CC E4OD and factory turbo- currently under construction
At the time of putting the new switch in I did replace the pig tail.
I was wondering the same thing on the fusable lins. If I can get my running lights and dash lights to come on with moving the switch half way between the headlights and running lights can I have a bad fusable link?
Again I tested the switch with a ohm meter and it tested out good.
Jason
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1990 F350,Crew Cab, 5 Speed, 200K on the truck, 100K on the motor.
If a fusible link was blown the lights wouldn't come on at all. I'm pretty sure the lights aren't on a fusible link, but rather are connected directly to the battery with a circuit breaker in the switch. If the running lights aren't coming on with the knob pulled out to the first detent then the contacts just aren't lined up inside.
1990 Jeep Wrangler Sahara, 4.2l, 5-speed, Dana 30/35 w/3.07s (for now!), 33x10.5x15 BFG Mud-Terrain KM2s on 4" Rough Country springs. Engine being rebuilt after an awesome afternoon in the mud LOL
I did check the fuse under the dash. It is in good shape.
Honestley I do not know what the running and dash lights comming on in between the 2 positions mean. I am at a loss. I hate electrical problems SO much. It just sucks.
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1990 F350,Crew Cab, 5 Speed, 200K on the truck, 100K on the motor.
Honestley I do not know what the running and dash lights comming on in between the 2 positions mean. I am at a loss. I hate electrical problems SO much. It just sucks.
1990 Jeep Wrangler Sahara, 4.2l, 5-speed, Dana 30/35 w/3.07s (for now!), 33x10.5x15 BFG Mud-Terrain KM2s on 4" Rough Country springs. Engine being rebuilt after an awesome afternoon in the mud LOL
Its hard to admit when your wrong but here we go. I was wrong.
So I pu the new switch in, the new pigtail in and still no luck. When through the fuse and THOUGHT it was good.
Pulled the switch out today and replaced it with anouther brand. Still no good. Got the wiring diagrahm back out again. I figured out that the Tan/white wire was to be battery powered.
Traced it back down to the fuse block. Well here is where I figured it out. I pulled and checked fuse number 1 instead of 4. #4 was burnt up. I felt like a complete idiot.
Thanks for everyones help. You kept me in the truck looking at everything.
Jason
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1990 F350,Crew Cab, 5 Speed, 200K on the truck, 100K on the motor.
So it sounds like when you pulled the knob a little past the running lights detent, the moving contacts were touching both the headlights and running lights contacts and sending headlight power to the running lights. Interesting. I've never seen that before, but I've never tried it either. Most of the headlight switch problems I've seen involved the dome light not coming on at the detent.
1990 Jeep Wrangler Sahara, 4.2l, 5-speed, Dana 30/35 w/3.07s (for now!), 33x10.5x15 BFG Mud-Terrain KM2s on 4" Rough Country springs. Engine being rebuilt after an awesome afternoon in the mud LOL
I have a similar problem. My 88 F250 developed this one recently. my dash lights don't come on at all anymore my headlights and running lights work fine and my radio clicks really loud and resets when i turn the ignition on. i've replaced switches and fuses and cannot figure this one out. any ideas? my best guess is a short in the headlight circuit but i can't find it.
So it sounds like when you pulled the knob a little past the running lights detent, the moving contacts were touching both the headlights and running lights contacts and sending headlight power to the running lights. Interesting. I've never seen that before, but I've never tried it either.
I have a similar problem. My 88 F250 developed this one recently. my dash lights don't come on at all anymore my headlights and running lights work fine and my radio clicks really loud and resets when i turn the ignition on. i've replaced switches and fuses and cannot figure this one out. any ideas? my best guess is a short in the headlight circuit but i can't find it.
Sounds like a different problem. Dash lights are energized by the parking light fuse. If they're off but the parking lights are on, the next item in the circuit is the dimmer in the headlight switch. Do you get no dash illumination at all, when you rotate the knob?
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(for now!), 33x10.5x15 BFG Mud-Terrain KM2s on 4" Rough Country springs. Engine being rebuilt after an awesome afternoon in the mud LOL
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