I have a 1990 7.3 diesel F250 with a 5 speed manual transmission. I was wondering if I want to put in an aftermarket oil pressure gauge do I need to change out the oil pressure sending unit in my truck or can I use the same sending unit and just connect the wires to the new gauge and still get an accurate oil pressure instead of just having a fancy idiot gauge like on the OEM dash. Only asking because from the pictures in the Chilton manual I have the damn sending unit is up on top of the backside of the engine near where the transmission is bolted on and the only way it seems to change it out would be to drop the transmission in order to be able to reach it.
If anyone could let me know anything about this that'd be cool.
Your Banks kit should have relocated the oil pressure sending unit away from the turbo. I have the older version and they mounted a bracket that Tee'd off for the sender and the turbo oil feed, it bolted to the intake manifold above the rear driver's side injector. It might not be in the same place on the sidewinder, but there should be a braided stainless oil line coming up from the oil filter header to the turbo. Somewhere along that line should be the sending unit.
I think you will have to use the sending unit included with your gauge, different gauge makers use a different resistance range in their gauges.
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1986 F250 2WD Super Cab XLT Lariat w/ 1996 front clip. Dually bed & van rearend (2" wider, allows inside dual to clear springs). 6.9 w/ approx 112,000mi (maybe 212k?). PO mods: Banks non-wastegated turbo system, Rebuilt IP (unknown how many miles). My mods: re-fabricated the Y-pipe, new glowplugs (Beru ZD1A), new Delphi BB injectors, new return lines, Kenworth pyrometer, vac/boost gauge, electric water temp/oil psi/voltmeter mounted in stock locations inside dash. 3" Mandrel-bent open exhaust. Compression checked @ 400-450 psi. C6 trans (disassembled/cleaned valve body), 3.54 gears. New brakes & brake lines all around. Okiegringo idler pulley. Flushed/recharged/converted A/C to R134a.
Thanks for the tip...only problem is I don't have a banks turbo installed...in my signature it's planned as a future upgrade and at this point I think if I get around to doing a turbo it's going to be an ATS one. Thanks anyways.
If you're naturally aspirated, all you have to do is take the air filter housing off and it's right there.
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1986 F250 2WD Super Cab XLT Lariat w/ 1996 front clip. Dually bed & van rearend (2" wider, allows inside dual to clear springs). 6.9 w/ approx 112,000mi (maybe 212k?). PO mods: Banks non-wastegated turbo system, Rebuilt IP (unknown how many miles). My mods: re-fabricated the Y-pipe, new glowplugs (Beru ZD1A), new Delphi BB injectors, new return lines, Kenworth pyrometer, vac/boost gauge, electric water temp/oil psi/voltmeter mounted in stock locations inside dash. 3" Mandrel-bent open exhaust. Compression checked @ 400-450 psi. C6 trans (disassembled/cleaned valve body), 3.54 gears. New brakes & brake lines all around. Okiegringo idler pulley. Flushed/recharged/converted A/C to R134a.
I was wondering if I want to put in an aftermarket oil pressure gauge do I need to change out the oil pressure sending unit in my truck or can I use the same sending unit and just connect the wires to the new gauge and still get an accurate oil pressure instead of just having a fancy idiot gauge like on the OEM dash.
Thanks
George
I would try to keep the orginal hooked up. Is your gauge going to be electricl or mechanical?Their are other ports available on the engine to hook them up .The light is basically a switch (on below 7 lbs.or so)---Rob
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1990 F250 7.3 Liter IDI - future upgrades remanufactured engine, 6 speed manual transmission, gear vendor overdrive kit, banks sidewinder turbo, paint job, and aftermarket bumpers
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