ZF-5? That's a synchronized transmission, no need for double-clutching. I do double-clutch the new diesel Dodge 3500s with the 6-spd NV5600, and I also float them as well, but that's just cause not many of the folks at work can do it, and I'm a show-off, and they are test vehicles anyways so they live very short then get destroyed even if there ain't nothing really wrong with them - in other words, I try to justify the inevitable untimely death of these nice tucks Whether double-clutching is actually bad for a synchronized transmission, that I dunno, but I'd sure would like to learn about...
__________________ The more I drink, the more I drink, the more I drink...
'90 F350 XLT Lariat regular cab long bed, dually, 4.10s, factory tow package w/ P3 controller, single 2.5" stack, wood stakes & rails
It will add a little extra wear to the thrust bearing and the clutch mechanism. But we're probably talking wearing out in 125K miles instead of 130K miles.
If you have problems with the synchros or just like double clutching then clutch away.
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1985 International rollback, 6.9L 5 speed "Li'l Big Truck"
I don't think the input shaft is large enough/heavy enough to require double clutching. I sometimes do the 2-3, and the 3-4 shift without the clutch, but never double clutch it.
12injectors so far
1 FICM
8 glow plugs
1 glow plug control module
1 HPOP
2 EGR valves, plus(cleaned 6 times)
EGR cooler
buzz flash replaced with
heat flash(seems to work quite well)
2 Batteries
8 Tires
Rear brake pads,,,At 105,000 miles.
Enough Rotella to float a boat!
New flywheel/clutch assy(possibly not needed)
Death wobble-FIXED!!ihope
2006 F350 CC LWB Dually XLT Oxford white manual 4x4 6.0 PSD 6 speed. 4.10 LS front and rear,captains chairs, polished forged wheels, sunroof, tow mirrors, tow command brake controller, skid plates. Built May05. 4" turbo back w/modded OEM CAT,turboflow muffler, 100gal aux fuel tank, low profile black toolbox,5th wheel/gooseneck hitch, LineX(hate it), GlowShift fuel pressure gauge and fuel crossover tube. A real pig from a stop, but give me 10' and she'll lite'em up. 88K troublesome miles. Running fairly well for the last 20,000( Let us pray.....).
Yeah I don't get why people always love to double clutch, or think it's so much better for the truck. 99.9% of light vehicles on the road today that are manual have synchronized gears (other than 1st of course) so there is no point. You're just wearing out parts faster. It's the same situation as people downshifting to help slow them down to save the brakes...so instead they put additional wear on the clutch. Which one do you think is cheaper/easier to change?
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1994 Ford F250 4x4: 7.3L IDI factory turbo, supercab longbed, E4OD *DEAD*. ZF5 swap,Dana 60 swap, GM 14 bolt rear w/ 4.10s, 4" exhaust from stock downpipe back to a 5" stack, IP maxed=1100 degrees max pulling uphill, "modified" wastegate=11psi max,99+ F450SD cab/chassis leaf springs in rear
2000 VW Jetta TDI = 48+mpg
1997 Dodge 3500: 2WD Cab & Chassis, 12V Cummins, 47RE Automatic. 194,000 but doesn't run (yet).
1989 12V VE Cummins out of Chevy C60? waiting to be swapped into my 1994...Piston tops ceramic coated, skirts dry-lube coated; block is at the machine shop: mains being align-honed, rotating assembly being balanced. 4,000+RPM here I come!
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Whether double-clutching is actually bad for a synchronized transmission, that I dunno, but I'd sure would like to learn about...
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