smoke problem.. ideas? - Diesel Forum

KevinIH73IDI · 01-25-2007, 11:14 PM

so here's the story:
when it was warmer out (September maybe) the truck had a lot of throuble starting when cold.. i replaced all the glowplugs with beru and it's been great. but now when it's cold out and i cant plug it in at school i can fill up half the parking lot with smoke.
the high idle doesn't work, and i printed out a partial wiring diagram that goes: glow plug controller --> fuel shutoff --> engine temp switch --> cold idle solenoid --> cold timing advance.
i've been checking out some of the other posts on here and was finally able to get an email adress that worked, so im open to any help you guys have
thanks a lot, kevin

----------
93 IDI 7.3
i'll make one of these later

OkieGringo · 01-26-2007, 12:32 AM

Note that the wire from the loom DOES NOT go to the GP Controllerin this area. The GP controller gets it's juice from the Battery side of the starter solenoid on the pax fender wall.
To check the connections to the IP, here's what you need to do. Turn on key to 'run' position. Check the main wire that comes from the loom to the IP (injection pump), does it have juice. The wire runs to the FSS (fuel shutoff switch) connector first, <font color="red">then to one side of the Cold Engine Switch(two-prong sensor, located in hole behind the upper radiator hose connection).</font> When the engine is cold 'juice' will pass thru the sensor, if the sensor is good, and go to either the FIS (fast idle solenoid) or the CTA (cold timing advance), then to the other. If the engine is cold and sensor is good it will be 'closed' and allow 'juice' to get to the FIS plunger which holds the idle speed up. If FIS plunger is working, but not pushing up far enough, use a 1/4" wrench to turn/extend it until the idle speed is ~1000 rpm. The CTA (cold timing advance) near the spider/distribution end of the IP 'advances the timing' to make engine run smoother/run cleaner/less smoke. The Cold Engine Switch opens/shuts off the electricity to the FIS and CTA after engine reaches 112 degrees, and engine speed/rpm will/should drop to ~650 rpm. If these three items are working correctly, when you go to start engine, hold the throttle pedal at least 1/2 way to floor to allow the FIS plunger to 'set' itself. Use a test light to check for electricity/juice at each of the solenoids, FSS, FIS and CTA. Let me know if this helps. Good luck, OkieGringo

Mr_Roboto · 01-26-2007, 10:57 AM

Okie, there are two positives to the GP relay. The big one comes from the battery, the little one is in the same circuit as the FSS etc.

KevinIH73IDI · 01-26-2007, 09:35 PM

ok thanks gringo, I'll try that tomorrow
but first, what's a "loom" lol its the only thing i haven't figured out..
but today when i was leaving school i started my truck, it was a little rough but then it stalled after a minute or so. it cranked over no problem but wouldn't start up so then my friend comes over and says I've been leaking fuel. the fuel filter fell off. i don't know if i just haven't checked it in a while and it rattled loose or if pressure can build up when i have my foot on the pedal before it starts. i was pushing it in for longer than i thought it would take for the glow plugs to heat up and i didn't know if that had any effect

also, i found a small (soft rubber maybe) box about 3/4 by 3/4 with 4 wires coming out of it. is the temperature gauge im looking for? i think i located everything else the other day
thanks again for your help

DSBlack · 01-27-2007, 12:22 PM

a "loom" is just the wires that are wrapped together with eachother, usually in tape or the fancy black plastic stuff.
I do not see any way to build eneough presure to affect the filter. The lift pump only pushes about 5-7psi. The filter is between the lift, and injection (high pressure) pump.
And I think the box you are talking about is some type of relay. The sender you are looking for is tucked in behind the radiator hose. It will have 2 prongs on it, and be brass colored.

KevinIH73IDI · 01-27-2007, 07:44 PM

ok so i got a chance to look at everything tonight
i drew up a wiring diagram for the loom but i'm not sure where the wires actually go, just what color wires come from where. i'll scan that in and post it later but i think i'm missing the cold engine switch. there's 2 holes that lead to a while/red and red/green wire. it's one of the first that splits off of the loom from the GPC, along with the wires for the fuel filter. i saw the "little black box" that i mentioned before and it's somewhat of a clear soft plastic on top of what looks like a chip that plugs into 4 wires (red/yel red/grn blk blk/yel) i'm still not sure what that does and i'm only mentioning it because im not sure if it is not working and causing the problem.
hopefully this will give you some type of idea for now. my buddy has the same truck and he's on his way over now so i can check to see what that part is that im missing

cdnsarguy · 01-27-2007, 09:28 PM

Diesels wll cause massive amounts of vibration, ensure the seal is installed correctly when replacing fuel filters. Always hand tight, then use a filter tool for 1/2 turn more. Filter base/water drain are only hand tight and ensure oring is lubed.

KevinIH73IDI · 01-27-2007, 09:46 PM

I GOT IT!!!
that double-holed thing i was talking about is supposed to be plugged in to the top of the block.. maybe that was the temp sensor
so that works good, it runs smooth now, but it was smoking on the first start up.. hopefully that'll get better soon but if it doesn't i'll let you guys know
thanks again for all of your help!
kevin